How hard is it to replace the engine loom, running from under the dash, into the engine bay? I'm getting rather upset now, just replaced my engine, cause I thought it was the cause of the problem, but no, I still have the stutter.
Besides the fact that I had a burnt piston and cylender - would have cost me more to get that fixed than the new motor. Anyway, thats what I thought was causing the stutter.
Any takers?
Sorry, forgot to mention - 89' 325i.
How hard is it to replace....
Moderator: martauto
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jog5000
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Brianmoooore
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Easy, but I would be surprised if it cures your problem!
Check out a round multipin plug and socket fitted to the metalwork under the inlet manifold.
Check out a round multipin plug and socket fitted to the metalwork under the inlet manifold.
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Dave_M3
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Im just guessing but it might be the fuel relay
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jog5000
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Brian, they replaced the plug and socket, and its not the relay either.
I was checking the one fuel pump inside the tank, had the cover off, pulled the wires, and it made no difference to how the car was idling, didnt hear any sound from the pump either. Could it be the pump perhaps?
Thanks.
I was checking the one fuel pump inside the tank, had the cover off, pulled the wires, and it made no difference to how the car was idling, didnt hear any sound from the pump either. Could it be the pump perhaps?
Thanks.

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Brianmoooore
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If it didn't stop shortly after you cut the power to the in tank pump, you must have the old two pump set up, with just a lift pump inside the tank and a high pressure pump in front of the rear left wheelarch.jog5000 wrote:Brian, they replaced the plug and socket, and its not the relay either.
I was checking the one fuel pump inside the tank, had the cover off, pulled the wires, and it made no difference to how the car was idling, didnt hear any sound from the pump either. Could it be the pump perhaps?
Thanks.
Not much experience of these, but I know the engine will still go without the tank pump.
Pressure gauge on the fuel rail should be one of your next steps though.
Going back to my earlier post; just because I've never seen or heard of problems with the engine loom, other than the plug and socket you say has been changed, it doesn't mean that you can't be the first.
There have been a few posts lately along the lines of " the 7.5A fuse blew, so I stuck in a 35A one". With idiots like this around, any kind of previously unheard of loom faults are possible.
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jog5000
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I just got my car back from a reputable E30 mech, here in Cape Town, asked him about the fuses, relays etc. He replaced them all, when he replaced the engine last week.
I've just been out to the parking lot, and removed the wiring again, ran the car, didnt stall. Would the non working pick up pump not make the engine run a bit odd?
I've just been out to the parking lot, and removed the wiring again, ran the car, didnt stall. Would the non working pick up pump not make the engine run a bit odd?

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georob
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Check the injectors,
i had the same problem and people suggested icv, air flow, sensors etc etc which was not the case in the end
have you ran in dry or low on fuel?
i had the same problem and people suggested icv, air flow, sensors etc etc which was not the case in the end
have you ran in dry or low on fuel?
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jog5000
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Georob, the injectors were replaced with the engine last week, along with sensors etc. The problem was around since before the engine change though, and its REALLY starting to grate me.
Would the motor be able to run without the fuel pressure regulator?
Would the motor be able to run without the fuel pressure regulator?

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Brianmoooore
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Wouldn't be able to run WITHOUT the FPR - it would be pissing petrol all over the floor!
If you mean faulty FPR, then, depending how it failed, the engine will either run weak or rich.
Get a gauge on it.
If you mean faulty FPR, then, depending how it failed, the engine will either run weak or rich.
Get a gauge on it.
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jog5000
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hmm, going to change the fuel filter after work, see if that has any blockage in it. Checked both pumps yesterday, and they are running as they should.

