hi chaps when i turn my heater control nothing is happening i checked the fuse and its ok? what could it be? my car is 320 auto cabby
thanks
heaters not working
Moderator: martauto
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MPOWERCRAZY
- E30 Zone Regular
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- Location: Birmingham
Hi,
It sounds like your resistor has failed.
It sounds like your resistor has failed.
Back Again From The Darkside Of Doing E36'S 
Back With 2 E30 Projects
Back With 2 E30 Projects
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puregttipower
- E30 Zone Newbie
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- Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:00 pm
thanks, could it be anything else?
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maxfield
- Old Skooler
- Posts: 15186
- Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Mansfield
Could also be a seized motor.
Aswell as a wiring etc.
Have a look in the wiki pretty sure there is a guide on fault finding the heater motor.
Aswell as a wiring etc.
Have a look in the wiki pretty sure there is a guide on fault finding the heater motor.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Your heater control is the rotary knob with the red and blue scale. All that you should hear when this is turned is the sound of a flap moving in the heater box.
Or do you mean the FAN control? If you don't give accurate descriptions of faults, then you won't get accurate or useful replies.
Or do you mean the FAN control? If you don't give accurate descriptions of faults, then you won't get accurate or useful replies.
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puregttipower
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 116
- Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:00 pm
sorry its the actual heater dial i.e which controls 1234 heater settings, so basically i got no heat at the minute
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
In that case, it's NOT the heater dial - it's the fan that's not working. In it's current state you will get plenty of heat from the heater if you drive at speed, but none when you stop or drive slowly, since there is no fan assistance to the airflow through the heater box.
The fan motor is the usual cause of the problem, having nearly seized after around 30 years of no lubrication. Most can be successfully revived if removed from the car, the bearings freed up with WD40 or similar, then lubricated with light oil, while the motor is powered up, still out of the car, from an external battery.
The heater resistor/overload cut out, may or may not have been damaged by the high current drawn by the seizing motor, but the motor will be the primary fult.
The fan motor is the usual cause of the problem, having nearly seized after around 30 years of no lubrication. Most can be successfully revived if removed from the car, the bearings freed up with WD40 or similar, then lubricated with light oil, while the motor is powered up, still out of the car, from an external battery.
The heater resistor/overload cut out, may or may not have been damaged by the high current drawn by the seizing motor, but the motor will be the primary fult.