The PWRacing Garage in Baksa, Hungary
Jay's E30 328i M52
Moderator: martauto
The PWRacing Garage in Baksa, Hungary
After the engine was in the car and I knew how much the extra weight is on the front axle, I've bought a set of FK AKX 60/40 springs, but I've found the back end still too high, so I sold the springs and bought a set of 60/60 Lowtec's instead. These have the perfect height I wanted, but unfortunately the rear springs are too soft, which became a problem when I fitted wider rear wheels as You'll see later.
Before You ask I didn't change the front struts to 51mm, because I can't see a single reason why I should. They are even heavier than the 45mm ones and as far as I can see they are completely unnecessary.
I Have no pictures with original 14" wheels and the lowering spring fitted, so it's difficult to show the difference, I have only this:
Before You ask I didn't change the front struts to 51mm, because I can't see a single reason why I should. They are even heavier than the 45mm ones and as far as I can see they are completely unnecessary.
I Have no pictures with original 14" wheels and the lowering spring fitted, so it's difficult to show the difference, I have only this:
So after I took care about all the brakes, springs, and fitted a set of perfect condition second hand Bilstein B8 dampers, it was time to look for new wheels.
First set I've bought for cheap was Borbet A.
Size 9x16" ET15 all four.
On the front I had to use hubcentric 10mm spacers because the inner side of the wheels where touching the front strut.
On the rear I could only get 4x108 wheels, so I had to install them with 20mm wide hubcentric adapters reducing the overall offset to -5mm
It looked like this:
The Alpina Emblems on the bonnet and trunk are the first steps of my future plan, turning the looks and interior of the car completely to Alpina look, including front spoiler, larger trunk spoiler, front and side decals, wooden interior inlets, floormats etc. I love Alpina cars, so when I finish with all the mayor modifications on the car, I'll convert the whole car insode and outside to Alpina look except for iX fenders of course.
First set I've bought for cheap was Borbet A.
Size 9x16" ET15 all four.
On the front I had to use hubcentric 10mm spacers because the inner side of the wheels where touching the front strut.
On the rear I could only get 4x108 wheels, so I had to install them with 20mm wide hubcentric adapters reducing the overall offset to -5mm
It looked like this:
The Alpina Emblems on the bonnet and trunk are the first steps of my future plan, turning the looks and interior of the car completely to Alpina look, including front spoiler, larger trunk spoiler, front and side decals, wooden interior inlets, floormats etc. I love Alpina cars, so when I finish with all the mayor modifications on the car, I'll convert the whole car insode and outside to Alpina look except for iX fenders of course.
After I've started using the car with the wide wheels it immediately became clear that the rear springs are too soft, but it wasn't the first thing I took care of. I started to modify the rear fenders a little bit first. Sadly it wasn't enough but was worth trying.
I did not change the rear springs since then by the way, because I had bigger problems back then:
As summer and the temperatures above 30C degrees came, the overheating of the front brakes became really annoying and probably dangerous in unexperienced hands, so the 16"s had to go and with adding more power in mind it was definitely time for larger brakes and some 17"s.
I always wanted 5x120 hubs, so I started reading about lots and lots of conversions and began collecting the necessary parts.
Let's talk about the rear first.
Most people using E36 compact (318ti or 323ti because these have disc brakes) rear wishbones, I was also looking for these but I found a complete reconditioned Z3 rear axle instead so I've bought it, changed all the bushes, sanded prepared and refurbished everything as seen in pictures:
For people who are thinking on the same conversion:
The Compact and Z3 rear axles are completely "plug and play" they"ll fit easily to E30s. The anti roll bar however has to be an E30 part, because the Z3 and compact bars are not straight in the middle, they have a small "U" shape turn which make them hit the top of the E30 large house diffs.
The difference between compact and Z3 wishbones are that the compact ones are a bit wider, so You"ll need wheels with bigger offset. For example you can fit 10x17" ET20 wheels easily onto Z3 wishbones, and still have about 5mm space on the inside, but I guess they won't fit on the compact parts without ca 5mm spacers or sanding down a bit from the wishbone itself. I didn't try this by the way maybe they'll fit but only very closely I think.
As summer and the temperatures above 30C degrees came, the overheating of the front brakes became really annoying and probably dangerous in unexperienced hands, so the 16"s had to go and with adding more power in mind it was definitely time for larger brakes and some 17"s.
