m_jermyns build *motor in*
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m_jermyn
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Just checked out some more info you guys gave me.. Ie Ecu number should be 154..
Its not a super eta just a regular eta. I managed to peek down through the inlet manifold and I could just make out the numbers 200 on the head....
Still dont ecplain why it has 7 journals instead of 4.
Owell.
Mike
Its not a super eta just a regular eta. I managed to peek down through the inlet manifold and I could just make out the numbers 200 on the head....
Still dont ecplain why it has 7 journals instead of 4.
Owell.
Mike
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m_jermyn
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So after the little disappointment of finding my Eta was just a regular Eta and not a super eta I went to work on my cluster..
After looking at the carbon fiber inserts fort the clusters I soon came to the conclusion that they were way over priced, I decided to make my own.. I found a type of vinyl that replicates carbon fiber

Re attach the clear plastic cover..

I then traced out my template I mede before.. (took 4 attempts to get it right)

Added some chrome rings


Now all that is left is pull the old cluster out repair the odometer and swap the faces.
Mike
After looking at the carbon fiber inserts fort the clusters I soon came to the conclusion that they were way over priced, I decided to make my own.. I found a type of vinyl that replicates carbon fiber

Re attach the clear plastic cover..

I then traced out my template I mede before.. (took 4 attempts to get it right)

Added some chrome rings


Now all that is left is pull the old cluster out repair the odometer and swap the faces.
Mike
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m_jermyn
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Removed the old cluster from the car today and replaced the broken odometer gears..

as you can see the gears are tiny Old on left with new on right

Boring old cluster

Nice update cluster.. (Porn)

Now I have to test it in the car...
Mike

as you can see the gears are tiny Old on left with new on right

Boring old cluster

Nice update cluster.. (Porn)

Now I have to test it in the car...
Mike
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m_jermyn
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So I got a few little goodies today for my birthaday a few days late but they got here eventually.
A new gear knob, old one is really ratty and I wanted a new one but had to look period.

Short shifter. I actually ordered a different one to this and this is what showed up, interesting. Following this up.


Waiting for a few other bits and pieces for the shift linkages and then i will put it all in.
Mike
A new gear knob, old one is really ratty and I wanted a new one but had to look period.

Short shifter. I actually ordered a different one to this and this is what showed up, interesting. Following this up.


Waiting for a few other bits and pieces for the shift linkages and then i will put it all in.
Mike
- MillwallSE14
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excellent work mate your making great progress.
the wheels came out really well and looks much better with the new bumpers!
like that cluster too, well played
the wheels came out really well and looks much better with the new bumpers!
like that cluster too, well played
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m_jermyn
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Got some new parts today. The saches fan clutch arrived and so did my Genuine short shifter.. I sent the other heap of shit back and made them pay me back everything they owe me plus the cost of me returning it.
The fan clutch has arrived just in time as the weather here is remarkably hot for winter.. Last week we had a day that was 27. C. and every day this week has hit somewhere in the 20s. We should only be around 16-17 .C. for this time of the year. If I waited any longer getting this clutch the car would overheat just getting it out of the driveway.. Summer is going to be a steamer this year

I thought I would follow zone advice and get the 1.9 Z3 shifter but it wasnt available, I tried the E46 M3 shifter as it looks remarkably similar just a longer handle but they didnt have that either. I didnt want the Z3 M shifter as it looks to short but probably alot of fun. So I settled for the Euro E36 M3 shifter as it looks like its a tiny bit shorter in the throw then the Z3 1.9 but a tiny bit longer in the handle.
Am I the first on the Zone with this one?

I also go these bits and pieces last week, brand spanking tail light gaskets (no more leaks) all the shifting linkages to take out the sogginess in the lever, and also the little caps that go on top of the suspension struts.

Now im looking forward to getting it all together and rebuilding my entire shifter, linkages and everything.
The fan clutch has arrived just in time as the weather here is remarkably hot for winter.. Last week we had a day that was 27. C. and every day this week has hit somewhere in the 20s. We should only be around 16-17 .C. for this time of the year. If I waited any longer getting this clutch the car would overheat just getting it out of the driveway.. Summer is going to be a steamer this year

I thought I would follow zone advice and get the 1.9 Z3 shifter but it wasnt available, I tried the E46 M3 shifter as it looks remarkably similar just a longer handle but they didnt have that either. I didnt want the Z3 M shifter as it looks to short but probably alot of fun. So I settled for the Euro E36 M3 shifter as it looks like its a tiny bit shorter in the throw then the Z3 1.9 but a tiny bit longer in the handle.
Am I the first on the Zone with this one?

