"CHECK" light flashing, can I get the ECU codes?

Post Wed Jun 07, 2006 10:30 pm

any way of flashing up the ECU codes to see what its flashing about?

Post Wed Jun 07, 2006 11:38 pm

THIS IS A CUT&PASTE

The fault codes can be read when the key is in the on position. The codes begin after 3 seconds and each flash is approximately one second apart. If more than one failt has been dtected, each code will be separated by a 3 second pause. Whe all fault codes have been displayed, there will be another 3 second pause and then the check engine light will stay on solid. To read the codes again, simply turn the key off and then on again.

Also in addition, know this:
Fault codes that are not emmisions related are stored in the internal memory of the control unit and can only be read using the special BMW service Tester. The check engine light will not come on for these codes.

I beleive this "special tester" can be purchased for around $150.

http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylor/B ... Codes.html

Post Wed Jun 07, 2006 11:57 pm

Never seen a UK E30 with the ECU fault light fitted, and when it is, it doesn't flash. Only flashes when you read out the codes.
Someone suggested on here once, that, if you connected up the fault light, than the code reading would work, but I've never got around to trying it.

Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 12:09 am

hmmm so what does the flashing "CHECK" light mean? how do i know what its telling me?

Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 12:22 am

If you mean the one in the centre of the cluster that says "check", then that is connected to the check module with the red LEDs in the roof.
flashes whenever one of the LEDs come on to draw your attention to it. Stopped by pressing the reset button on the overhead panel.
Having written all this, I don't know if BMW use the same light position on the cluster for cars with the ECU light. I used the auto gearbox warning light position on my M50 conversion.

Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 12:25 am

Ahhh gotcha now.

Well, the only lights that are lit up are "BRAKE LIGHTS" and "COOLANT" both of which are fine.

Am I OK to remove this check module completely as it doesn't do anything worth while (for me) anyway.

Would I be OK unplugging it, and removing the loom/ cutting the wires, as its currently hanging down due to no roof lining, so its where the stereo "should" be at the moment.

Just want to be sure it will run OK will all this removed, and will hopefully stop the light from flashing

Thanks in advance for you reply Brian, oh and ta also ;)

Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 12:43 am

"Check" system saved me a whole engine (or head at least), when the coolant light came on late one night when I was 150 miles from home. A small hole had appeared in one of the smaller coolant hoses, and I was losing water fast.
Lamp failure modules also helps being pulled by the boys in blue, and getting subjected to a more thorough inspection of your car and any other illegalities that may be on it.

Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 12:45 am

yeah, i hear ya!

altho when it says stuff is wrong, when it isn't bugs me! hehe

it can stay in for now

Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 12:48 am

slowlysideways wrote:
altho when it says stuff is wrong, when it isn't bugs me!

Repair it then! Water gets inside of the stem of the coolant sensor and corrodes through the thin wires of the reed switch.
Make sure you get the right one. There are two types of slightly different length, but completely different operation.

Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 12:52 am

"Well, the only lights that are lit up are "BRAKE LIGHTS" and "COOLANT" both of which are fine"

As far as the coolant light is concerned check the position of the sensor attached to the reservoir. Got my 320 back after some work and mine was on, although the tank was nearly full. Spent an hour testing this and that only to find the sensor had been moved.

Set itback to original position and out went the light.

Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 12:58 am

316eyes wrote:"Well, the only lights that are lit up are "BRAKE LIGHTS" and "COOLANT" both of which are fine"

As far as the coolant light is concerned check the position of the sensor attached to the reservoir. Got my 320 back after some work and mine was on, although the tank was nearly full. Spent an hour testing this and that only to find the sensor had been moved.

Set itback to original position and out went the light.

Think you're confusing the coolant resevoir with the screenwash tank. Ther's no way to "move" the coolant sensor.