I always wanted 5x120 hubs, so I started reading about lots and lots of conversions and began collecting the necessary parts.
Let's talk about the rear first.
Most people using E36 compact (318ti or 323ti because these have disc brakes) rear wishbones, I was also looking for these but I found a complete reconditioned Z3 rear axle instead so I've bought it, changed all the bushes, sanded prepared and refurbished everything as seen in pictures:
For people who are thinking on the same conversion:
The Compact and Z3 rear axles are completely "plug and play" they"ll fit easily to E30s. The anti roll bar however has to be an E30 part, because the Z3 and compact bars are not straight in the middle, they have a small "U" shape turn which make them hit the top of the E30 large house diffs.
The difference between compact and Z3 wishbones are that the compact ones are a bit wider, so You"ll need wheels with bigger offset. For example you can fit 10x17" ET20 wheels easily onto Z3 wishbones, and still have about 5mm space on the inside, but I guess they won't fit on the compact parts without ca 5mm spacers or sanding down a bit from the wishbone itself. I didn't try this by the way maybe they'll fit but only very closely I think.
Let's see the front.
What I'll write here was my first attempt to convert the front to 5x120, don't try the same because still there are some unsolved issues though, so I don't recommed the same, but I didn't know that back then of course.
So what I did was fit the front hubs and 286mm ventilated brakes of an E36 328i. The problem with these were that you have to fit quite a thick spacer under the wheelhub or the brake disc otherwise the discs are touching the steering rod quite badly.
The problem with adding more and more spacers is the faster wearing of front wheel hubs and the need of using quite large offset wheels on the front.
I heard about fitting the E46 330i/330d front discs with the same calipers could work, but I haven't tried that jet, I'm still running at the moment with spacers under the brake discs. I'll try out something else later.
What I'll write here was my first attempt to convert the front to 5x120, don't try the same because still there are some unsolved issues though, so I don't recommed the same, but I didn't know that back then of course.
So what I did was fit the front hubs and 286mm ventilated brakes of an E36 328i. The problem with these were that you have to fit quite a thick spacer under the wheelhub or the brake disc otherwise the discs are touching the steering rod quite badly.
The problem with adding more and more spacers is the faster wearing of front wheel hubs and the need of using quite large offset wheels on the front.
I heard about fitting the E46 330i/330d front discs with the same calipers could work, but I haven't tried that jet, I'm still running at the moment with spacers under the brake discs. I'll try out something else later.
For the brake master cylinder I'm currently using an original E30 part, which does the job, but you have to push the brake pedal far down to have the right amount of fluid delivered to the calipers.
For brakes over 300mm the ideal solution is the 25,4mm E32 750i or E34 540i (these are the same as I know) master cylinder. BMW part no.:34 32 1 156 578
What I'll try to fit instead as an experiment, a 23,81mm E28 master cylinder, because I've never read about anyone using it and it seems easy for me. I'll write my experiences about that after tried.
For both of these parts You'll neet a T-piece if your car does not have an ABS as standard. part no.: 34 34 1 111 435
For brakes over 300mm the ideal solution is the 25,4mm E32 750i or E34 540i (these are the same as I know) master cylinder. BMW part no.:34 32 1 156 578
What I'll try to fit instead as an experiment, a 23,81mm E28 master cylinder, because I've never read about anyone using it and it seems easy for me. I'll write my experiences about that after tried.
For both of these parts You'll neet a T-piece if your car does not have an ABS as standard. part no.: 34 34 1 111 435
Before fitting the new suspension and brake parts to the car I decided to install a wide 325iX fender and side skirt set, alongside with original BMW front wings, because I didn't like the gaps around the aftermarket ones.
At the same time I got rid of the small rust appeared on the front right door and also painted the front lip to match the iX sideskirts better.
On the rear fenders I was cheating a little bit though: as you could see, the car itself is a pre-facelift model, which has wider but taller rear fenders. The iX plastic fenders however are from a facelift model, so they are wider too. Fitting the wider plastic fenders to the wider wings mean the widest possible solution you can make using original E30 parts! These were planned originally to fit the 9x16 A-Borbets but things have changed since then...
Here's the result:
At the same time I got rid of the small rust appeared on the front right door and also painted the front lip to match the iX sideskirts better.