I also go these bits and pieces last week, brand spanking tail light gaskets (no more leaks) all the shifting linkages to take out the sogginess in the lever, and also the little caps that go on top of the suspension struts.

Now im looking forward to getting it all together and rebuilding my entire shifter, linkages and everything.
Very useful pic that. Looks like the e36 M3 one is the one I'm after then - same length of gearstick protruding into the car, but with a shorter throw.m_jermyn wrote:

"doughnuts - power braking in circles" Peterborough Evening Telegraph
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m_jermyn
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Wasted no time in fitting the viscous fan clutch today. All you need is three basic tools.
1. 32mm open ended spanner
2. clip remover or flat head screw driver
3. 3/8 drive ratchet with a 10mm socket

Start off by parking the car on a flat surface, pull on the handbrake and put it in gear. This locks the transmission and ensures the fan belt cant turn.
Start off by removing the clips on each side of the radiator cowling with the clip remover of flat head screw driver.
With the 32mm open ended spanner undo the viscous fan clutch, remember its a reverse thread so you are turning from right to left. It takes time to get it off as there is only enough room to turn the big 32mm nut one or two flats at a time.
Once you have undone the fan clutch lift the viscous fan along with the radiator cowling up out of the engine bay.

Lay the the fan on a flat work bench and undo the four 10mm bolts that hold the viscous fan to the fan clutch. They are very tight and you will need to be careful not to brake the fan blades off. Might be a good idea to grab a friend to help, one to hold down the fan and the other to crack and undo the bolts.

Once you have removed the clutch from the fan everything is a reverse from here. Do everything from here in reverse order.
Wash your hands put the tools away crack open a frothy and be proud that you just saved your self some money by doing it yourself. Wasnt that hard was it.
Should take about 1.5 hours Difficulty is about 3/10
Mike
1. 32mm open ended spanner
2. clip remover or flat head screw driver
3. 3/8 drive ratchet with a 10mm socket

Start off by parking the car on a flat surface, pull on the handbrake and put it in gear. This locks the transmission and ensures the fan belt cant turn.
Start off by removing the clips on each side of the radiator cowling with the clip remover of flat head screw driver.
With the 32mm open ended spanner undo the viscous fan clutch, remember its a reverse thread so you are turning from right to left. It takes time to get it off as there is only enough room to turn the big 32mm nut one or two flats at a time.
Once you have undone the fan clutch lift the viscous fan along with the radiator cowling up out of the engine bay.

Lay the the fan on a flat work bench and undo the four 10mm bolts that hold the viscous fan to the fan clutch. They are very tight and you will need to be careful not to brake the fan blades off. Might be a good idea to grab a friend to help, one to hold down the fan and the other to crack and undo the bolts.

Once you have removed the clutch from the fan everything is a reverse from here. Do everything from here in reverse order.
Wash your hands put the tools away crack open a frothy and be proud that you just saved your self some money by doing it yourself. Wasnt that hard was it.
Should take about 1.5 hours Difficulty is about 3/10
Mike
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m_jermyn
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Did a bit of cleaning under the car yesterday in preparation for the short shift, I hate working on dirty cars so before I do anything I thoroughly clean the area to be worked on. Keep my hands pretty.
Took some pics



I have also got all the part to rebuild the shift linkages, but after getting under the car it looks the the gearbox has to come out for that job. That will have to wait another day when I change the clutch.
Mike
Mike
Took some pics



I have also got all the part to rebuild the shift linkages, but after getting under the car it looks the the gearbox has to come out for that job. That will have to wait another day when I change the clutch.
Mike
Mike
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m_jermyn
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Picked up these little beauties today. BBS 14s with nearly new Nankangs.
I needed new tyres on the E30 as cornering in the wet at the moment is comical at best. The slightest movement of the right foot sees sideways action, although I absolutely enjoy driving through the door glass, the sensible part in my brain has been saying you need new tyres. It does not rain here much and when it does the roads are very slippery for a day or two until or the grime gets washed away.
Anyway I got these for $100 Aust or around 50GBP. About a 1/4 of the price of new tyres. Pretty happy with that.



