First service on 1985 320i!

[Harrylechat]

Hi,

Let's be straight here, I am not a mechanic! I bought a 1985 320i Baur cabriolet in September 2004 from the proverbial little old lady, it's got a genuine 55,000 miles and has been serviced every year. It's been in store all winter, just coming out for a twice-weekly 10-15 mile drive in dry weather.

I am 100% sure that the previous owner never ever used any lead replacement products. The engine starts first time and runs smoothly, there is just a hint of tappet noise and no smoke, overheating or pinking. Do I need to get the valve seats "sorted" and should I get the tappets reset - if this sounds knowledgeable it's not, I'm just repeating expressions I've picked up from reading around the Net.

I want to use the car regularly in the summer but was shocked by BMWs service charges for what I thought were simple enough jobs. My idea was to start from fresh with an oil change, brake fluid change, new plugs, rotor arm, points, distributer cap and timing belt and alternator belt. BMW want around Ԛ£600 just to look at these jobs which is more than some complete E30s sell for! Is there any reason why a competent local mechanic couldn't do as good a job?

Are there any other parts that I ought to get changed (brakes seem fine) and can anyone apart from BMW deal with the valve seats/resetting tappets if it's advisable to get it done. Should I be buying one of the service indicator reset tools on eBay?!

FINALLY for now - do I need to be using a lead replacement product and if so how often?

I did once try to post some photos of the car if anyone wants to see them I'll try again.

I really appreciate any advice anyone can give - I forgot to mention that I live in France so I need to be clear in my mind what I'm talking about before I go the garage or I'll either look like a pratt, get ripped off or both!

Cheers,

Andrew

[Brianmoooore]

Your ideas for servicing seem about right. Change the clutch fluid and steering fluid as well, and check/adjust the tappets. Gearbox and diff oil wouldn't hurt as well.
Get yourself a DIY workshop manual ( I've seen an excellent French manual available in Auchan, IIRC).
55.000 miles is barely run in for an M20 engine: they should do 200,000 miles with no issues at all.
As for the fuel, I would run it on unleaded and see what happens. My guess is it will be fine. If it does eventually fail, and that will be in many tens of thousands of miles time, then it will be simple enough to replace the head with a newer second hand one.

[Borderbmw]

Hi Andrew, there is no reason at all why a good local garage cant carry out the work for probably 1/2 - 2/3rds cost of the main dealer,or if you feel confident why not do the plugs,leads,filters etc yourself and just get then to do the timing belt if you dont feel you can manage it? Just might save you a few euro's(did i read that right,you're in france?)

[Harrylechat]

HI,

All good advice so far, I'll try Auchan for the manual. I have got the Haines "bible" of course but although they're very good on most things they have a glaring oversight - they don't list the French-English vocabulary!

I'd be quite happy to change the plugs myself as long as I'm right that they just screw in/out or will I need to set the gaps? Similarly an oil and filter change is hardly rocket science although by the time I've paid to dispose of the oil and paid full retail for 5 litres I could probably get it done in the local KwikFit equivalent for much the same money.

I did wonder about getting the basics done elsewhere, or doing them myself, and then getting BMW to do the belts and reset the tappets to maintain the continuity of the service record - at the moment there is a proof of the low mileage, be a shame to let that drop.

Thanks again for your suggestions, the sun is shining here today, I think I may need to get the top off and take the Baur to work

Andrew

[Borderbmw]

It might be worth getting yourself a bentley manual shipped over to you from the uk or states,as ive found them to be much more usful than haynes.

[320Touring]

All 320's can run on unleaded-no need for lead substitiute


TBH 2hrs would get the oil, plugs and coolant chage done, if you take your time and dont get angry

as borderbmw said, it'd save you a few euro's!plus you'd have the satisfaction of knowing that it had been done correctly.....

you'll need

5L of engine oil
5L of Coolant (mix it 60/40 water/antifreeze)
GENUINE Fram oil filter (has all the non return valves etc, and worth the money
6x Spark Plugs, pref NGK brand
Masking tape + pen
17mm socket+wrench (for sump plug)
19mm Spark plug tool
Flat blade screw driver
10mm socket (for thermostat housing)
8mm socket (for bleed nipple)

do the coolant first..