On the rear fenders I was cheating a little bit though: as you could see, the car itself is a pre-facelift model, which has wider but taller rear fenders. The iX plastic fenders however are from a facelift model, so they are wider too. Fitting the wider plastic fenders to the wider wings mean the widest possible solution you can make using original E30 parts! These were planned originally to fit the 9x16 A-Borbets but things have changed since then...
Here's the result:
So the wheels, there were quite a lot I've tried since now, but let's start with the first set.
It was a set of 8x17" Et38 Artec Edition L with 215/40/17.
I Bought them for really cheap so I gave them a try.
It was a set of 8x17" Et38 Artec Edition L with 215/40/17.
I Bought them for really cheap so I gave them a try.
Maybe You've spotted that on some of the pictores below the front end of the car was sitting a bit too high, that's because at that moment the car had no engine inside but that's another story, I'm not always following the actual timeline with the pictures, things are more complicated as always
So after I had the brakes fitted the car became real fun to drive! I have also payed for an engine remap, and ended as a result with 211bhp.
After I've been using the car like that for couple of months the engine again has blown the head gasket. Actually as we figured out by then I bought the engine with head problems but there were no obvious signs for us.
First problem was the first start every day. It became harder and harder, eveytime, after just one or a half crank turns, tha starter motor began to struggle. So first I bought a reconditioned starter motor, than another one too. After having problems with the second one too and also having noticed the water that's missing it all became clear. One of the cylinders are getting full of water after long stops, so the head gasket is blown.
I bought the new gasket, dismantled the engine and took the head to a pressure-test, where sadly it failed completely. The whole head was full with small hairline fractures.
I bought an other head and began straight away with a pressure test and it also failed. Luckily the seller bought it back immediately, but I was still hunting a new head like crazy, but at the time no one wanted to sell an M50 in parts...
So after I had the brakes fitted the car became real fun to drive! I have also payed for an engine remap, and ended as a result with 211bhp.
After I've been using the car like that for couple of months the engine again has blown the head gasket. Actually as we figured out by then I bought the engine with head problems but there were no obvious signs for us.
First problem was the first start every day. It became harder and harder, eveytime, after just one or a half crank turns, tha starter motor began to struggle. So first I bought a reconditioned starter motor, than another one too. After having problems with the second one too and also having noticed the water that's missing it all became clear. One of the cylinders are getting full of water after long stops, so the head gasket is blown.
I bought the new gasket, dismantled the engine and took the head to a pressure-test, where sadly it failed completely. The whole head was full with small hairline fractures.
I bought an other head and began straight away with a pressure test and it also failed. Luckily the seller bought it back immediately, but I was still hunting a new head like crazy, but at the time no one wanted to sell an M50 in parts...
Last edited by Jay350i on Wed Mar 05, 2014 6:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
So if I have to buy a complete engine, let's look around maybe we can figure out some better solution
After reading a lot about it, I decided to build an M50-M52 "hybrid". Using the lighter engine block of an M52B28 and everything else from the old M50TUB25.
First I bought an engine from a 1997 E39 528i. It was an early age single Vanos M52B28 2800cm3 193bhp.
The engine had a low mileage, only 80000 genuine miles. We fitted all the stuff from the old engine, including oil pan and parts, engine mountings, air intake, all the sensors, cable harness, AFM, green fuel injectors, Bosch "....413" ECU and everything else...
The result is a 28kg lighter 2800cm3 engine, with the larger M50 air intake, and the simple and easily programmable M50ecu, no EWS, only one lambda sensor in the exhaust... Simple, light, clever
I also removed the cooling fan and replaced it with a 16" Spal electric fan installed in fron of the radiator, because this takes less power from the crank, and also because I wanted to install a new radiator, this time a thicker one from E36 325tds.
I ordered a remap for the given specifications from the same guy who made it for the 2,5l and as a result the engine was producing 236,2Bhp on crank! Although I have to say, that the first chip was not perfect, we simply could not get the idle smooth enough with the pink 28i fuel injectors, but after fitting a new pressure regulator and a 6,5bar Motorsport fuel pump, the green 25i fuel injectors became more than enough. They are running with a maximal usage of 88% of capacity, and the engine is reving up to 7200rpm. I don't have the bhp specs for the last remap though. At least the idle is smooth as standard, and the fuel consumption is well let's say satisfying for a 2,8 between 30 and 15 mpg depending on the weight of my right foot
After reading a lot about it, I decided to build an M50-M52 "hybrid". Using the lighter engine block of an M52B28 and everything else from the old M50TUB25.
