D.I.Y Rusty Arch Repair ???

[naylor04]

I'm doing mine this easter weekend as i cant really afford to get them done professionally.
As ive never done this before i really havent got a clue where to start or what tools i need, (rust killer,wet and dry, that sort of stuff) can anyone please give me some advice .
This is one job i'm not scared of having a go-at , because they cant look any worse than they do now, no matter what i do to them!

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[stevo]

i work in a bodyshop, if you post a pic of the rust i'll be able to give you some advice

[naylor04]

Cheers Stevo', i'm just getting the car out of the garage to take a pic.
He He !!!
Be right back atcha !!!!!! ;O)

[naylor04]

Phew.........its cold out there dude. Anyway heres the pic, hope it shows everything for you.

[bullitt]

Ok how bad are they?? Holed or just surface rust!!

You will need a 4" grinder with a 60grit flexi disc to grind out most of the rust, treat it with rust inhibiter(KRUST etc) fill it with isopon apply and shape this a skim layer at a time, sand to shape with a sanding block 240/360/500 grade discs/paper, panelwipe the surface, mask it of and apply filler primer (available in aerosols) build it up with 4/5 coats, now spray a dust coat of satin black over it this called a guide coat so you can see were you havn't rubbed, rub it down with wet n dry paper using lots of water 800/1000 grade especially concentrate on the primer edge so this is smooth or you will see it through the Paint!! Now for paint you can get it mixed in an aerosol again by colour code or take your petrol flap to get scanned for a colour match.. Panelwipe again mask up to the 1/4 panel line(Saves on having to paint the whole 1/4) with fine line tape this leaves less of an edge to be polished out later, (Practice first with old cans of paint to gauge how much you can apply before it runs) Apply first with fine coats to get some coverage then 10min between 4/5+ coats also try and fade out the coverage up toward the 1/4 panel line so you don't get a big edge.. Leave it overnite to dry its time for G3 polish and elbow grease finish with Tcut and polish!!

Hope this helps..

[naylor04]

Wow Stevo, you type fast !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thats pretty much everything i needed to know, thanks ever so much,
ONCE AGAIN THE ZONE COMES GOOD !!!

[stevo]

same as wot he said!

[bullitt]

Phew.........its cold out there dude. Anyway heres the pic, hope it shows everything for you.

M8 just seen that pic!! Your arch is rotten Touch it with a grinder it will turn into holes.. You will be able grind most of the rust out and bluff it up with fiberfill.. Not really a proper job but will look ok!!

[stevo]

credit to bullit

[naylor04]

I had the under arches done about 1 and a half years ago, the rust is just on the outter arch (i'm hoping).
So what you saying.......just grind it down, fill it and paint it, that does sound much easier for a super novice like myself .
I'm really just looking for a temporary job till i can afford to get it done proppah.

[stevo]

after its been grinded use fibreglass matting to try to get a not bad shape to the arch before using filler, oh and cover the wheel before doing anything!

[Karan]

god i'd be well scared of doing anything like that myself........

hows it going lee???didnt see ya at lakeside

Karan

[stevo]

or better still take the wheel off. doubt there'l be much left of the arch after the angle grinders hit it!

[naylor04]

I'm starting to lose me bottle already now guys,
Naaaaah i'll be fine, like i said, it cant look any worse.
Cheers Stevo & Bullit , i'll keep you posted on how it go's.

[naylor04]

Hiya Karan, Nah dude, too ill for Lakeside,
Went out into London on the Friday night with the missus and some friends and got a little bit drunk
Should be up for the Stevenage meet though, looking forward to seeing player6's car, and it should be warmer too.
Too be honest Karan i'm bricking it myself, its got to be done though, car meets this year, Gaydon, Donnington ect........+ e30 zone meets.

When ppl look at the car i get embarrassed about the arches,if i fook it up i'll have to bite the bullet and get a loan to get them repaired, but
at least i would have tried.

[bullitt]

I'm starting to lose me bottle already now guys,
Naaaaah i'll be fine, like i said, it cant look any worse.
Cheers Stevo & Bullit , i'll keep you posted on how it go's.

Thanks man..
At least treat it NOW!! with some inhibiter Krust is best it is a white thin liquid that turns black paint plenty on this will slow down tne spread of Rust..

Remember Rust is a cars Cancer!!

[naylor04]

I'm hoping to use a more gentle approach than an angle grinder though,
Was thinking of sanding the paint down and when i get to the metal use wire wool or something ?????????
I really dont know what i'm talking about or if it'll work.
Answers on a postcard............

[stevo]

oh and when you grind it, take off about 2 1/2" of paint from the sound metal around it for the filler to "stick" and get it smooth. also easier to see what your dealing with. go on, whats the worst that can happen?

