Door lock problem ?

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zed_head
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Post Tue Mar 01, 2005 1:25 pm

Hi all !
Just bought an '87 325i Sport last weekend. My problem is (one of a few!)
that I can't lock the car.
The passenger door locks fine with the key but the boot door and the driver's door lock won't turn to lock with the key.
Is this a problem with the lock/barrel or is it more to do with the central
locking system ?
Any help is much appreciated !
Cheers,
Mark.

P.S. Can anyone recommend good replacement shocks for the Sport ?
fozzy325is
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Post Tue Mar 01, 2005 1:48 pm

my mate had the same problem with an early sport, take the driver side door card off, at the bottom right of the door there is a central lockin motor thing/pump, move the wire up n down after spraying wd40 and it should free off and problem solved, hope it helps

fozzy
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zed_head
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Post Tue Mar 01, 2005 3:00 pm

Thanks for the info - I'll let you know how it goes.
The key will turn to the right. But when turning the key to the left as in
locking the door, it won't budge. Is that the same problem ?
Thanks again !
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koons
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Post Tue Mar 01, 2005 3:58 pm

hows it going, i have just jointed ye today. i have an e30 too, 316i show car. ever since i bought the car the central locking never worked. i changed the central locking control units around and still nothing. there is a relay plug that is on the same bunch of wires as the central locking control unit. when i put a wire in the power wire and touched it off the other wires in the plug the central locking shot up and down. does anyone know what relay goes in that plug beside the central locking control unit and behind the drivers speaker. i'm looking for the part no. so i can order it from bmw. buy the way did you check the fuse in the fuse box. fuse #27.
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zed_head
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Post Wed Mar 02, 2005 1:20 pm

No, I didn't check that fuse yet but I'll get on the case straight away.
As I only bought it last weekend, I haven't had a lot of time yet to tinker
with it. I hope to make a start on it tomorrow (Thurs).
What year is your 316i ?
Corkman here !
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gazza
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Post Wed Mar 02, 2005 9:00 pm

when i was pulling mine apart i was lead to believe the block was for a relay to delay the interior lights from going off. some cars had the light delay fitted which would explain why its connected to the central locking system . ill wait to see if im proved to be wrong
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Brianmoooore
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Post Wed Mar 02, 2005 10:38 pm

The "relay" beside the central locking ECU is the interior light delay unit, but it has nothing electrically in common with the locking.
If the drivers lock barrel won't turn in the locking direction, then the hinged bit on the back of the barrel has siezed up (fairly common). You need to remove the barrel, unseize it and grease it.
Can't make out from the OP if the boot and driver's door lock from the passenger door or the boot.
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koons
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Post Mon Mar 07, 2005 11:08 pm

could there be anything else besides the barrel. the central locking doesn't work from any door. even the boot. i have to turn the key about 5-6 times before it will go down all the way. the passenger door locks fine and so does the boot. it really baffles me.
my 316i is a 1990. i'd trow up a pic but i don't know how to.
keep it between the ditches!!
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Brianmoooore
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Post Mon Mar 07, 2005 11:40 pm

If there is no action from the central locking at all, check for 12V at the red/black wire on the central locking ECU. Check with a 12V lamp, NOT a meter, and then post again with the result.
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koons
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Post Tue Mar 08, 2005 12:25 am

yea i check power to the central control unit with a test lamp and there is.
keep it between the ditches!!
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Brianmoooore
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Post Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:52 pm

There is a fusible link inside the locking ECU which has probably blown. Not supposed to be reset, but in practice can be. Then you'll have to find out what blew it.
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koons
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Post Tue Mar 08, 2005 7:11 pm

i went back and checked the power again. there is only power to the CLCU when the ignition is on. i have bought another CLCU and still nothing. the old man recons that if i cut the power wire and feed it directly off the battery it should work?
keep it between the ditches!!
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Brianmoooore
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Post Tue Mar 08, 2005 8:10 pm

The power should come directly from permanent live fuse 27, on a red/black wire, via an uneccessary detour into and out of the driver's door.
There is an ignition feed to pin 6 of the lock ECU on a green wire which goes to an internal 5G inertia switch. Could this switch have tripped and be the source of the 12V you are measuring?