First I bought an engine from a 1997 E39 528i. It was an early age single Vanos M52B28 2800cm3 193bhp.
The engine had a low mileage, only 80000 genuine miles. We fitted all the stuff from the old engine, including oil pan and parts, engine mountings, air intake, all the sensors, cable harness, AFM, green fuel injectors, Bosch "....413" ECU and everything else...
The result is a 28kg lighter 2800cm3 engine, with the larger M50 air intake, and the simple and easily programmable M50ecu, no EWS, only one lambda sensor in the exhaust... Simple, light, clever
I also removed the cooling fan and replaced it with a 16" Spal electric fan installed in fron of the radiator, because this takes less power from the crank, and also because I wanted to install a new radiator, this time a thicker one from E36 325tds.
I ordered a remap for the given specifications from the same guy who made it for the 2,5l and as a result the engine was producing 236,2Bhp on crank! Although I have to say, that the first chip was not perfect, we simply could not get the idle smooth enough with the pink 28i fuel injectors, but after fitting a new pressure regulator and a 6,5bar Motorsport fuel pump, the green 25i fuel injectors became more than enough. They are running with a maximal usage of 88% of capacity, and the engine is reving up to 7200rpm. I don't have the bhp specs for the last remap though. At least the idle is smooth as standard, and the fuel consumption is well let's say satisfying for a 2,8
between 30 and 15 mpg depending on the weight of my right foot Never mateDanThe wrote:When do you fit an S54 again?
Next will be M60 or M62.
S54 just like the V12 (and the M50as well by the way) makes the E30 too much nose heavy. I experienced it through the years, that the lighter you make the front end of an E30, the better the handling becomes
I'm still ahead in time with the project and the next I'm planning is a V8 from the first ones BMW produced. No vanos no EWS no alusil cylinders, no bullshit. I'd like to mount it as far to the rear as possible, with modifying firewall, making enough space for a mechanical fan and putting the weight as far to the rear as possible.
S54 is a masterpiece by the way I loved the sound and the response of it but I still think it is just not good for a nose heavy E30, because you have trouble putting the power down.
The new engine was put together in the PWracing Hungary workshop by Kovács "Powered" Ãakos, the same guy who made Nino Karotta's VQ35 engined Datsun 260z "Aardvark" Drift Car, which won the Speedhunters Builder of the year award in 2012.
The two car's were actually built at the same time together
The two car's were actually built at the same time together
Last edited by Jay350i on Tue Mar 04, 2014 4:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
So as I wrote before, I tried many wheels, only one short-lived set was the Artec. I sold it because the offset was too big and I don't fancy using that big spacers, and also the weight of each wheel with the tires fitted was 19,1kg!
I changed to Aez Radon 8x17" ET15 using the same tires as before. These were only 14,8kg each with tires fitted!
Here they are:
I changed to Aez Radon 8x17" ET15 using the same tires as before. These were only 14,8kg each with tires fitted!
Here they are:
I'm constantly trying to improve the car of course, so lots of small things were modified or replaced in the past couple months.
I got an E34 air filter house fitted, replaced the exhaust lambda sensor twice but still not good, I'm using the car with it's connector plugged out, because it makes the engine run on weak fuel, except idle or full throttle.
As I write before, I removed the cooling fan, but I recently decided to put it back again. I tried the old fan but it couldn't fit from the thicker radiator so after reading lot of threads about it, I bought a Range Rover P38 2,5TDE fan which fits perfectly to M50/M52.
Last summer sadly the car caught fire because of electrical reasons. We could not figure out what was actually causing the fire because the whole cable harness in the engine bay melted together, so did the intake manifold and the plastic cap of the alternator. The problem was somewhere inside the cable harness, maybe some unsealed cables touched together, because the fire started right underneath the air intake.
Luckily we did catch the fire in time, and rebuilt the whole engine bay.
The car was fitted with brand new cable harness, also some of the sensors were replaced with brand new ones (cam and crank position sensors, throttle position sensor) also replaced idle motor, all, I mean ALL of the fuel pipes, water hoses, vacuum pipes, oil filter house gaskets, valve cover gasket, cylinder head gasket and bolts, fuel filter, fan belts and leaders, alternator, air intake gaskets, fuel injector O-rings, also replaced 2 fuel injectors because dripping, AFM, the ECU itself was reconditioned by a specialist, but fitted of course with the remapped chip the list is endless so I don't continue now.
