The sport I picked up yesterday on going work

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Speedtouch
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Mon Jun 23, 2014 10:50 pm

It's all part of the fun! It would be a boring world if every car was stock. :wink:
///M aurice
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h2ggv
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Thu Jun 26, 2014 8:38 pm

Little update been a bit busy with over stuff had a spare couple of hours today so give the rear speaker frames a spray over with plastic coat was getting sick of looking at the silver shine.


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Give the car a service change all the filters except the air filter and plugs will change that after the 25 inlet manifold arrives also going to do the tappets the pipe came thats needed to get rid of that bodge work.

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Fitted the new foam under the bonnet looks great new wipers and the fuel rubber filler thing :D
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Now just waiting on the inlet and door pockets get rid of them crazy door speakers and do the tappets
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h2ggv
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Mon Jul 07, 2014 7:40 pm

Done a few more jobs over the weekend changed the inlet to a proper 325i changed all the gaskets for new ones. Tappets i done last week so with a bit of luck thats all the engine work done

changed all the ht leads plugs dizzy cap and rotor arm i also damaged the crankshaft sensor well it was already damaged i just help it to its death. New one on the way just jointed the wires back up for now.

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Started on the trim inside the car
bigbird76
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Tue Jul 08, 2014 12:18 pm

Looks a nice car

Also nice Recaro Ls fronts and a m3 rear seat, Worth a few quid is your interior.

Leigh
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h2ggv
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Sun Jul 13, 2014 5:21 pm

bigbird76 wrote:Looks a nice car

Also nice Recaro Ls fronts and a m3 rear seat, Worth a few quid is your interior.

Leigh
Thanks
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h2ggv
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Sun Jul 13, 2014 5:25 pm

Been back out in car today 20 min running fine hard driving its fine soon as you get into slow driving 30mph or less when the engine is warmed up its back to running like a dog again.

must be something to do with when its warm any ideas. ???

Thought a lamba 02 sensor but this is not fitted due to having btb manifold would the car still need this sensor???

will try a temp sensor any other ideas anyone thanks
appletree
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Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:55 pm

Could you not get it on a rolling road and get some one to check the mapping of it? Might be cheaper in the long run rather than guessing and swapping random parts.
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Brianmoooore
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Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:21 pm

Measure the blue temp. sensor resistance with the engine stone cold and then at full running temp. AT THE ECU PLUG.
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h2ggv
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Sun Jul 13, 2014 10:54 pm

thanks guys will do the blue temp in morning the parts ie leads and stuff needing changing well on the way out. i suppose once i fix it will be great. adam the lad i got it off just wont reply to calls or texts he must have some idea but i suppose thats life.

will be going on the rolling road soon as i find somebody that could tackle it.
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h2ggv
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Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:30 pm

when going to test the blue temp sensor i got to the ecu and this must be the other ecu that is fitted. also this wire was left or fell out of this relay should i just plug it back in???

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Speedtouch
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Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:41 pm

Yes, try reconnecting the relay wire.
Last edited by Speedtouch on Mon Jul 14, 2014 3:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
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h2ggv
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Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:44 pm

Speedtouch wrote:Yes, try recoonecting the relay wire.
Im going to get to it in the end yet again guys thanks for all the help will test the blue sensor soon as i get the kids from school.
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h2ggv
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Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:32 pm

here are the results of the blue temp test

ecu end

cold 2.147 k ohms
warm 234.4 ohms

blue temp end

cold 2.148 k ohms
warm 235.8 ohms

take it this is working fine.
Speedtouch
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Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:04 pm

Yes, they appear OK, although the Wiki states that cold, the reading should be between 3,500-4,000 ohms; perhaps the warm weather has a significant effect on those though...

What was the effect of reconnecting the relay wire?
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
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Brianmoooore
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Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:35 pm

2.147k corresponds to a temp. of just over 30 degrees celcius. That's a fair bit warmer than it's been around here.
235 ohms equates to about 91 degrees celcius, which is possible if the engine thermostat is rated at that or above.
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h2ggv
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 9:02 am

Thanks guys im about to go give it test run 101.

spoke to evolve who done the map in the first place well the new company said aint touched a e30n for about 5 years so thats a no go.

next option is circuit motors phoned them waiting on a call back.

last option is replace all the ecu and afm new harness new fuel rail injectors ect ect im understanding them it doesnt look a hard job.

only probs i have with this option the bhp is going to go well down the money thats been spent on the car is about 3k just in mapping not including injectors cam ect ect. and would it run right still seems it got a 2.8 crank in it
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h2ggv
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 1:37 pm

Well test run 101 was successful

After plugging the wire in off the relay that is spliced out the ecu loom took the car out.

Run 1. Drove the car for a good 40 min of town driving no stopping foot down in places waiting for the pause but to my relief ran like a champ.

Run 2. Waited a hour after the first run again drove for 40 min this time went on to duel carriage way had the car going and i mean going then back into town no hesitation at all.

Run 3. Done a mixture of both fast and slow and the car is running perfect popped to the shops its running great.

The weather is boiling here today so the warm factor must be out the window hope this keeps going the way it is.