In the coming weeks I will give them a refurb and make them new again.
Mike
I needed new tyres on the E30 as cornering in the wet at the moment is comical at best. The slightest movement of the right foot sees sideways action, although I absolutely enjoy driving through the door glass, the sensible part in my brain has been saying you need new tyres. It does not rain here much and when it does the roads are very slippery for a day or two until or the grime gets washed away.
Anyway I got these for $100 Aust or around 50GBP. About a 1/4 of the price of new tyres. Pretty happy with that.



In the coming weeks I will give them a refurb and make them new again.
Mike
- MillwallSE14
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nice wheels seem to be a bargain
get some pics with them on
get some pics with them on
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m_jermyn
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A little update.....
Sometime ago I bought a smashed e30 for some parts to complete my car and some odds and ends for my dads car. The main part of the car i wanted was the motor. A 2.7 Eta with only 180,000 kms on it.
So yesterday was the day I took its motor out... First time for me and not that hard really.
Cut of the radiator support or slam panel. It was bent real bad anyway . Make life a little easier to remove the lump too.

Everything disconnected starting to pull it out.

Its out 4.5 hours later Good time me think


Getting a good clean... I hate working on dirty stuff.

Placed on the tarp ready to be ripped apart

Job Done.... Now I just need to start the rebuild with all new bits and pieces... Brand new motor soon.
Mike
Sometime ago I bought a smashed e30 for some parts to complete my car and some odds and ends for my dads car. The main part of the car i wanted was the motor. A 2.7 Eta with only 180,000 kms on it.
So yesterday was the day I took its motor out... First time for me and not that hard really.
Cut of the radiator support or slam panel. It was bent real bad anyway . Make life a little easier to remove the lump too.

Everything disconnected starting to pull it out.

Its out 4.5 hours later Good time me think


Getting a good clean... I hate working on dirty stuff.

Placed on the tarp ready to be ripped apart

Job Done.... Now I just need to start the rebuild with all new bits and pieces... Brand new motor soon.
Mike
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Simon13
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you'll only want the knuckle which connects straight to the back of the box and a new output seal to sort it out it gearbox wise. Don't be surprised if the gearbox seal doesn't last long before it leaks again though!
I'm liking the distinct lack of rust on anything!
I'm liking the distinct lack of rust on anything!
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m_jermyn
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The gearbox is going in the bin, its a auto
Everything is getting rebuilt block stripped right down and made up with all new parts... and put into the chromie
The thongs, thats my mate all he did really was clean it with the gurney... and whine about oil dripping on the concrete.
Rust is not something we have issues with in E30s over here...
Mike
The thongs, thats my mate all he did really was clean it with the gurney... and whine about oil dripping on the concrete.
Rust is not something we have issues with in E30s over here...
Mike
Should pull the next one in an hour then now you have the list of things to disconnect before starting, if you jack the back of the car up for the pulling of the engine it'll aid slam panel space during removal.m_jermyn wrote:
Its out 4.5 hours later Good time me think
Parts for sale - http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 45#2733745
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tonybtonyb
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Your work looks great you don't work for a BMW main dealer lol 
They don't make bm's like this anymore!..They should.


