Where are they located? Behind the clocks?
And are they a pain to fit?
SI Batteries
Moderator: martauto
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Aico
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 92
- Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2005 11:00 pm
They are a pain to replace. The are at the bottum, below the screen.
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gazza
- E30 Zone Camper

- Posts: 1266
- Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: north london/herts
not too difficult to do but there are 2 types of battery fitted dependant on the age of your car so make sure you have the correct batteries before you start
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scbmw
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 16
- Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Sheffield
Yes they are behind the clock and they are relatively easy to change but are a little fiddly. I found the best way was to remove the steering wheel so it is a lot to access to clock. The fiddly bit comes when you have to find all of the screws and fixings, some are tight underneath. I purchased the batteries from an electronic shop; they are relatively easy to swap, as long as you have a soldering iron. If not ask at the electronics shop as they will always know someone. In total it cost only 4 quid, better than spending eighty on a whole board.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49359
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
To change the SI board batteries you have to remove the instrument cluster, then split it in half by removing all the self tappers on the back.
Put the back half down, without damaging the needles, pull out the white coding plug from the front of the front half, and unscrew a single self tapper holding a white plastic bracket in the middle from the back.
Remove this clip, and be carefull not to loose the mask/ blanking piece for the "check" light.
The SI board can now be eased out of its slots and you will see the batteries, soldered in place in the middle.
If they are 3V lithium batteries, then these do not usually fail, and do not cause problems if they did.
The troublesome ones are the older AA sized 1.2V NiCds, which have a life of no more than about ten years, and tend to go short circuit when they do fail, loading down other things.
If you can use a soldering iron they are easy enough to replace. I use 2/3rd AA tag ended batteries (gives a bit more room) and use NiMH rather than NiCd.
While the cluster is out, tighten the two nuts behind the temp and fuel gauges, and do a forum search on "220 ohm resistor"
Put the back half down, without damaging the needles, pull out the white coding plug from the front of the front half, and unscrew a single self tapper holding a white plastic bracket in the middle from the back.
Remove this clip, and be carefull not to loose the mask/ blanking piece for the "check" light.
The SI board can now be eased out of its slots and you will see the batteries, soldered in place in the middle.
If they are 3V lithium batteries, then these do not usually fail, and do not cause problems if they did.
The troublesome ones are the older AA sized 1.2V NiCds, which have a life of no more than about ten years, and tend to go short circuit when they do fail, loading down other things.
If you can use a soldering iron they are easy enough to replace. I use 2/3rd AA tag ended batteries (gives a bit more room) and use NiMH rather than NiCd.
While the cluster is out, tighten the two nuts behind the temp and fuel gauges, and do a forum search on "220 ohm resistor"
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Geoff
- Old Skooler

- Posts: 695
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Sevenoaks
Thanks guys for all your replies. Some more detailed accounts than others but im sure i'll have it sorted soon!!
Any probs i hope u guys will sort me out!
Any probs i hope u guys will sort me out!