Basically everything under the hood is brand new or very low mileage secong hand original BMW part. This is the key for reliability.
There were couple of changes outside the engine bay as well, such as the front part of the exhaust, which was originally two universal gas-fastener tubes, now the whole front end is from E36 325i including the X-pipe for the lambda sensor. The rear end is a Remus 320is/M3 silencer, fitted like stock parts on original mounting points. The whole exhaust is removable and repeirable now just like factory ones.
Also in the interior the whole heater motor was disassembled, cleaned, disinfectated and after a revision put back together again. A manual switch and an indicator LED for the electric fan is installed, auto switch is on 88degrees. It's working together nicely with the mechanic fan, the electric one only switches on while the car is standing still for longer time. The needle is stuck to the middle as it should be. We replaced the code stecker in the instrument cluster so its showing the correct revs and also the econometer is working properly in the tacho now.
I still have the Business CD RDS but I bought a new MP3 USB AUX whatever stereo instead, I don't really care about car stereo it's not my business, I'm rather listening to the engine, all I was looking for was a modern one which has the same orange light colour as the E30 interior switches, and a Bluetooth connection for smartphones. Found one that does the job, that's all
Speakers are replaced by the way, they are two route JBL ones, fitted to the original places, no signs of non-originality at all, except for cleaner sound.
I got an E34 air filter house fitted, replaced the exhaust lambda sensor twice but still not good, I'm using the car with it's connector plugged out, because it makes the engine run on weak fuel, except idle or full throttle.
As I write before, I removed the cooling fan, but I recently decided to put it back again. I tried the old fan but it couldn't fit from the thicker radiator so after reading lot of threads about it, I bought a Range Rover P38 2,5TDE fan which fits perfectly to M50/M52.
Last summer sadly the car caught fire because of electrical reasons. We could not figure out what was actually causing the fire because the whole cable harness in the engine bay melted together, so did the intake manifold and the plastic cap of the alternator. The problem was somewhere inside the cable harness, maybe some unsealed cables touched together, because the fire started right underneath the air intake.
Luckily we did catch the fire in time, and rebuilt the whole engine bay.
The car was fitted with brand new cable harness, also some of the sensors were replaced with brand new ones (cam and crank position sensors, throttle position sensor) also replaced idle motor, all, I mean ALL of the fuel pipes, water hoses, vacuum pipes, oil filter house gaskets, valve cover gasket, cylinder head gasket and bolts, fuel filter, fan belts and leaders, alternator, air intake gaskets, fuel injector O-rings, also replaced 2 fuel injectors because dripping, AFM, the ECU itself was reconditioned by a specialist, but fitted of course with the remapped chip the list is endless so I don't continue now.
Basically everything under the hood is brand new or very low mileage secong hand original BMW part. This is the key for reliability.
There were couple of changes outside the engine bay as well, such as the front part of the exhaust, which was originally two universal gas-fastener tubes, now the whole front end is from E36 325i including the X-pipe for the lambda sensor. The rear end is a Remus 320is/M3 silencer, fitted like stock parts on original mounting points. The whole exhaust is removable and repeirable now just like factory ones.
Also in the interior the whole heater motor was disassembled, cleaned, disinfectated and after a revision put back together again. A manual switch and an indicator LED for the electric fan is installed, auto switch is on 88degrees. It's working together nicely with the mechanic fan, the electric one only switches on while the car is standing still for longer time. The needle is stuck to the middle as it should be. We replaced the code stecker in the instrument cluster so its showing the correct revs and also the econometer is working properly in the tacho now.
I still have the Business CD RDS but I bought a new MP3 USB AUX whatever stereo instead, I don't really care about car stereo it's not my business, I'm rather listening to the engine, all I was looking for was a modern one which has the same orange light colour as the E30 interior switches, and a Bluetooth connection for smartphones. Found one that does the job, that's all
Speakers are replaced by the way, they are two route JBL ones, fitted to the original places, no signs of non-originality at all, except for cleaner sound.
Last edited by Jay350i on Tue Mar 04, 2014 4:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
After I've written about everything let's get back to the wheels.
