How the hell does this come out?!
Assmebly dismantled and cable free but I need to get the rear rubber sleeving out of the hub, is this screwed in or is it just held in place using The Force. And how of of The Force do I need to use to get the sodding thing out?
Also as I can't drive square onto the end of it, do I need to take the hub off so I can get a good run at it, would rather not have to do that tbh..
(Dropping the rear beam out for replacement, hence the need to do this. Also want to paint/clean up the trailing arms so can't really leave them in place)
Cheers Guys
Fairly Urgent - Rear Disc Handbrake Cable Sleeve
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Jos
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'89 Touring - slightly rippled with a rusty underside
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JazzMan
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They should just pull out with enough force (did on mine, 325 rear disks).
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Templ8e30
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Mine were well rusted in place, I got them out with a combination of penetrating fluid/pulling and twisting with water pump pliers and lots of swearing
Cheers,
Iain T
Cheers,
Iain T

2007 Mazda 6 2.0 estate
Political Correctness - A concept based on the idea that its possible to pick up a turd by the clean end !
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Jos
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Does the rubber come out or the whole metal end? It's well in there, I tried punching it out with a screwdriver and all that did was make the screwdriver shorter :p
Got the rear beam out with the arms inplace still, thats the major bit done which was suprisngly easy, little tip if the collar is up in the bodyframe: put the bolt back in 1/2 way and mash it sideways with a hammer, that frees the collar out of the bodyshell
Little sidenote while I have the diff out I might change it to a 3.91 diff, the existing is a 4.27. Think it would be ok? I don't drive hard anyway so would save a few pennies on motorway driving.
Got the rear beam out with the arms inplace still, thats the major bit done which was suprisngly easy, little tip if the collar is up in the bodyframe: put the bolt back in 1/2 way and mash it sideways with a hammer, that frees the collar out of the bodyshell
Little sidenote while I have the diff out I might change it to a 3.91 diff, the existing is a 4.27. Think it would be ok? I don't drive hard anyway so would save a few pennies on motorway driving.
'89 Touring - slightly rippled with a rusty underside
'94 e36 tree climber
'94 e36 tree climber
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Chris-W
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Jos
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Rain stopped play for the moment anyway, going to leave the arms on for the time being and just bolt the new subframe to it when it's inplace. Cheers for all the replies guys I will get ignorant with it once I get the rest of the car put back together.
'89 Touring - slightly rippled with a rusty underside
'94 e36 tree climber
'94 e36 tree climber
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jamesc
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Mine where rusted as anything (both ends). I had the most success getting them out of the car end by rapidly heating with a blow torch, then rapid cooling with a water squirter. This broke the rust and the ends popped out fairly easily.
James
James

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Jos
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Was a bit worried about using heat due to the rubber sleeving but using water with it is a good idea. My plan is to take the hubs off and drive a long socket down into it after a very libral soaking in oil. I can't do it atm as there is no way I will get the hub nut off with both wheels in the air.
'89 Touring - slightly rippled with a rusty underside
'94 e36 tree climber
'94 e36 tree climber
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jamesc
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I got the ends out of the trailing arms like you said, putting a bar in and hitting very hard 

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kevin316i
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The ends of the handbrake sleeve are supposed to have a collar on them that fits in place, but are a complete pain in the ar*e to remove. I got them done on my car and the mechanic thought they would never come out, but eventually did after a few hours on penetrating oil and brute force. Well, thats what he told me anyway!
BTW, if you need to buy a new set from BMW, they are expensive!
BTW, if you need to buy a new set from BMW, they are expensive!


