Basically, as per the title.
My car unlocks but only if you turn the key clockwise while pulling at the handle. The door then does not unlock from inside on either door. Climbing out my window isn't ideal and if my electric windows failed I would then be sat inside a car with no way out. Not ideal.
Any thoughts on what/why this is happening?
Also I can't unlock my passenger side door at all. Or boot. Or as a result fuel filler flap.
Cheers,
James.
Total lock failure.
Moderator: martauto
-
Speedtouch
- Old Skooler

- Posts: 14123
- Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Canterbury
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
-
noddynomad
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 8
- Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2014 11:00 pm
I've read that but it doesn't mention total failure. Surely I should be able to at least unlock the car from the pull buttons even if the electrics had gone?
Cheers.
Cheers.
-
Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49360
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
If it's been unlocked from the outside, the driver's door should always open from inside. If not, there's a mechanical fault with the linkage.
If the central locking fails when the dead locks are set, then you won't be able to open any of the other doors from inside or out, but the boot should still open with the correct (not valet) key, and the petrol flap should be able to be released manually.
If the boot and petrol flap can't be released at all, then the lock motors have probably been burnt out in the locked position, by having power continuously applied to them by a faulty locking ECU.
Usual cause of this is flooding of the ECU, caused by blocked sill drains.
Do the red/black wire modification as a matter of course, then check that there is power at the ECU plug by connecting a 12 volt bulb between the red/black wire and the brown wire.
Next, open up the locking ECU, and check whether the soldered spring next to a resistor has sprung open.
If the central locking fails when the dead locks are set, then you won't be able to open any of the other doors from inside or out, but the boot should still open with the correct (not valet) key, and the petrol flap should be able to be released manually.
If the boot and petrol flap can't be released at all, then the lock motors have probably been burnt out in the locked position, by having power continuously applied to them by a faulty locking ECU.
Usual cause of this is flooding of the ECU, caused by blocked sill drains.
Do the red/black wire modification as a matter of course, then check that there is power at the ECU plug by connecting a 12 volt bulb between the red/black wire and the brown wire.
Next, open up the locking ECU, and check whether the soldered spring next to a resistor has sprung open.
