High temp Needle

Post Tue Dec 31, 2013 6:55 pm

316 Baur 1987 M10

After changing the stat a few weeks ago all was well with the needle at half way but I only did @15 miles or so and the heater was poor.

Out in her again today for @ 30 mins on and off and the needle was at 3/4`s at the most so I came home. The stat hosing was hot but the bottom hose was cool so out it came and into a pan of water. It seemed fine so back in it went and up to half way again but not on the road and the heater was crap as well.

Am I bleeding this right or can you throw any ideas my way please?

Cheers, Mart.

Post Tue Dec 31, 2013 7:15 pm

All sounds like an engine that isn't bled properly.
Try pulling off the top heater hose at the bulkhead then replacing it while coolant is flowing from both the pipe and the stub.

Post Tue Dec 31, 2013 7:20 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:All sounds like an engine that isn't bled properly.
Try pulling off the top heater hose at the bulkhead then replacing it while coolant is flowing from both the pipe and the stub.

In the morning Brian and thanks mate.
Happy new year

Mart.

Post Tue Dec 31, 2013 11:04 pm

vacuum bleeder”¦saves all the pain.

Post Wed Jan 01, 2014 7:01 am

New stat put in facing the correct way?
There is also a small arrow on the stat that needs to face upwards.

I presume this is an M40?
The M40 you need to bleed with the front raised...either facing uphill or on jacks.

Switch heater on and run up to reasonable temperature.
Switch off and bleed the metal screw on the thermostat housing..too dangerous to do with engine running!

Then with engine running bleed out the large black plastic screw on the plastic expansion tank

Allow to cool down overnight, top up coolant to the "cool' level and repeat the procedure a few times.

Post Wed Jan 01, 2014 8:01 am

martauto wrote:316 Baur 1987 M10

Billwill,please note!

Post Sat Jan 04, 2014 7:57 am

Brianmoooore wrote: Try pulling off the top heater hose at the bulkhead then replacing it while coolant is flowing from both the pipe and the stub.

Although mines an M20. ^This method works every time on mine.

Post Sat Jan 04, 2014 10:16 am

daimlerman wrote:
martauto wrote:316 Baur 1987 M10

Billwill,please note!

I did not see that....OP must have done a quick Ninja edit!

Either that or I am getting old!

Post Fri Jan 10, 2014 6:22 pm

G-Bear wrote:
Brianmoooore wrote: Try pulling off the top heater hose at the bulkhead then replacing it while coolant is flowing from both the pipe and the stub.
Although mines an M20. ^This method works every time on mine.

Is this when the engine is cold ? I know but I have to ask.

Mart.

Post Fri Jan 10, 2014 8:05 pm

I wouldn't advise it with the engine hot, unless you have heat resistant hands! Releasing the pressure on super heated coolant when you are within range is not recommended.

Post Fri Jan 10, 2014 9:59 pm

Like I had to say I had to ask

Mart.

Post Sat Jan 11, 2014 12:20 am

Yep when it's cools. It's only to let trapped air out. Gravity shall help you out fine..

Post Sat Jan 11, 2014 12:29 am

G-Bear wrote: Gravity shall help you out fine..

You might need to fill the coolant reservoir to the brim, or, in the case of M20 bottles, pull the overflow tube in from its hole in the inner wing, take off the pressure cap, put a hand flat across the neck of the bottle, put the end of the overflow tube in your mouth and gently blow.