Hi
Great work!. I'm from Canberra Australia and owned an 1988 Luxor beige 320i auto convertible.
I loved the Luxor Beige and found the colour very rare in Australia. I've never seen another E30 cab and in the 8 years i owned it only saw an E30 sedan in Luxor.
I now have a 91 E30 cab in Alpinweiss 2.
Is Luxor a rare colour in England?
Great work!. I'm from Canberra Australia and owned an 1988 Luxor beige 320i auto convertible.
I loved the Luxor Beige and found the colour very rare in Australia. I've never seen another E30 cab and in the 8 years i owned it only saw an E30 sedan in Luxor.
I now have a 91 E30 cab in Alpinweiss 2.
Is Luxor a rare colour in England?
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m_jermyn
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When I got the car I didnt like the colour much. but it had really grown on me now. Looks like the colour granny would of ordered it in
It is rare isnt it? I have maybe seen 2 others here in Sydney.
Mike
Mike
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m_jermyn
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Ok So parts came over xmas....
Pretty much everything you need to rebuild a motor to brand new.
Top end gasket set, Bottom end gasket set, Cylinder head bolt set, Valve eccentrics, Oil pump, Oil filter, Water pump, Thermostat, Distributer cap and rotor, temp sender, Fuel filter, Blue temp sender, Another water temp sender, Air filter, Gearbox imput shaft seal and timing belt kit...
I still need bearing but I have to measure the crank to work out what size.....

And finally got my magnaflow resonators to complete a full stainless exhaust...



Things are coming along..
Mike
Pretty much everything you need to rebuild a motor to brand new.
Top end gasket set, Bottom end gasket set, Cylinder head bolt set, Valve eccentrics, Oil pump, Oil filter, Water pump, Thermostat, Distributer cap and rotor, temp sender, Fuel filter, Blue temp sender, Another water temp sender, Air filter, Gearbox imput shaft seal and timing belt kit...
I still need bearing but I have to measure the crank to work out what size.....

And finally got my magnaflow resonators to complete a full stainless exhaust...



Things are coming along..
Mike
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m_jermyn
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Todays update... Got to stripping the donor engine pulling off head and auto gearbox..... I have taken plenty of pics along the way and now I have a few for you to look at and give some advice....
First off all how do I get the bloody torque converter off?? Look in the phtos below. There was 3 17mm bolts going through the some holes in the drive plate (thing the starter turns to crank over motor like the teeth on a flywheel) I have removed them in hoping it helps.. The bently manual says to jam a srew driver between the drive plate and torque converter and lever.. This isnt working..
Also look at the picture with the pistons.... The motor has eaten something hard and spat it out..
One more thing whats this build up on the valves?
The P/O didnt change the oil all that much did he?

Notice on piston 3 the little nick?



What can you tell me about this number?

How do I get this bloody torque converter off?

Whats this build up? Its a bit dirty and ugly or is this normal?



Next week I should have it all in pieces.... the crank & pistons will get balanced too
Mike
First off all how do I get the bloody torque converter off?? Look in the phtos below. There was 3 17mm bolts going through the some holes in the drive plate (thing the starter turns to crank over motor like the teeth on a flywheel) I have removed them in hoping it helps.. The bently manual says to jam a srew driver between the drive plate and torque converter and lever.. This isnt working..
Also look at the picture with the pistons.... The motor has eaten something hard and spat it out..
One more thing whats this build up on the valves?
The P/O didnt change the oil all that much did he?

Notice on piston 3 the little nick?



What can you tell me about this number?

How do I get this bloody torque converter off?

Whats this build up? Its a bit dirty and ugly or is this normal?



Next week I should have it all in pieces.... the crank & pistons will get balanced too
Mike
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Simon13
- The longest resto in the world !
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What is it an eta donk? Looks minging and a severe lack of oil changes!
torque converter needs a good kick, or wiggle, but now those 17's are out its just the butt plug on the end sitting in the back of the crank holding it on. Some minor violence will get it off
I reckon, whatever had got into the engine to do that means the head you have there isn't the Original one, as to make marks like that to a piston the head is going to fare worse. It looks like she was running a bit rich. The build up is carbon in the chambers, normally when running correctly its a bit more browny coloured in there. I don't recognice the numbers on that head. Is it a super eta? what size are the valves? 42mm inlet 36mm exhaust is stock 2.5 size
torque converter needs a good kick, or wiggle, but now those 17's are out its just the butt plug on the end sitting in the back of the crank holding it on. Some minor violence will get it off
I reckon, whatever had got into the engine to do that means the head you have there isn't the Original one, as to make marks like that to a piston the head is going to fare worse. It looks like she was running a bit rich. The build up is carbon in the chambers, normally when running correctly its a bit more browny coloured in there. I don't recognice the numbers on that head. Is it a super eta? what size are the valves? 42mm inlet 36mm exhaust is stock 2.5 size


















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