E30 325i Heater matrix bypass

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Qasimahmed
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Sat Jan 16, 2021 12:47 pm

Hello all

Since I first got my E30 I noticed the heater pipes have been bypassed and a loop has been created for the heater pipes. I understand they had issues with the temp valve and the matrix leaking. What's the best way of diagnosing which is the problem. I'm thinking of reconnecting the lines and checking the temp valve for leaks. Can you see the heater matrix leaking without removing it?

Thanks
Qasim
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Jan 16, 2021 2:00 pm

A small leak in a heater matrix will show itself up when you go to demist the screen. A leaking one will make the problem worse before it improves.
50 leaking valves for every leaking matrix, and a valve that has been leaking is usually fairly obvious, with stains running down the side of it. There are also a couple of O rings in the joints. Could be that simple.
Qasimahmed
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Sat Jan 16, 2021 6:04 pm

Thanks for that Brian. It seems your 100% right. Is it just a 12v positive and negative to activate the valve. Just so I can see if it's working when it's out.
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BenHar
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Sat Jan 16, 2021 6:32 pm

Don't worry about whether the valve actuates or not. It only turns the water flow off when the control is set to minimum.

The main thing that affects the temperature from the outlets is the flap valves which control the air flow.

If you fit o-rings in the valve in place of the diaphragm the water flow will not be shut off but it won't be a problem.

Ben
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Bonymaenjack
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Sat Jan 16, 2021 6:53 pm

If I may , my heater matrix blew just before Xmas and to be honest for the cost of a replacement , if i was messing around with the valve, I'd change that as well
Qasimahmed
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Sat Jan 16, 2021 7:00 pm

Right ok, I'll fit the o ring and reinstall.

If I'm honest I didn't even look at how much a matrix costs but I guess if I'm there, I might as well replace it if it's not too expensive.

Thanks a lot
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Bonymaenjack
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Sat Jan 16, 2021 7:43 pm

Qasimahmed wrote:
Sat Jan 16, 2021 7:00 pm
Right ok, I'll fit the o ring and reinstall.

If I'm honest I didn't even look at how much a matrix costs but I guess if I'm there, I might as well replace it if it's not too expensive.

Thanks a lot
They do vary in price, I bought mine from Amazon and it was £28, a Nissens 70501 , The one I replaced was OEM and the main body of which is plastic split open discharging its contents everywhere inside the dashboard. ( I'm still putting everything back to together, the car's park up for the winter atm) )
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Jan 16, 2021 7:47 pm

As ever, with failure of the valve or matrix, check that your coolant bottle pressure cap has been replaced by the modified type.
Qasimahmed
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Sat Jan 16, 2021 9:18 pm

That was one of the first things I did check, it does have the new cap installed. I can't remember what pressure rating was on the cap but I do remember it being the correct one.
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Jan 16, 2021 10:27 pm

It's the 1.4 bar ones that were recalled. 14 on the cap.
MunsterScot
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Sun Jan 17, 2021 10:43 am

Not wanting to hijack the thread but what pressure rating should the cap be? I've got the one with 14 on it so will look at changing it as I've also got the heater matrix bypassed just now as it leaks.

In the E30 WIKI it says "For that reason, BMW introduced a new pressure cap, rated at 1.4 bar. If there's a chance that your car is still running its original tank cap, take your VIN to BMW and claim your new, free tank cap."
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Brianmoooore
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Sun Jan 17, 2021 10:53 am

The rating of the cap depends on the age and model of your E30. Early stuff used a lower pressure, and the iS uses a higher pressure, but the vast majority of E30s use a 1.4 bar cap. Most, but not all, of the uprated caps have a yellow disc on their underside.
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martauto
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Sun Jan 17, 2021 2:21 pm

does this apply to the M10 engines Brian ?

Mart.
Only the E46 cab left now.
Just got too old.
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Brianmoooore
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Mon Jan 18, 2021 2:01 pm

martauto wrote:
Sun Jan 17, 2021 2:21 pm
does this apply to the M10 engines Brian ?

Mart.
No, M10 cooling system operates at a lower pressure. It's a very old design (1930s?), updated by the strange thermostat hanging on the hoses.
Qasimahmed
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Tue Jan 19, 2021 9:22 pm

Anyone have any ideas as to removing the 2 bolts on the back of the heater matrix outlet. It's quite close to the bulkhead with limited space.

Thanks
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Brianmoooore
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Tue Jan 19, 2021 9:34 pm

From the engine bay with a 1/4" socket on an extension. Push the extension through the grommet from the engine side, then fit the socket.
For the cross head screw where the brake quadrant bracket gets in the way, use a cross head bit of the type that fits in a drill holder, and turn it with a 6mm (preferably ratchet) spanner
Qasimahmed
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Sun Jan 24, 2021 5:51 pm

Thanks a lot Brian that's how I finally got it out, needed someone to help from the engine side of things but all sorted now.
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Bonymaenjack
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Sun Jan 24, 2021 8:10 pm

Qasimahmed wrote:
Sun Jan 24, 2021 5:51 pm
Thanks a lot Brian that's how I finally got it out, needed someone to help from the engine side of things but all sorted now.
Too late now , but I cut down a 6mm spanner which worked ok ,My problem is realigning the brake clevis arm to reconnect the brake linkage to the rear of the servo
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Brianmoooore
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Sun Jan 24, 2021 8:51 pm

Turn the rod until they line up, drop the pin in, then adjust.
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Bonymaenjack
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Sun Jan 24, 2021 9:22 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
Sun Jan 24, 2021 8:51 pm
Turn the rod until they line up, drop the pin in, then adjust.
This is the second time I've replaced a matrix , and the first time|I had no bother with refitting the linkage ,this time I've adjusted the clevis at the servo end but now the pedal is higher than the other two, Will the rod itself turn within the clevis to bring the pedal back down ?
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Brianmoooore
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Sun Jan 24, 2021 9:25 pm

The rod has a LH tread at one end and a RH thread at the other. It's the only bit you should be adjusting.
There's a locknut on it to slacken first, and two small flats on it near the clutch pedal, for a small OE spanner.
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Bonymaenjack
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Mon Jan 25, 2021 5:29 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
Sun Jan 24, 2021 9:25 pm
The rod has a LH tread at one end and a RH thread at the other. It's the only bit you should be adjusting.
There's a locknut on it to slacken first, and two small flats on it near the clutch pedal, for a small OE spanner.
Cheers Brian
To to do it properly do I slacken both ends or will one suffice ?
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Brianmoooore
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Mon Jan 25, 2021 6:30 pm

There's only one locknut.
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Bonymaenjack
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Mon Jan 25, 2021 7:27 pm

One lock nut but a clevis at both ends ? l'll have a look next time I'm in the sons garage. I know I didn't have any problem the 1st time so its must be me .

Cheers
Qasimahmed
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Tue Jan 26, 2021 8:46 pm

Just for anyone who is going to remove the heater matrix. I removed the bracket for the abs pivot spring and then removed the clevis on the brake booster side. After that the matrix came out quite easily. New one went in just as well.
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