Partially lowering rear subframe

[TheDutch]

Hi all,

I need to replace one of my inner rear brake hoses and at present the poor access to the connection nearest the T-piece makes the job impossible. I've read other accounts that it is merely a bit tricky, however I cannot even attach a six sided brake spanner, let alone turn it.

In order to improve access is it possible to drop the rear beam a few inches without removing it completely? i.e. only unbolt the two subframe mounts. I'm not sure how much movement this would even allow, or whether the tactic would be enough to provide the required access, but it seemed worth contemplating.

[Grrrmachine]

It would be a massive ballache. You need to undo the massive nut on each side of the subframe, then remove the two allen-head bolts on the sills (which will have seized solid and may need an angle grinder), then you need to remove rear seats and dig out the sound deadening to free up the subframe bolts so that you can them hammer them up from inside the car.

While this is happening you need to have the rear diff supported so that you can undo its bush bolt, and also undo the ARB mounting bolts so that it doesn't twist everything around. You'll also want the rear springs out which is a pain if you don't have a spring compressor.

Once you've done all that the subframe will drop... if the bushes haven't seized themselves solid. If they have, you'll break the aluminium part trying to free them, meaning they'll need replacing, meaning you've now got to remove the rear shocks, undo the trailing arms and remove the diff as well.

What started off as "undo a brake pipe" will turn into a three day spannerfest as you refresh the subframe and trailing arm bushes. Which is exactly what I did this weekend.

Simpler is to get a set of crows feet:

[TheDutch]

I've seen that you're a big fan of the crows feet, but I'm not sure they'll help in my predicament. As for the rest, I am only proposing removing the two beam mounts, not the diff etc. The two beam bushes were replaced 'only' three or four years ago so hopefully it won't be as tricky to separate as ones that have sat there for ten years or more.

And yes, I am fully expecting to have to remove the entire lot, but thought this option was worth exploring just in case it would save me days of swearing.

[milescook]

I'm not sure how much more room you'd get. I guess at minimum you'd remove the two subframe bolts, the side plates and nuts Grrrmachine mentions, disconnecting the propshaft, disconnect the diff speed sensor, disconnecting the diff bush bolt and lowering the lot carefully a little, keeping supported.

As the whole lot came off relatively recently, the side plate bolts hopefuly should play ball (had to drill one of mine). Use loads of WD40 and stand by with a heat gun anyway to be safe. As should the main bolts and the bush alloy inserts won;t have corroded to the chassis. I'm not 100% but the more I think the more it seems possible?

That middle union is a bastard (like most of them!). Those crow spanners, plus WD40 plus heat, were my life saver. However my nuts were cheese, plus the pipes were knackered. I had a new one made up for peanuts ready to go in, so if they are that bad you could cut one end and just use a ring spanner.

[TheDutch]

The nut on the rigid line looks in surprisingly good (pointy) condition, and I don't have to mess around with the T-piece, just replace the hose. All the hard lines have been treated to a bi-annual clean and grease-up for the last few years, which may also have a beneficial effect.

I'm quite happy to remove the prop, exhaust, diff mount, springs, dampers, discs and ARB, but am averse to doing the diff, handbrake cable and lowering the whole assembly (+reinstalling it - no one ever mentions putting it all back, I hope that's a good sign?). Incidentally all the things I don't mind doing are the things I've done before, whereas the remainder I haven't. They are also things that don't weigh too much and I can physically manage.