Wonder if anyone can advise! I have fuel in my engine oil - when you open oil cap strong smell of fuel - and the exhaust fumes smell very rich - on top of this I have slight stumbling hesitatation when revving up.
I stupidly bought a manifold with injectors and loom - only to find out I have the early high compression prefaclift engine- which I can't swap overa˜•
Any advice most appreciated. Would it be possible to just swap injectors ? What's cause if the fuel into engine ?
325i E30 - fuel in engine oil!!
Moderator: martauto
Hi,
I'm not really experienced with this but just done I quick search online. Hope this helps you out.
"Excess fuel pressure can cause the car to run rich, as can a bad O2 sensor, a leaky fuel pressure regulator, a kinked fuel return hose, and other items. The fact that your oil level increases and smells of fuel means that the excess fuel is washing past the piston rings and into the crankcase. So as well as fixing the cause of the excess fuel, you now likely need piston rings.....and the bearings aren't going to be very happy, being fed gasoline, either."
Could be down to a bad thermostat, coolant temp sensor or leaky injector? Might want to check these things mentioned.
I'm not really experienced with this but just done I quick search online. Hope this helps you out.
"Excess fuel pressure can cause the car to run rich, as can a bad O2 sensor, a leaky fuel pressure regulator, a kinked fuel return hose, and other items. The fact that your oil level increases and smells of fuel means that the excess fuel is washing past the piston rings and into the crankcase. So as well as fixing the cause of the excess fuel, you now likely need piston rings.....and the bearings aren't going to be very happy, being fed gasoline, either."
Could be down to a bad thermostat, coolant temp sensor or leaky injector? Might want to check these things mentioned.
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jonathanyeah
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2015 11:00 pm
Pull the vacuum line off the FPR and see if any fuel comes out. If so, the diaphragm inside has gone. This will leak fuel into your manifold.
Also, leaking injectors. Get them refurbished or replace with new. If they haven't been done before they will want doing anyway. Made a huge difference when I had mine done.
Also, leaking injectors. Get them refurbished or replace with new. If they haven't been done before they will want doing anyway. Made a huge difference when I had mine done.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Most of the above, especially the coolant temp. sensor, checked at the ECU plug.
There's only minor, easily resolved, problem using the later wiring loom, etc., on an early engine. What problem did you encounter?
There's only minor, easily resolved, problem using the later wiring loom, etc., on an early engine. What problem did you encounter?
the round plug- is shorter at the connection point from visual checks. My temp switch was new from Euro car parts only done 1k miles in two years? Better to get original? Going to change my fuel expansion tank too- as my current one is faulty building pressure in my tank.Brianmoooore wrote:Most of the above, especially the coolant temp. sensor, checked at the ECU plug.
There's only minor, easily resolved, problem using the later wiring loom, etc., on an early engine. What problem did you encounter?
Wonder if it's linked ??
The reason you should check resistance at the ECU, is that there is a plug under the inlet which connects to the temp sensor and has a habit of getting corroded connectors, therefore giving incorrect readings to the ECU causing it to over fuel.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
The connectors themselves can corrode, but the main problem is the copper of the wires to the bottom half can corrode completely away inside the insulation.maxfield wrote:....has a habit of getting corroded connectors, .....
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
The quickest and easiest way to turn a simple problem into a complex problem that defies diagnosis, is to randomly change parts that may or may not be serviceable. You risk fitting incorrect parts, faulty parts, and disturbing slightly dodgy connections, that may well be still making good contact, but won't after being moved.
I'm sure that the full testing procedure is detailed in the wiki somewhere.
If the plug/socket/wiring under the inlet manifold is still in good condition, there was a TIS issued by BMW to prevent problems developing.
The extremely complex and sophisticated 'fix', is to take a pair of side cutters, and take a small 'V' shaped nick out of the lower rubber boot at its lowest point, so that any water that gets in from higher up has somewhere to drain out.
I'm sure that the full testing procedure is detailed in the wiki somewhere.
If the plug/socket/wiring under the inlet manifold is still in good condition, there was a TIS issued by BMW to prevent problems developing.
The extremely complex and sophisticated 'fix', is to take a pair of side cutters, and take a small 'V' shaped nick out of the lower rubber boot at its lowest point, so that any water that gets in from higher up has somewhere to drain out.