Cylinder Head Removal

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Davenotouring
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Post Fri Apr 01, 2005 4:22 pm

Hello!

The head/headgasket has gone on my 2.5 engine.

Contemplating a few different ideas, but considering taking the head off myself and giving it to a company to skim/pressure test and replace the seals etc.

What do I need to do when removing the head?

Can someone give me the basic steps which I need to take?

I may try to start this at the weekend.

:evil: :mad: :D
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Templ8e30
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Post Fri Apr 01, 2005 7:05 pm

Start by draining the coolant from the rad and the block (the block drain plug is under the exhaust manifold and has 19mm head), the engine must be STONE cold before removing the head.

Disconnect the injector loom multiplug (under the inlet manifold) and any other electrics.

Disconnect the air inlet hose and vac pipes from the throttle body

Disconnect the exhaust downpipes

It's easier to leave the inlet manifold on but the exhaust manifold is best removed as it's quite heavy.

Remove all the cambelt covers and the belt.

Disconnect the hoses from the fuel rail and the thermostat housing, and also the hose from the rear of the head by the bulkhead.

Remove the nuts securing the dipstick bracket and loom/coolant hose bracket from under the inet manifold.

Remove the rocker cover and undo the head bolts in reverse sequence.

Brace yourself, and pull the head straight off the block.

From memory the head and inlet manifold weigh about 45 Kgs so be prepared !.

Always use new head bolts when refitting as they stretch once only.

I'd allow 4 or 5 hours to remove it if its your first time doing it :D

Cheers,

Iain T
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glenn
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Post Fri Apr 01, 2005 8:16 pm

nice step by step guide there templ8e30
oh and dave, prepare for spanner rash !! :twisted:
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Post Fri Apr 01, 2005 11:04 pm

my local bmw specialists would add... leave the exhaust manifold on the block, it'll save snapping studs etc!

or they'll do the lot for Ԛ£200 all in, parts included........ ony a 40 mile drive dave!
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Brianmoooore
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Post Fri Apr 01, 2005 11:22 pm

Don't turn the crank or cam after you've removed the cambelt, and make sure both are in the right relative positions when you put the head back on.
Agree with leaving the exhaust manifold on, unless all the nuts have been coppergreased when last assembled. You don't need broken exhaust studs complicating life.
Davenotouring
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Post Sat Apr 02, 2005 10:27 am

Thanks for the advise chaps.

Very useful!!

I will let you know how I get on.....

:D
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