Different Problems

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woerie938
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Tue May 06, 2014 4:52 pm

I have a Little oil leak at the sensor on the outtake side of the engineblock. I think it is the Oil pressure sensor? I don't know if this is a common problem for E30's. But that should be fixed easely.

And I got some electrical problems in the dash.

My Temp gauge, Fuel gauge, and the tachometer aren't working. The Speedometer and the km's I have driven gauge (sorry for my english) do work, the econometer doesn't work either.
Also my heaterblower won't work.

I read somewhere on the Wiki that there is some sort of batterie in the Dash cluster. Coul'd that be it??
My temp gauge stopt working in the past but later it worked again. And now all these things don't work anymore. I'm actually not sure if the heater and the things in the dash cluster stopt working at the same time. It could be different problems.

I also recently did an engine swap. From 2.3 to 2.0 motronic, but that should'nt have anything to do with it cause I already had these problems before the swap.
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Brianmoooore
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Tue May 06, 2014 5:19 pm

Temp. gauge, tachometer and econometer can fall victim to dud SI board batteries in the instrument cluster, but it doesn't normally affect the fuel gauge.
Do the service interval lights work properly?
The heater problem could be related to the engine swap. Are you sure it gave problems before the change? Do the door mirrors work?
Oil pressure switch leak is fairly common.
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woerie938
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Tue May 06, 2014 9:59 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:Temp. gauge, tachometer and econometer can fall victim to dud SI board batteries in the instrument cluster, but it doesn't normally affect the fuel gauge.
Do the service interval lights work properly?
The heater problem could be related to the engine swap. Are you sure it gave problems before the change? Do the door mirrors work?
Oil pressure switch leak is fairly common.
No, The service interval lights don't work properly. But they where always flashing around. But I believe they don't work at all now. I'll check tomorrow. And, the electric door mirror does'nt work.

And I'm sure the heater didn't work before the swap.
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Brianmoooore
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Tue May 06, 2014 10:08 pm

Time to take the cluster out, open it up, take out the SI board from the front half, and check the batteries. Note that there are two versions of the board - one has two 3V non rechargeable lithium batteries, and the other has two 1.2V NiCd rechargeable ones.

Take out relay K7 in the fusebox, identify pins 30 and 87 of its socket (marked on the relay) and use a short piece of wire to link together these two pins of the socket.
Does the heater fan and the mirrors work now?
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woerie938
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Tue May 06, 2014 10:38 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:Time to take the cluster out, open it up, take out the SI board from the front half, and check the batteries. Note that there are two versions of the board - one has two 3V non rechargeable lithium batteries, and the other has two 1.2V NiCd rechargeable ones.

Take out relay K7 in the fusebox, identify pins 30 and 87 of its socket (marked on the relay) and use a short piece of wire to link together these two pins of the socket.
Does the heater fan and the mirrors work now?
I'll check it soon.

But about the batteries, Are these like normal batteries like the ones you put in A remote controller for the tv etc... ?
Or do I have to get A new (other) cluster and can't put some new batteries in it.
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Brianmoooore
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Tue May 06, 2014 10:58 pm

The NiCd batteries are similar to 'normal' AA rechargeable batteries, but have tags on the end of them that solder to the circuit board, but these, and the lithium version are readilly available from the likes of CPC Farnell or RS Components.
If the batteries have leaked and corroded the circuit board, you will need a replacement anyway, but I'd still fit new batteries to that before fitting it. The NiCd batteries only have a life of seven or eight years or so.
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woerie938
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Wed May 07, 2014 5:40 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:Time to take the cluster out, open it up, take out the SI board from the front half, and check the batteries. Note that there are two versions of the board - one has two 3V non rechargeable lithium batteries, and the other has two 1.2V NiCd rechargeable ones.

Take out relay K7 in the fusebox, identify pins 30 and 87 of its socket (marked on the relay) and use a short piece of wire to link together these two pins of the socket.
Does the heater fan and the mirrors work now?
I connected the two pins in the socket But it didn't affected anything. What I forgot to tell, all the instruments including the heater do work while starting the car But when the car runs it Doesn't and when the engine is out it won't work either.
Jona1971
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Wed May 07, 2014 9:11 pm

I've got a pair of SI batteries if you need them. They're the uprated version (NiMH) and AA size.

(when I took my instrument panel apart I found I have the smaller size so no good to me).

Let me know, and good luck.
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Brianmoooore
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Wed May 07, 2014 9:34 pm

The heater, etc, shouldn't work when the engine is out, or when starting the car, which suggests you have something odd with the wiring of the unloader relay control wire.
Are you absolutely sure you connected 30 and 87 together properly and on the correct relay?
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