I sold the AEZ wheels, because I found out that two of them were repaired (welded) before, and - you can call me stupid for that - I don't trust repaired wheels specially when my car is able to do 260km/h and sometimes it does, for example when I'm travelling from Bristol to Hungary all across Germany with non restricted autobahns, fully loaded with stupid Audi and Merc owners who like to be beaten
So after a long search I finally fall in love with these:
Borbet B
8,5x17" 215/40/17 in front
10x17" 245/35/17 in rear.
And basically this is where we are with the project now, in the present.
I sold the AEZ wheels, because I found out that two of them were repaired (welded) before, and - you can call me stupid for that - I don't trust repaired wheels specially when my car is able to do 260km/h and sometimes it does, for example when I'm travelling from Bristol to Hungary all across Germany with non restricted autobahns, fully loaded with stupid Audi and Merc owners who like to be beaten
So after a long search I finally fall in love with these:
Borbet B
8,5x17" 215/40/17 in front
10x17" 245/35/17 in rear.
And basically this is where we are with the project now, in the present.
Last edited by Jay350i on Tue Mar 04, 2014 4:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
Thank You!E30Kop wrote:WOW this build is epic. I take my hat off to you for saving this one
Could be...jonb wrote:Jay350i
I'm fairly sure you live on the same road as me in Bradley Stoke. I've seen your car a lot, but without the borbets fitted in the picture.
You can hear it easier, because I always lose my patience after 6-7speedbumps and turn into the street sideaways
What I did not mentioned is the rarity of a Hungarian AA-plate on a German car.
The format of the Hungarian license plates is very simple. Basically 3 letters and 3 numbers (like ABC-123) which do not contain any information at all, only you could guess the date it had been issued, because it started from AAA-000 and it goes on in an alphabetical and numerical order. (Except for some special combinations which belong to Police cars, taxis, ambulance, etc.)
This actual format started in 1986. Before that the format was AB-1234, but they've ran out of plates. The plate of this car was issued in June 1986, so the car began it's life in Hungary right from the start.
The thing is, that Hungary was a communistic country until 1989. This means that you could not buy anything, especially cars from "outside", only from Russia, east Germany and some other east european countries.
Actually You needed very good North European connections and lot of money to afford a modern car at that time. I also have the original purchase bill for the car from 1986, when it did cost 1,150,000 Hungarian Forints (HUF), just to help compare, at the same time a Lada 2105, one of the time's most famous family cars in Hungary cost 130,000 HUF only! You could buy almost 9 Ladas for the price of my E30 back then! The value and the rarity of a registered hungarian E30 at that time in the communism was like cruising around today in Britain with a Rolls Royce Phantom!
The format of the Hungarian license plates is very simple. Basically 3 letters and 3 numbers (like ABC-123) which do not contain any information at all, only you could guess the date it had been issued, because it started from AAA-000 and it goes on in an alphabetical and numerical order. (Except for some special combinations which belong to Police cars, taxis, ambulance, etc.)
This actual format started in 1986. Before that the format was AB-1234, but they've ran out of plates. The plate of this car was issued in June 1986, so the car began it's life in Hungary right from the start.
The thing is, that Hungary was a communistic country until 1989. This means that you could not buy anything, especially cars from "outside", only from Russia, east Germany and some other east european countries.
Actually You needed very good North European connections and lot of money to afford a modern car at that time. I also have the original purchase bill for the car from 1986, when it did cost 1,150,000 Hungarian Forints (HUF), just to help compare, at the same time a Lada 2105, one of the time's most famous family cars in Hungary cost 130,000 HUF only! You could buy almost 9 Ladas for the price of my E30 back then! The value and the rarity of a registered hungarian E30 at that time in the communism was like cruising around today in Britain with a Rolls Royce Phantom!
Today I've bought a pair of V-maxx stiffer, adjustable rear springs because at the actual state the car can carry max 3 person without the back wheels touching the plastic fenders.
Also a problem accured with the crank ventilation, yesterday the car started to produce a lot of smoke while engine braking but only then, and I don't really understand what's going on, because the engine is in good condition, pistonrings as well as valve stem simmerings...
Any suggestions?
Also a problem accured with the crank ventilation, yesterday the car started to produce a lot of smoke while engine braking but only then, and I don't really understand what's going on, because the engine is in good condition, pistonrings as well as valve stem simmerings...
Any suggestions?