Boring washer pump question

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kdevitt
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Post Sun Aug 30, 2020 8:51 pm

My washer jets weren't working when I got the car - it was one of those things that got added to a long list of jobs. The connectors were getting power, so just ordered new pump. This worked, kind of - needed me to hold the stalk for about 5 seconds before any washer fluid hit the windscreen, and then worked ok after that.

Fast forward to today and I'm getting the car ready for its NCT (MOT) and they're only working intermittently. Again, I seemed to need to hold the stalk for ages before anything happens, if at all.

Had a look at the connectors again - my constant 12V is fine it appears. The 12V / ground cable is showing a voltage as expected - pull the stalk and it takes ages to ground. Its like watching a countdown timer on the multimeter - gradually reaches 0V, wipers kick in and the pump runs.

Am I right in thinking that this should be switching straight to 0V?
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fixedwheelnut
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Post Sun Aug 30, 2020 10:06 pm

Yes it should switch instantly, if you look at the side of the switch with the cowling off you can usually just see the contacts, cleaning them with a small rat tail file could be enough to see you through your MOT
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Contours
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Post Mon Aug 31, 2020 2:03 am

I had the same issue where these contacts were not making proper contact when activating the switch. Temporarily, I cut a small piece of plastic and placed it behind one of the contacts to push it out so the switch making contact is closer and not over extended. This was about five years ago and has worked perfectly ever since so may become a permanent fix.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Mon Aug 31, 2020 10:35 am

One possibility not mentioned above is that the washer switch (and headlamp flasher, and ultimately the horn push) both get their earth connection through the steering column outer tube to the body. The top fixings of the column tube are insulated, as is the column itself (at the flexible joint under the bonnet), so the sole connection point is the bottom clamp in the footwell, which needs to be electrically sound.
kdevitt
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Post Mon Aug 31, 2020 11:46 am

Brianmoooore wrote:
Mon Aug 31, 2020 10:35 am
One possibility not mentioned above is that the washer switch (and headlamp flasher, and ultimately the horn push) both get their earth connection through the steering column outer tube to the body. The top fixings of the column tube are insulated, as is the column itself (at the flexible joint under the bonnet), so the sole connection point is the bottom clamp in the footwell, which needs to be electrically sound.
Would that impact the horn from working? I did have an issue with the horn not working previously and tracked it down to the steering column, I think I loaded up the column with WD40 through the top of the column and it eventually started working again.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Mon Aug 31, 2020 2:23 pm

kdevitt wrote:
Mon Aug 31, 2020 11:46 am
Would that impact the horn from working? I did have an issue with the horn not working previously and tracked it down to the steering column, I think I loaded up the column with WD40 through the top of the column and it eventually started working again.
The common problem with the horn is the electrical connection between the inner steering column and the outer tube. Again, this is all insulated from each other at the top by a plastic bush, and electrical conduction is through the ball bearing near the bottom of the column. It gets a bit dry and dirt builds up on the balls, insulating the inner race from the outer. Your WD40 must have run all the way down into the bearing, but sprating up the column from inside the engine bay is the usual way, followed by some spray grease.
kdevitt
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Post Mon Aug 31, 2020 3:43 pm

Took the stalk out a few minutes ago to see if there was an obvious issue - which there was. When I was fitting the cruise control, the threaded insert on the stalk came away, which required an improvised solution - I jammed a bolt inside the cruise stalk, and secured both the cruise and wiper stalk with a small bolt through both. This works pretty well - but has the tiniest bit of play in it. As a result, it wasn't exactly securely grounded.

Just used the grounding point on the other side and its working perfectly now - apart from the connector for the pump itself crapping itself and falling apart - I have it working, just need to order the proper connectors now.