Just wanna check my timing is spot on . I understand the cam has a square at the front and needs to be at right angles to the head matting surface of the camshaft cover , which i will be removing . rather than go under the car and push a rod in the hole in the bell housing and finding a hole in the flywheel . My question is . Is it ok to use a tool specially designed to locate t,d,c , its pencil like, screws into the No1 cylinder has a shaft inside , then you connect a dial gauge up in the top . ( i,d load a photo if i knew how too. ) and obviously turn engine until the piston reaches the very highest point of travel on the compression stroke , both valves closed and rotor points to No1 spark plug lead ( as soon as the dial starts to fall back you know you,ve reached t.d.c ) and thoughts , would that be more accurate than sticking metal rod in, well you know what I mean.
thanks in advance Paul
m40 checking timing valves , pistons
Moderator: martauto
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49359
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Dial gauge will be the most accurate, but a locking pin in the flywheel won't be far behind. Why do you think you won't find the hole in the flywheel? No need to go under the car - it can be reached from above.
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arrisbmw
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 466
- Joined: Sat May 06, 2017 11:00 pm
right ok, didn't realise you can get to it from above . i,ll have to look for it on the inlet side I understand towards the bulk head ? .
is it good enough just to use a 8 mm steel rod. or do i need the special locking tool.
thanks Brian much appreciated. I was hoping you might reply.
is it good enough just to use a 8 mm steel rod. or do i need the special locking tool.
thanks Brian much appreciated. I was hoping you might reply.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49359
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
There's a substantial web on the engine block right below the starter motor, and a similar one just above where the sump bolts up to, on the inlet side. There's a small space between these webs, where you will find the hole for the locking pin. There should be a plastic plug with a large tab on it blocking the hole, but this may have gone missing. If it's there, it just pulls out.
A 8mm drill bit is the easiest thing to use as a locking pin, but using a 7mm bit first helps get the flywheel position approximately right, before swapping for a 8mm.
DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE IT AFTERWARDS.
A 8mm drill bit is the easiest thing to use as a locking pin, but using a 7mm bit first helps get the flywheel position approximately right, before swapping for a 8mm.
DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE IT AFTERWARDS.
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arrisbmw
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 466
- Joined: Sat May 06, 2017 11:00 pm
updt. yes did check the timing via the hole as mentoned above . timing was spot on , so it seems a bit if a waste of time except ,i took the time to change the spark plugs trying NGK ,S i did notice the ohm reading on the central elctrode was a lot lower 1.40 ish k compared to the bosch 4,8 k I took out.
don,t know if this will make any difference in general running. and cleaned the inside of dizzy cap and rotor too.
don,t know if this will make any difference in general running. and cleaned the inside of dizzy cap and rotor too.
