hoe far can i strip a diff for painting?

Post Mon Oct 14, 2013 9:48 pm

How far can I strip the diff. I have taken the back plate off and popped the output flanges off but can I also take the flanges behind the pop out drive shaft flanges off too? Or will it disturb anything I don't want to, like shims to the bearing or somthing like that, the rest of the diff is good but I'd like to strip these off paint them and replace the bolts that hold them to the main casing.

Thanks Matt

Post Mon Oct 14, 2013 10:07 pm

The sides come out quite easily Matt, just clean around them as much as poss before to limit the amount of crud that becomes detached, dont want it dropping in. Obviously make sure they go back as they came off
The only part not to touch on the outside is the input flange nut

Post Mon Oct 14, 2013 10:19 pm

Matt, I stripped mine down and then sent it to Gareth for a full rebuild and overhaul (with him now)...if your looking to keep it the car and have already removed the diff this seems like the idea tim to get it overhauled...

food for thought.

Post Tue Oct 15, 2013 7:36 am

I did speak to Gareth before about a rebuild when I had a 3.91 plate type LSD but this one is a Torsen one from what me Dan think is a Z3 so isn't in bad nick mechanically but I just wanted to paint it up on the flanges which always seam to look dirty.

Post Tue Oct 15, 2013 10:15 am

Put it all back together and stick it in an electrolysis tank for a few days, with the vent just above the water level. Use a couple of small supplementary anodes as well as the main ones to get into the more hidden corners.
Take it out, scrub off the black residue, and it'll be all ready for paint.
Probably a good idea to drain the oil afterwards, just in case some water has got in via the vent.

Post Tue Oct 15, 2013 10:53 am

Brianmoooore wrote:Put it all back together and stick it in an electrolysis tank for a few days, with the vent just above the water level. Use a couple of small supplementary anodes as well as the main ones to get into the more hidden corners.
Take it out, scrub off the black residue, and it'll be all ready for paint.
Probably a good idea to drain the oil afterwards, just in case some water has got in via the vent.

I second this, who knew soda crystals were so useful?

I have an old ibc in the yard that I've cut an opening into for larger parts like rear beams.

Post Tue Oct 15, 2013 1:53 pm

march109 wrote:
Brianmoooore wrote:Put it all back together and stick it in an electrolysis tank for a few days, with the vent just above the water level. Use a couple of small supplementary anodes as well as the main ones to get into the more hidden corners.
Take it out, scrub off the black residue, and it'll be all ready for paint.
Probably a good idea to drain the oil afterwards, just in case some water has got in via the vent.
I second this, who knew soda crystals were so useful?

I have an old ibc in the yard that I've cut an opening into for larger parts like rear beams.

Check your pm's Gareth, not had a reply from the one I sent a few weeks ago