If i was to say anything its ticking over a bit lumpy like its low on revs could this be due to the cam. I was thinking adjusting the throttle cable a little or is that a no no it is a bit slack.????

Here are a few pics of the car after its first proper wash since i picked the car up.


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mattIS
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 1:43 pm

ahh the turned front wheel look,classic 8)
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Brianmoooore
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 2:01 pm

You adjust the throttle cable to give WOT with your foot on the floor, rather than to eliminate slack in the cable. It's important that the linkage isn't under strain when the pedal is right down.
If the stop under the pedal and the cable length are adjusted properly, the slack in the cable will be eliminated with the pedal up, and the throttle butterfly will be fully open with it down.
Speedtouch
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 2:05 pm

Good to hear you got it sorted by reconnecting the relay. :) My guess is it powers up the Dastek Unichip piggyback ECU...

I would suggest you disconnect the battery or ECU, leave it for an hour or so to reset it, reconnect and let it idle for at least 10 minutes to enable base idle settings to be learnt, switch off, then take it for a drive throughout the rev range.

This ensures full data transfer from the EPROM(s) to the processor.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
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h2ggv
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 2:10 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:You adjust the throttle cable to give WOT with your foot on the floor, rather than to eliminate slack in the cable. It's important that the linkage isn't under strain when the pedal is right down.
If the stop under the pedal and the cable length are adjusted properly, the slack in the cable will be eliminated with the pedal up, and the throttle butterfly will be fully open with it down.
I was just going to do it so it ticks over better as its ticking over lumpy if you sit in the car take the revs to just under 1000rpm it runs spot on.

So i was going to adjust the cable to get it to a good point on tick over if that makes any sense
Speedtouch
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 2:10 pm

See my previous post regarding the idle. :wink:
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
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h2ggv
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Tue Jul 15, 2014 2:13 pm

Speedtouch wrote:Good to hear you got it sorted by reconnecting the relay. :) My guess is it powers up the Dastek Unichip piggyback ECU...

I would suggest you disconnect the battery or ECU, leave it for an hour or so to reset it, reconnect and let it idle for at least 10 minutes to enable base idle settings to be learnt, switch off, then take it for a drive throughout the rev range.

This ensures full data transfer from the EPROM(s) to the processor.
Thanks i will give that a go now just hope it stays like this now so i can start to enjoy the car.

It has some power over my last e30 sport i sold last year wish i didn't but i suppose that's life. This one handles like its on rails
German-Whips
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Sat Jul 26, 2014 2:20 pm

h2ggv wrote:
Brianmoooore wrote:You adjust the throttle cable to give WOT with your foot on the floor, rather than to eliminate slack in the cable. It's important that the linkage isn't under strain when the pedal is right down.
If the stop under the pedal and the cable length are adjusted properly, the slack in the cable will be eliminated with the pedal up, and the throttle butterfly will be fully open with it down.
I was just going to do it so it ticks over better as its ticking over lumpy if you sit in the car take the revs to just under 1000rpm it runs spot on.

So i was going to adjust the cable to get it to a good point on tick over if that makes any sense
Make sure when you do this that you don't wind it up too high otherwise the TPS won't know when the car is meant to be idling.

Check to see that the TPS is working by hearing a small "click" when you open the throttle off it's stop. A quick check of the TPS connector for continuity also just to make sure everything's in order wouldn't do any harm.

Also a quick clean of the ICV with carb cleaner could help with a rough idle.
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h2ggv
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Fri Aug 01, 2014 2:40 pm

German-Whips wrote:
h2ggv wrote:
Brianmoooore wrote:You adjust the throttle cable to give WOT with your foot on the floor, rather than to eliminate slack in the cable. It's important that the linkage isn't under strain when the pedal is right down.
If the stop under the pedal and the cable length are adjusted properly, the slack in the cable will be eliminated with the pedal up, and the throttle butterfly will be fully open with it down.
I was just going to do it so it ticks over better as its ticking over lumpy if you sit in the car take the revs to just under 1000rpm it runs spot on.

So i was going to adjust the cable to get it to a good point on tick over if that makes any sense
Make sure when you do this that you don't wind it up too high otherwise the TPS won't know when the car is meant to be idling.

Check to see that the TPS is working by hearing a small "click" when you open the throttle off it's stop. A quick check of the TPS connector for continuity also just to make sure everything's in order wouldn't do any harm.

Also a quick clean of the ICV with carb cleaner could help with a rough idle.
Cheers will have a go over the weekend thanks
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h2ggv
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Thu Aug 07, 2014 4:49 pm

After all the chew i have had with the lumpy tick over yesterday the cps sensor went being 3 weeks old i was shocked.

Today i fitted a bmw used one and a new plastic tube of throttle cable adjusted it as the old tube was goosed. Its like a new car the tick over is spot on for the 2.8 cam and the mapping thats been done. The power in the car is something eles now its going even faster and pulling stronger.

Im over the moon getting it valeted in morning ready to use at the weekend

more pics to follow

:D :D :D :D :D
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Thu Aug 07, 2014 5:37 pm

good to hear that the crank sensor sorted it out ,ecp ones must be really shit if it only lasted 3 weeks 8O
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Thu Aug 07, 2014 6:16 pm

Great news and good work there
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