Just replaced HG and timing belt. Since then the water temp doesn't show up as anything but cold (it does sit exactly a cold though, not below as it would if ignition were turned off). The car seems to run ok, but can surge on constant throttle (or if in a high gear at alow speed, it will kangaroo a little as it decelerates but its bearable) and it will simply not allow me to rev higher than 4000 rpms - it feels like a limiter.
Anyoneknow whats up?
I've replaced the sensors with others but these don't appear to work either. I'm thinking perhaps I've screwed the wiringsomehow.
ICV looks good, AFM and TPS looks good too. Any idea's?
Temp guage reads nill, rpms don't rise beyond 4.2k
Moderator: martauto
What engine is it?
Rev limiting - could you have got the new belt one tooth out on the timing?
Low temp indication - the T/stat could have failed in the fully open position & the ECU will see a cold engine and put more fuel in. This could explain the surging & Kangaroo effect.
HTH
Iain S
Rev limiting - could you have got the new belt one tooth out on the timing?
Low temp indication - the T/stat could have failed in the fully open position & the ECU will see a cold engine and put more fuel in. This could explain the surging & Kangaroo effect.
HTH
Iain S
It's an M20 2.5 12v
Pretty sure the timing belt is right. We got it a tooth out in the first place and corrected it so I reckon its good. The only thing I'm unsure about is whther or not since the adustments I've made (cleaned out ICV, TPS and removed some vacuum leaks) have affected the timing or not. I have a timing gun what's the correct degree to set to? and what plug is the one I should use for the inductive pickup?
Ooh, thats a point, there is a sensor already on HT #6 which has broken through and is not repairabe - is that actually going to affect running or is it simply a diagnostic tool?
As for thermostat being stuck open... well, the heaters blow very hot - as hot as I would ever wish anyway. What do you think? when does the temp sensor start to register? what temps get it indicating?
Pretty sure the timing belt is right. We got it a tooth out in the first place and corrected it so I reckon its good. The only thing I'm unsure about is whther or not since the adustments I've made (cleaned out ICV, TPS and removed some vacuum leaks) have affected the timing or not. I have a timing gun what's the correct degree to set to? and what plug is the one I should use for the inductive pickup?
Ooh, thats a point, there is a sensor already on HT #6 which has broken through and is not repairabe - is that actually going to affect running or is it simply a diagnostic tool?
As for thermostat being stuck open... well, the heaters blow very hot - as hot as I would ever wish anyway. What do you think? when does the temp sensor start to register? what temps get it indicating?
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Check you've got the plugs for the blue and brown temp sensors the right way around. Didn't think it was possible to get them wrong, but someone on here today has claimed to have done so.
pretty sure they are correct, the sensors and plugs are the same colour and they are connected with the brown plug at the front of the engine and the blue one in the really awkward position right under the fuel rail/plastic loom runner.
Is there any reason for a cut to be introduced at 4k rpms? sounds like a fail safe for something electrical to me - can I do an ECU self test on this car without special tools?
Is there any reason for a cut to be introduced at 4k rpms? sounds like a fail safe for something electrical to me - can I do an ECU self test on this car without special tools?
going to try some of the stuff listed here : http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... t=cut+revs
can't find many related threads though
I'm guessing I have two seperate problems.
can't find many related threads though
I'm guessing I have two seperate problems.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
I think this sensor is just used for diagnostics on very early 325s, but on later ones it's used as a cam position sensor by the ECU. Engine performance will be affected by it being damaged, but not by anything really noticeable.sibzilla wrote:It's
Ooh, thats a point, there is a sensor already on HT #6 which has broken through and is not repairabe - is that actually going to affect running or is it simply a diagnostic tool?
?
Nothing to do with the engine's running in itself, but the lack of temp gauge may be the key to the other problems.
Check first that the brown temp sensor has just one pin, and that the connector on it has just one wire.
Turn the ignition on and use a piece of wire to connect the pin in the connector to a clean piece of the engine block or head. The temp gauge should go to full hot.
My 325 is J reg, so I'm thinking perhaps I should just go buy leads and replace anyway? £70 quid though (eek)
Will try your suggestions with brown sensor - it defo has just one pin but would it affect running (presuming that the blue ECU temp sensor is working correctly)
None the less I don't like to drive with it showing up as cold all the time - it just makes me extremely worried all the time I'm driving.
Will try your suggestions with brown sensor - it defo has just one pin but would it affect running (presuming that the blue ECU temp sensor is working correctly)
None the less I don't like to drive with it showing up as cold all the time - it just makes me extremely worried all the time I'm driving.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
2nd hand lead will be OK
Brown temp sensor won't affect the engine running in the slightest, but it's a relatively simple cicuit and should be easy to sort.
Brown temp sensor won't affect the engine running in the slightest, but it's a relatively simple cicuit and should be easy to sort.
I haven't got leads yet but I decided to see if perhaps the connector (under the TPS/inlet mani) was loose or dirty, but it didnt appear so - anyway I reconnected it and tested the brown temp plug as you said and it guaged up full temp. Plugged it back in expecting nothing (thinking I needed another sensor) and all is fine! very weird. must have been that connector after all.
I think new HT's will smooth out the jerking though
I think new HT's will smooth out the jerking though