1.undo bottom hose from radiator at RHS of the car, let coolant drain(catch it in a bucket )
2. undo the 3x 10mm bolts on the thermostat housing ( at the front of the engine, in front of the distributor cap)
3. Remove thermostat, and bolt housing back together.
4.Insert hose into header tank (next to RHS wing)and flush system until water is running clear.
5. Remove top hose from radiator and flush through with hose until clear
6. Replace the thermostat, and reattach all hoses
7. Pore the coolant into the header tank SLOWLY and give it time to settle. (should take about 4.5l to get to cold level marker)
8.Set the heaters to full (HOT and no. 4 fan setting, open all vents) and start car.
9. let car idle for 5-10mins keeping an eye on the temp gauge
10. open the 8mm bleed nipple (on top of the thermostat housing) and allow air to escape, then close.
11. repeat bleeding until all air is out and only water comes out when bleed nipple is opened.
12.Get a cup of coffee and relax for 20 mns

oil change is easy...

1. switch car off (oil should be warm so as much comes out as possible)
2. go underneath car with 17mm socket and loosen the sump plug (make sure you have something to catch the oil!!!)
3. Let car drain for 10mins (can check how much is left using the dipstick)
4. Replace sump plug and tighten (but not too much )
5. Remove oil filter, (on RHS of block beneath exhaust)
6. Fit new oil filter (smear rubber seal on top with fresh oil to ensure good seal)
7. Remove oil filler cap (on top of engine) and fill SLOWLY with about 4.5l of oil (use dipstick to check level regularly)
8.Replace oil filler cap and start engine, allow to idle for 10 mins.

Spark plugs...

1.remove the Spark plug leads ONE AT A TIME and (using masking tape+pen) number them 1-6.
2. Inspect the leads for any sign of breakages/cracking.
3. remove the spark plugs ONE AT A TIME and inspect for 'fouling/washing'
4. replace spark plugs and refit leads
5. start the car and go for a well earned cruise

[Guest]

as 98 unleaded in france is <2 cents more than 95 i ran mine on it and definately got further per tank than the 95 i am using back in the uk.

i got my 323i 1985 from my aunt 4 years back with 7247miles on the clock, with annual stealer service.

have a look in the hypermarkets and feu vert for 100% fully synthetic oil i got some castrol RS 0-40 for 28 euros, you'll get the 10euros extra spent on the fuel pumps well before the next service interval, plus you will get better engine protection and performance.

My experience of french garages has not been wonderful. the main dealer was ok but pricey. the country garage where the car broke down with a dead computer and fuel pump relay, was very very slow, 4 weeks. Friends in the city have had old alternators put on as new so it is definately worth seeking some local knowledge, as ever i guess.

Get the manuals and then have a look at what tools you have and what time and garage space you have. Most of the oil changing and radiator changes are trivial. however getting bolts/nuts etc has been the biggest mission for me.

This forum is also very helpful so if you get stuck there is usual somebody that has been there before, or your problem has been discussed before.

[Borderbmw]

Im sure if you were struggling to get nuts/bolts/fixings etc one of us could get them and post them over to you,might take a few days but its quicker than 4 weeks!

[rickk]

My '86 320i ran on unleaded just fine, made 200.000 miles without any problems, so no worries there. According to my mechanic it's hardly ever a problem with these engines.

But I'd worry a bit if the infamous timing belt was ever replaced (altough I'd guess so, if it was always serviced at BMW - note that you can check more detailed service records on your car at any BMW dealer btw), if it isn't and it snaps you'll destroy what otherwise sounds like very nice motor.

Good luck,
Rick