Both of them are completely dead.
I've measured voltage on the controller (not sure how many voltages which pin should measure, but I think some had 12V and some other had 2-4V).
I opened the controller and found a lot of corrosion which I removed. I placed everything back but nothing had changed.
I removed the triangle lid that is covering the 4-pin connector and the two screws for the left side mirror. I removed the 4-pin connector and cleaned it. Replaced everything but nothing had changed. I guess I should've measured if there are voltages coming to the 4-pin connector.
I removed the side mirror glass and checked the wiring and the motors. Everything was looking good.
This is where I'm stuck. The only thing I can think of is to measure if there are any voltages on the 4-pin connector.
Electric mirrors don't work
Moderator: martauto
i had a similar problem with my mirrors i checked for power on the plug that connected to the mirror adjust switch this was present so i dismantled the switch cleaned all the contacts re assembled the switch using vasaline to hold the tiny springs and dumbells in place and the mirrors worked fine hope this helps you
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
You say nothing works. Are you absolutely sure that there isn't a click from one or other of the motors when you move the switches (not necessarily the one you are trying to work) ?
Once again, a meter is totally misleading for diagnostic work. You need a 12 volt bulb of about 5W attached to a couple of pieces of wire. A indicator side repeater from a scrap E30 is ideal.
Take off the passenger mirror glass, unscrew the motor, and access the wires there, or remove the triangular cover inside and access the wires at the plug and socket tucked int the top of the door. Turn the ignition on (first position) and connect the bulb between the black and brown wires. Does the bulb light? If not, keep the bulb connected to the black wire and connect the other bulb wire to a good body earth.
Once again, a meter is totally misleading for diagnostic work. You need a 12 volt bulb of about 5W attached to a couple of pieces of wire. A indicator side repeater from a scrap E30 is ideal.
Take off the passenger mirror glass, unscrew the motor, and access the wires there, or remove the triangular cover inside and access the wires at the plug and socket tucked int the top of the door. Turn the ignition on (first position) and connect the bulb between the black and brown wires. Does the bulb light? If not, keep the bulb connected to the black wire and connect the other bulb wire to a good body earth.
I tried to measure the ohm on the connectors on the switch without any results. I realized there were missing springs that should be under the little balls. I think that's the problem.Brianmoooore wrote:You say nothing works. Are you absolutely sure that there isn't a click from one or other of the motors when you move the switches (not necessarily the one you are trying to work) ?
Once again, a meter is totally misleading for diagnostic work. You need a 12 volt bulb of about 5W attached to a couple of pieces of wire. A indicator side repeater from a scrap E30 is ideal.
Take off the passenger mirror glass, unscrew the motor, and access the wires there, or remove the triangular cover inside and access the wires at the plug and socket tucked int the top of the door. Turn the ignition on (first position) and connect the bulb between the black and brown wires. Does the bulb light? If not, keep the bulb connected to the black wire and connect the other bulb wire to a good body earth.
Hi as Brian said you need a bulb or a volt meter its voltage your looking for not ohms .If you took the switch apart and there were no springs then that could be your problem.the springs provide tension to the steel balls to enable then to push against the contacts ,if you have a old door lock you can use the tumbler springs you just need to cut them down a bit
This is the thread I used as guide: http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22029
I do have power to the switch, but from the switch everything is dead. Therefore I'm trying to measure the resistance between the pins on the switch to see if I get any contact, but I don't.
I do have power to the switch, but from the switch everything is dead. Therefore I'm trying to measure the resistance between the pins on the switch to see if I get any contact, but I don't.
#4 and #5:
Up & Down = 0 Ω
Left & Right = Infinite Ω
#4 and #3:
Up, Down, Left and Middle = Infinite Ω.
Right = 0 Ω
#4 and #1: Up, Down, Left, Right and Middle = Infinite Ω.
If I change the switch to change the passenger mirror I get the following reading:
Right, Middle & Up = Infinite Ω
Left and Down = 0Ω.
#2 and #1:
Always infinite Ω.
But if I change the switch to the passenger mirror I get the following reading:
Right & Down = 0Ω.
Rest = Infinite Ω.
Up & Down = 0 Ω
Left & Right = Infinite Ω
#4 and #3:
Up, Down, Left and Middle = Infinite Ω.
Right = 0 Ω
#4 and #1: Up, Down, Left, Right and Middle = Infinite Ω.
If I change the switch to change the passenger mirror I get the following reading:
Right, Middle & Up = Infinite Ω
Left and Down = 0Ω.
#2 and #1:
Always infinite Ω.
But if I change the switch to the passenger mirror I get the following reading:
Right & Down = 0Ω.
Rest = Infinite Ω.
Haven't tried that but in all of a sudden everything started to work...longwire wrote:Hi the wiring to the mirrors goes through the connector on the A post ,some of the pins may be corroded, there should be continuity from the switch to the mirrors have you tried that ?