Central locking

Post Thu May 12, 2005 4:52 pm

Ok I've put my new alarm in and the reason I think it isn't working to lock the car is because the drivers door only locks when the key is rotated throught 90 degrees anti clock wise. As far as I know from reading the owners hand boox the locks should lock at 45 and then the key can be returned to upright, leaving the car locked, and when rotated to 90 deg the dead locks should be engaged.

1. My doors won't lock at 45 deg, anyone know why?
2. When deadlocked I cant open the passenger doors with the key but if the driver window is down the lock thing on the iside of the door if pulled unlocks the whole car. Any one know if this is right? It's like the drivers door isn't dead locked.

Really really grateful for any help anyone can give cos it's really pissing me off,
Cheers guys

Post Thu May 12, 2005 7:39 pm

There's a hinged bit on the end of the drivers lock key barrel that is either seized, worn or brcken.
Take off the doorcard and ,with the aid of a long screwdriver, slide the clip that holds the barrel in place towards the front of the car. The barrel then comes outwards, and you should be able to see what is wrong.

Post Thu May 12, 2005 7:41 pm

Cheers I'll go out and try it now..........
..........await a reply

Post Thu May 12, 2005 8:12 pm

Hi mate I've got it out, here's the pics,

Can't really see which bit you're on about?

Post Thu May 12, 2005 8:32 pm

The L shaped bit on the end should be hinged. When you put the key in and turn the 90 degree way, the hinged bit should flip over on an overcentre spring kind of arrangement.

Post Thu May 12, 2005 8:33 pm

Sorry those pics are crap. I have cleaned it and refitted it and it's the same as before aaaaaaggggggggghhhhhhhhh. I hate electrics.
Still have to turn the key 90deg + a bit to get it to lock. And still not working with the alarm.
Help some electronic Guru I need inspiration!

I'm off for a

now actually cos things are sht at the mo AND then the car won't work, piss shit and bollocks

Post Thu May 12, 2005 8:40 pm

calm down dear, its an e30

try the conection joint between the door and pillar. i had this proble( well similar) and it was the white wire not far enough in the connector unit. get a small s/driver and push each one in.

regards

elliot

Post Thu May 12, 2005 8:41 pm

Does the L shaped bit snap over as you turn the key 90 degrees?
Re alarm: Do you mean the alarm won't lock and unlock the doors on the alarm remote?
What E30 wires did you connect to (colours) to connect the alarm to the car?

Post Thu May 12, 2005 8:54 pm

Cheers for the replys guy, bit melodramatic that post.
Brian the L shaped bit does all the flicking and clicking with the spring etc
I can't see how the dor would lick of you turned the key only 45 deg??
The alarm is connected to pins 6 (green/blue) & pin 7 (yellow/blue) on the central locking relay which meant that it was unlocking if I armed the alarm and then locked the door with the key, the alarm when I disarmed it would unlock the doors. It wouldn't lock them, now cos I have been fiddling it refuses to unlock them too.

Elloit, I'll go and check all the connections now.
Cheers
guys

Post Thu May 12, 2005 9:12 pm

I have similar problems with the lock on my car 318is. I am going to take it to bits and have a look this w/e. Take a look at this article - it explains how the locking works. It's a lot easier to fix something if you know how its supposed to work in the first place!

http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/d ... Section=02

Post Thu May 12, 2005 9:15 pm

Pin 6 or 9 is the unlock request, and pins 7 or 8 is the lock request. The alarm needs to earth the appropriate pin for a short period to lock or unlock the car. If it won't lock when you arm the alarm, I would suspect the pulse from the alarm is 12V+ rather then earth.
Try earthing pin 7 of the lock module with a piece of wire. This should lock the doors. Similarly earthing pin 6 should unlock them.
Try pulling the plug off the drivers door lock solenoid.
Make sure you have a window open while you do all this by the way, in case the car decides to lock you out permanently.

Post Thu May 12, 2005 10:01 pm

OK
1. The alarm earths it's unlock/lock wires when locking/unlocking. I have tested this with and LED and +ive from the cigarette lighter.

2. Pin 7 locks the car when earthed to the cigarett lighter -ive, pin 6 unlocks it, so there is notheing wrong with the C/locking.

My guess is I have a dodgy earth on the alarm which is allowing enough current to flow for an led, but not enough for the door lock actuators.
Off out to solder the earths rather than crimp.

PS, cheers guys I feel inspired now I know the C/locking system has n't given up

PPS BBS cross spokes on a Marlin? You legend!!! What motor you going to run?

Post Fri May 13, 2005 12:09 am

Whoopee all working now

All down to dodgy crimp connectors, so I wasted time by trying to save time.

All the important ones are soldered now.
Huge Big thanks to you all guys, I lost my rag with it a bit and what with what has been going on this week, I lost the logical test things step by step approach.

Now new question, how do I make the siren that blips quieter, it's bloody loud and blips 4 times when I unlock. As I'm in town I don't want people knowing when I go drifting at 1.00am

Post Fri May 13, 2005 12:19 am

i always solder connections, its a must with alarms as you get intermitant faults otherwise

Post Mon May 16, 2005 1:33 pm

The cross spokes are temporary as they are only 14" and I need something bigger to fill the whell arches (well mudgaurds anyway) Motor is a stock 325 - I figure 170hp is probably enough for a car that weighs less than 3/4 of a ton....