i was under the car again today looking at what the winter months have done to my underside, (booking it in for an underseal this month coming as soon as ive cleaned up under there)
anyway i remembered about Brianmooore saying how i could check the break pad sensor wires were touching the disks unnesseceraly, so i started looking, first one ..rear right hand side, unpluged and wrapped around the damper!?!
second one... front left hand side, looped around the bleed nipple and tied back around itself!
both sensors are litterally flapping in the wind!?!
well it dont matter anyway coz break pads and disks are at the top (end) of my list so ill get them attatched when i change them over.
but the point of the thread is.. How comes the sensor light has come on and been on for a while now if it has never been connected..and how comes it was flickering like there was slight contact on rotation if they were never in contact??
freakin me out a bit, so question
How do i get the light out considering the sensors arnԚ´t not connected
would really like to know, please help
cheeky dratsab !!
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johnono
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E30Mark
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The dash warning light comes on when the circuit is broken, ie when the wire wears through or it's unplugged.
The dash light flickers because there is a loose connection on the dash!
The dash light flickers because there is a loose connection on the dash!
1 & 2 bed flats in Bournemouth areas, with parking
PM for details
PM for details
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johnono
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ok, that may mean that there is a loose con. in the dash.. but the sensors were never pluged in so..?
it did flicker but in accordance to speed, ie slow flash at 10-15 mph fast to constant at 40 and above, with apropriate graduation between,
it really was acting as though they were in and working, thats what freaked me out.
now its constantly on so ive resigned myself to waiting untill i di the break system renewal
it did flicker but in accordance to speed, ie slow flash at 10-15 mph fast to constant at 40 and above, with apropriate graduation between,
it really was acting as though they were in and working, thats what freaked me out.
now its constantly on so ive resigned myself to waiting untill i di the break system renewal
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Brianmoooore
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Are the sensor wires tied back away from the wheel rim, and not worn partly through?
If this isn't the problem, then the trouble is either one of the sensor plug and sockets is not making contact properly, or it's the infamous 220 ohm resistor in the cluster.
If this isn't the problem, then the trouble is either one of the sensor plug and sockets is not making contact properly, or it's the infamous 220 ohm resistor in the cluster.
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johnono
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bri, i was looking at them good and hard, the rear one ends on a white plastic clip/loop combination and the wires were in fine condition
the front one had a smaller grey clip with a metal tab tip, this was also i good condition.. so im baffled
the plug sockets cant been seen from under the car can they, i followed the rear and it dissapeared to the side of the heat sheild, and the front runs into the under arch though a rubber goit
the front one had a smaller grey clip with a metal tab tip, this was also i good condition.. so im baffled
the plug sockets cant been seen from under the car can they, i followed the rear and it dissapeared to the side of the heat sheild, and the front runs into the under arch though a rubber goit
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Brianmoooore
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The connectors I'm talking about are six inches from the actual sensors. Should be clipped into a bracket on the brake backplates at the top.
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johnono
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about 2 cm by 1 cm cylindrical rubber covered thing with the looped sensor wire coming out of it?
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Brianmoooore
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That's them. They are two pin plugs and sockets. Plug them together with some silicon grease in there.
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johnono
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yes boss, im on the mofo first light. (iԚ´ll be doing it deffinatly first thing tomorow
)
