Good evening , I posted earlier regarding my heater matrix springing a leak , I wasn't with the car when it blew but my son was and noted copious amounts of water and steam inside the cabin. I've replaced the matrix and am in the process of refitting everything back.
The OBC is functioning but the information displayed is erratic, not staying still and coming up with unrecognisable information. I removed it and dried it out using a hair dryer but with the same results I'm wondering if the SI board has been affected as well as the fuel, techo and temperature are functioning normally but occasionally the fuel economy gauge (at idle) moved from 0 to 10 and back.
I've measured the Si Batteries which show 0.9 v per battery , is that voltage low enough to cause the problems I'm experiencing. Edit , just found a clip, mine is a 13 button but the symptoms are the same
Thanks
OBC SI Board
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Bonymaenjack
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Bump , any advice would be appreciated .
Thanks
Thanks
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Brianmoooore
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Si board batteries should be replaced without delay, but I doubt if that's the problem.
The U tube clip looks like a problem with the conductive foam pad connecting the circuit board to the display. Removing the display and pad, then carefully reassembling usually provides a cure.
The U tube clip looks like a problem with the conductive foam pad connecting the circuit board to the display. Removing the display and pad, then carefully reassembling usually provides a cure.
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Bonymaenjack
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Double post
Last edited by Bonymaenjack on Sat Nov 21, 2020 7:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Bonymaenjack
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Brianmoooore wrote: ↑Sat Nov 21, 2020 2:26 pmSi board batteries should be replaced without delay, but I doubt if that's the problem.
The U tube clip looks like a problem with the conductive foam pad connecting the circuit board to the display. Removing the display and pad, then carefully reassembling usually provides a cure.
Cheers Brian.Brianmoooore wrote: ↑Sat Nov 21, 2020 2:26 pmSi board batteries should be replaced without delay, but I doubt if that's the problem.
The U tube clip looks like a problem with the conductive foam pad connecting the circuit board to the display. Removing the display and pad, then carefully reassembling usually provides a cure.
Having not replaced the batteries before would you recommend a low temperature soldering iron and at what temperature should i set it to ? I'm conscious of the circuitry and would hate to damage it
https://www.wish.com/product/593fba351c ... &share=web
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Brianmoooore
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There's little chance of damaging anything with the soldering iron if you exercise reasonable care. My soldering iron is a bog standard Antex XS25. 25W and non adjustable or controlled.
A solder sucker (spring loaded syringe) is useful to remove most of the solder before removing the old batteries.
Note that the batteries are either 1.2 volt rechargeable or 3 volt non rechargeable, and must be replaced by the same type, although NiMH can be used in place of NiCd.
A solder sucker (spring loaded syringe) is useful to remove most of the solder before removing the old batteries.
Note that the batteries are either 1.2 volt rechargeable or 3 volt non rechargeable, and must be replaced by the same type, although NiMH can be used in place of NiCd.
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Bonymaenjack
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I'll be replacing Sanyo 14250SE 3V x 2 , and I've just ordered a solder pump , the trouble with my existing soldering iron is that it only has a flat tip rather than a pin tip which I think is too wide for the task .Brianmoooore wrote: ↑Sat Nov 21, 2020 8:03 pmThere's little chance of damaging anything with the soldering iron if you exercise reasonable care. My soldering iron is a bog standard Antex XS25. 25W and non adjustable or controlled.
A solder sucker (spring loaded syringe) is useful to remove most of the solder before removing the old batteries.
Note that the batteries are either 1.2 volt rechargeable or 3 volt non rechargeable, and must be replaced by the same type, although NiMH can be used in place of NiCd.
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Brianmoooore
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That's the 3 volt Manganese dioxide - lithium non rechargeable ones. These should last forever, as long as the car has its 12 volt battery in place and connected.
They are FDK 14250SE now. FDK have taken over Sanyo's battery manufacturing, and make sure you get the type with the correct tags.
They are FDK 14250SE now. FDK have taken over Sanyo's battery manufacturing, and make sure you get the type with the correct tags.
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Bonymaenjack
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I was going to order theseBrianmoooore wrote: ↑Sat Nov 21, 2020 8:34 pmThat's the 3 volt Manganese dioxide - lithium non rechargeable ones. These should last forever, as long as the car has its 12 volt battery in place and connected.
They are FDK 14250SE now. FDK have taken over Sanyo's battery manufacturing, and make sure you get the type with the correct tags.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FDK-Sanyo-CR ... SwEYZfbFUL
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Brianmoooore
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That's the correct ones. About three times the price they should be, but the postage is included. I buy them from Reichelt, but the postage is high for small orders, and they take a while to arrive.
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Bonymaenjack
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I did consider Reichelt but as you say the postage was high and I would like to get this particular task completed , as the list of things to do is growing instead of reducing,Brianmoooore wrote: ↑Sat Nov 21, 2020 9:07 pmThat's the correct ones. About three times the price they should be, but the postage is included. I buy them from Reichelt, but the postage is high for small orders, and they take a while to arrive.
