Not Starting - Fuel Issue?

[jcampbell120]

Hi,

Can't get my car to start after sitting for a long time (about a year) and changing the head.

It's a 1987 320i Pre-facelift. The engine cranks and there is spark at the plugs and fuel gets into the fuel rail (checked the return from the FPR - squirts out of there).

The plugs are wet after cranking but it doesn't fire.

I have sprayed starter fluid into the air box and it starts and idles for about 3-5 seconds and then dies.

I have read lots of suggestions on various posts and wiki guides, they vary from checking injectors, to fuel pressure, fuel pump etc.

If anybody can suggest what to do first/next that would be brilliant.

Thanks.

[Grrrmachine]

It wouldn't surprise me if you had an air leak, meaning your air/fuel mix isn't right, leading to flooding. So check all the rubber hoses on the intake side of things.

If you've read the Wiki you should also know the importance of TESTING the blue temp sensor.

[jcampbell120]

Thanks for the rapid response. I didn't think that a vacuum leak would cause such a dramatic issue, I would have thought that it would start but idle erratically.

I had a quick check (its raining hard!) for vacuum leaks, just visually and found one. A small vacuum hose running to the distributor (number 7 in the image) has a large split in it, almost detaching itself from the nipple.



Would such a small leak cause a no start?

I will change the hose and check the blue plug when the weather isn't permanently set at rain; and see how it goes.

[Grrrmachine]

A car that's been sat for a while, with old stale fuel and filters of unknown condition, can easily not start from a vacuum leak. I don't have any experience with these older engines with distributors though - I thought they were all phased out in 1985, so one in your 1987 is an oddity for me. You may find that you have a weak spark from that.

[Speedtouch]

Yes, a vacuum leak won't be helping things - that's going to the vacuum advance diaphragm on the distributor.

Another notorious weak spot on these is the Air slide valve, which seize up:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... lide_Valve

Try spraying some brake/carb cleaner down the throttle body while cranking it over.

[Miguel320]

Did you put the timing belt correctly?
Apart from camshaft and crankshaft pulleys, you have to put the oil pump pulley in the right place as this pulley moves the distributor.
Check it. This only hapens in prefacelift M20 models.

[jcampbell120]

I did get the engine running (bit lumpy) after the head replacement. I left it for a while and did a valve clearance adjustment, and then thats where the troubles really began.

Thanks for the info on the distributor, I knew that it moved around, but perhaps I haven't been diligent enough.

I will check my timing marks again, on the distributor, camshaft and crankshaft. - That picture is really useful.
I have a new crankcase breather hose and big air boot (both had splits in) being delivered tomorrow. - Will replace those.

Would like the rains in the south of England to stop at some point though, might start building an ark instead of getting my car to fire again.