I'm new to the board so please go easy on me.
I'm Canadian but am currently living/working in Sarajevo BiH.
I recently purchased an 88 316i with what appears to be a M10 engine. The problem I have is cold starting. I thought the problem might be the normal culprits like ICV, temp sensor or cold start injector. But last night by chance I think I have got a break in the source of the problem.
As I was opening my door the radio went dead and the interior lights died. I looked under the hood and fuse 21 had blow. I didn't have a replacement so I left it and this morning the car started right up with barley a key turn. I was shocked to say the least.
Now finally for my question. Would somebody be able to point me in the direction of what is supposed to be connected to fuse 21. So I can narrow down my search for electrical fault? I found a fuse box layout for a US 325i but it doesn't seems right for the euro 316i.
The first places I'm going to start looking are the pervious owners power window install. And the car alarm that is no longer being used. (The car alarm is going to be removed)
Thanks
316i Cold Starting/Electrical Fault
Moderator: martauto
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49360
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Hi, and welcome to the zone!
There aren't any basic differences between US and other E30 fuseboxes that I'm aware of. Fuse 21 is for part of the instrument cluster, interior lights, boot light, torch, clock, radio memory, and on some '88 cars, the glove box light. Later cars have the glovebox light on fuse 4.
This latter point is important, because the glove box light is a common cause of fuse failure.
I'm afraid I can't see any obvious link between poor cold starting and fuse 21.
There aren't any basic differences between US and other E30 fuseboxes that I'm aware of. Fuse 21 is for part of the instrument cluster, interior lights, boot light, torch, clock, radio memory, and on some '88 cars, the glove box light. Later cars have the glovebox light on fuse 4.
This latter point is important, because the glove box light is a common cause of fuse failure.
I'm afraid I can't see any obvious link between poor cold starting and fuse 21.
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xPat
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:00 pm
While it doesn't seem I can reproduce the good cold starting without fuse 21. But for some reason my car has developed a short that constantly blows that fuse 
But back to the cold starting problem. If the car runs fine once started, starts fine once warm and doesn't have any idle problems. where else am i to look? The cold start injector works when the engine is cold. The temp sensor give proper resistance when cold and warm. I have thoroughly cleaned both the Mass air flow and ICV and replaced my distributor cap (plugs and leads to follow).
I'm leaning toward replacing the ICV.
But i have another problem which may or may not be related. When i first turn the key in my car i don't hear the fuel pump priming. If i turn the key off then on again i hear the pump prime. Also the pump has a loudish humming/whining sound at all time.
any help would be greatly appreciated
But back to the cold starting problem. If the car runs fine once started, starts fine once warm and doesn't have any idle problems. where else am i to look? The cold start injector works when the engine is cold. The temp sensor give proper resistance when cold and warm. I have thoroughly cleaned both the Mass air flow and ICV and replaced my distributor cap (plugs and leads to follow).
I'm leaning toward replacing the ICV.
But i have another problem which may or may not be related. When i first turn the key in my car i don't hear the fuel pump priming. If i turn the key off then on again i hear the pump prime. Also the pump has a loudish humming/whining sound at all time.
any help would be greatly appreciated
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49360
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
For the short circuit, boot light wiring along the boot hinge, and the above mentioned glove box light are the prime suspects. (Glove box lamp holder can short circuit if no bulb is fitted).
Your car probably has the double fuel pump arrangement with an external pressure pump by the rear right wheel arch. This is much noisier than the later in tank pump, and will be noisier still if the in tank lift pump has failed.
For the poor starting: I'm afraid I'm not very familiar with this early stuff, but the obvious is the cold start injector, assuming this is the set up you have, although you say it is working.
Try taking out the fuel pump relay and shorting together pins 30 and 87 of its base before you try starting it from cold. This will make the fuel pump run continuously and ensure the fuel pressure is up first.
Don't forget to remove the link afterwards, as the fuel pump will run ignition on or off.
Your car probably has the double fuel pump arrangement with an external pressure pump by the rear right wheel arch. This is much noisier than the later in tank pump, and will be noisier still if the in tank lift pump has failed.
For the poor starting: I'm afraid I'm not very familiar with this early stuff, but the obvious is the cold start injector, assuming this is the set up you have, although you say it is working.
Try taking out the fuel pump relay and shorting together pins 30 and 87 of its base before you try starting it from cold. This will make the fuel pump run continuously and ensure the fuel pressure is up first.
Don't forget to remove the link afterwards, as the fuel pump will run ignition on or off.