[Karan]

will be good to se ya again fella and take u for another whiteknuckle ride LOL

however i fear the 2.7 may be dead as it may possibly have ring wear and increased crankcase pressure......-it's running good though still-cya there dude

Karan

[naylor04]

whats the worst that can happen?

Whats the worst that can happen ?, dude you really scaring me now ,

[naylor04]

Mind you Stevo, it cant be any worse than the time i tried to change my fuel filter. Got a face full of petrol, all down my neck and up my arms, i sh@t myself, thought i was gonna lose a whole tank of petrol on the drive.
And when i did manage to get the new filter on, would it start????????
Half an hour later after nearly draining the battery i put my hand in my pocket and , hmmm whats this fuse for, i'd forgotten to put the fuse to the fuel pump back in. Silly me !!!!!!

[bullitt]

Relax man!!

If you don't want to use a grinder start with a block and some 80grit slide that bumper back to, if some holes appear use fiberglass mat & resin on the inside of the arch!! Practice first if your not sure how to do it ..

[naylor04]

Bullit, i'm lovin your advice, but what is a block, i really havent got a clue.

[stevo]

bullitt, could you help me? got any better ways of taking 30 year old underseal off other than a heatgun and scraper?im restoring a triumph for a guy and he wants it painted underneath, its taking forever! any sanding stuff just gets clogged up. cheers

[bullitt]

Bullit, i'm lovin your advice, but what is a block, i really havent got a clue.

Any advice you need give me a shout!!
A block?? You could use a piece of wood 3"x2" 5" long, I use a bodyshop type velcro block for filler work and a soft rubber block for primer prep.. Try a B'shop supplier if you want the proper stuff!!

[bullitt]

bullitt, could you help me? got any better ways of taking 30 year old underseal off other than a heatgun and scraper?im restoring a triumph for a guy and he wants it painted underneath, its taking forever! any sanding stuff just gets clogged up. cheers

NICE!! OH how much Rot is hiding below??
A plumber type blow torch will soften the sealer more effectively.. Watch carpets, looms, fuel lines!!

[naylor04]

I take it 80grit is sand paper type stuff, or is it a paste ?
I'm not joe king , i really dont have a clue but i seriously appreciate your help on this one.

[stevo]

chers bullitt, under the sealer is actually like factory fresh paint, its just getting to it! i'll try'n dig up a blow torch from somewhere. Naylor all sand paper has a grade of roughness, the lower the number the rougher the paper, 1 grit would be like broken bottles on card i'd imagine, and 3000 being a glossy magazine!

[320Touring]

naylor04-heres some basic descriptions ( I had to learn them once too!)


80 grit is sandpaper!

Its graded from lowest to highest

I.E 80 grit is rougher than 120 grit,m and 120 grit is rougher than 600 grit etc

For final preperation and flatting of coats of paint, wet/dry paper of extremely fine texture is used (eg 1500grit).

This stuff is easy to identify as it is usually black/dark grey in colour.

It is best used in its wet form (just use a basin of clean cold water).

What you basically do is dip the paper into the water when it begins to clog with paint dust.This cleans the paper and also keeps dust to a minimum, and makes for a nice even sanding action.

The G3 and T-Cut that bullitt mentioned are cutting compounds used to blend new paint edges into old, and to remove small scratches.

They are a lot finer than the sandpaper used and provide a really good finish if used correctly.

The G3 should be used first to do most of the final 'cutting' (IE blending/tiding of paintwork) work.Work in small areas, following application instructions to the letter.

The T-Cut is the final stage and helps you achieve a nice shiny finish just follow the instructions! -but be aware-after all this work your paint is 'raw'-so make sure you wax it afterwards!

good luck!

I've got a few spots that need attending to on the touring-thanks for reminding me!

320Touring

[Bavo]

Make sure you use a glass fibre filler as normal filler soaks up water . Stick plently of underseal on and wax oyl, but the rust will come back only sure way is cutting it out and welding

[naylor04]

Thank you everyone for all your help and support, not so scared now.
I'll keep a photo diary of my progress and post it when complete.

[cuk325]

good luck with it lee.
hope it goes well for you mate

[naylor04]

Hiya Chris, cheers matey.
I'm sort of looking forward to doing it, and then again not if you know what i mean. How are you these days dude, Still got your compact, are you still in E30 ownership ?????
Not heard from Jay for a while neither, whats he driving nowadaze ?
Nice to hear from you.

[cuk325]

yeah mate i still got the compact but got an e30 325 cab aswell now..
jays got his cab still but got a 3.2 evo engine in there now.
things are good cheers, working mega mega hard but cant complain