Teething problems, they all add up!!!

[DemonDaz]

I have spent the afternoon trying to change the front discs, and giving up in the end!!!

Easy job, apart from yesterday I realised there was a screw in a tyre, Took it in to have done and the bloke said "put it on Full lock and look at the fronts"

EEEkkkkkkk thread showing, So 4 new tyres later I drove off!

Anyway one of the bolts wouldn't come off for the wheel, finally got that removed to find I haven't got the right sized hex key to undo the damned caliper bolts.... Sooooo, what size is it? I am probably going to get the garage to do it now but I need to know for future.

I will only get the garage to do it as I am gonna take it in to get the cambelt chagned.

[ian332isport]

what size is it?

It's 7mm. Unfortunately, this is not a size you find in a standard set of allen keys (funny that ).

You can get a tool designed for this from Halfrauds (basically a 7mm allen key with a hadle on it), or get a 7mm hex bit that will fit on a regular ratchet (also from Halfrauds).

Cheers,

Ian.

[Brianmoooore]

If you're changing the discs you can get away with not unscrewing the caliper guides, as the whole caliper bracket will have to come off anyway.

[johnono]

is changing the disks a job i could do at home then?

i notice a minor bumping sensation as im breaking, so i want new disks, i dont have abs so its not that im sure, do the disks just slide out from between the the pads as theyԚ´re good still.

but i could change them too really, not that i have a clue how to do either

[Paul325i]

Easy as hell to do mate, simply take the wheel off, undo the 2 caliper retaining bolts and knock the caliper off the disc carefully with a hammer and a bit of wood. Then undo the Allen key screw that retains the disc and swap.

When refitting the caliper you'll need to compress the piston back into the body of the caliper to fit onto the new disc, G clamp is the easiest way with the brake pads removed for ease (Watch the fluid reservoir as it can spill out the top if it's already filled highly), check the pads out at the same time and make sure the caliper isn't leaking fluid. Clean the pads and the new disc up with brake/clutch cleaner.

Then simply refit the caliper and torque the bolts, wheel back on and then onto the other side.

Make sure you use a little copper grease on the moving parts of the caliper being sure to avoid the pad friction surface and the disc itself, apply some to the small Allen bolt that retains the disc to as they have a habit of being hard to remove.

[johnono]

top man thats going in the diy drawer for certain!

coppergrease i have, so now i need some disks

[320Touring]

*puts on list of things to do*

gonna get me some pagid fast road pads methinks....

cheers lads!

[DemonDaz]

Cheers for the help guys, I have decided to do it myself at the weekend, once I get the 7mm key!

[Paul325i]

I actually used a slightly larger one and filed it down to fit, pikey i know

[Brianmoooore]

When changing pads and pushing the pistons back it is best to undo the bleed nipple on that caliper and expell the fluid as the pistons retract.
This avoids pushing crappy fluid back through the system, the possibility of damage to the ABS on some cars and the risk of flipping the seals in the master cylinder.

At least make an attemt to unscrew the disc locating screw before you bash it off with a plank of wood - it may undo.

[Paul325i]

I mean bash off the caliper, then undo the screw that retains the disc after, the lip on the edge or worn discs normally stops the caliper being removed.

Didn't say undo the nipple as that means you'll have to bleed the system after which is more hassle than you need when just quickly changing discs, but fair point on the old fluid although that shouldn't be a problem if you change the fluid at the correct intervals.

[Brianmoooore]

Paul325i - I missread your post although I have known people smack the disc off without unscrewing the locating screw.
You shouldn't need to bleed the system after unscrewing the nipple as gravity will keep fluid flowing down slowly from the master cylinder. Obviously keep an eye on the level in the m/cylinder resevoir.

[Simon13]

is changing the fluid a half competant DIY job? or just pay a pro to do it?

[Brianmoooore]

Not particularly difficult job. Much easier with a pressure bleeder. Gunson's do an Eazibleed or something like that, which works well enough if you can stop the thing from leaking, but don't use to much air pressure.
If you have ABS you should really change the fluid, go out and work the ABS a few times by braking hard, and then partly flush it again.