Sump Gasket ?

[Martinaston]

I'm cleaning an M20 sump and while removing the old original cork gasket i've noticed there are little bits of what looks like silicone in the unused bolt holes through the gasket.
But when you read the manuals they all say to re-fit the new one dry
So do i use a sealent or silicone, if so what one ? or leave it dry ?
Help i'm lost

[ian332isport]

Should be fitted dry, but you should put a small amount of silicone/gasket sealer across the join between the block and the timing cover/rear oil seal carrier. If you don't do this it will leak slightly.

It's also very important to only do the bolts up to the correct torque. These should be 10Nm and no more. If you are doing it by feel then you will most likely over tighten them. 10Nm feels like naff all, but it is correct.

Cheers,

Ian.

[gareth]

with sumps and teh amazingly low torques involved, it's often worthwhile using a little light threadlock too, saves the bolts getting lost!

if you don't lock them, recheck them next time you're under there to be sure.

[DanThe]

Agree with that Gareth, near enough every E30 sump ive removed has had a lose bolt or two

[Martinaston]

Cheers Ian
As you mentioned the rear oil seal carrier, i've got a new gasket for that as well but it's steel not the original paper type.
Any idea what to do with that one ?
Just clamp it down or get the sealant on that as well ?

[ian332isport]

I believe it's supposed to be installed dry, but being steel a bit of sealer would not hurt, but only a very thin smear. You don't want a load squidging out when you clamp it down or it could fall into the sump and cause problems/blockages etc.

Ian.

[Martinaston]

Cheers
It'll have a job falling into the sump, the blocks upside down at the minuet