Replacing a drive shaft

Post Sat Jan 05, 2013 9:46 pm

My temporary repaired drive shaft boot has gave in. It's the boot on the outer end at the drivers side wheel side.

I have sourced a shaft off another 325 which had abs as well which has all the boots etc intact.

Any pointers on the steps / tools involved to replace the shaft?

Post Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:42 pm

Depends how tactile you are really. It's easier with two people but can be done with one.

The main point is to get the shaft moving out of the splines first. This means undoing the big hub nut whilst the car is still on the ground and trying to knock the shaft with a hammer and drift until it moves a little bit. Obviously it can't move a lot, but getting to it to move whilst it's on the ground and together saves a lot of hassle later on.

Then it's undo the hex key bollts on the diff. Easiest way is to get someone inside on the handbrake and do two at a time, but if you're on your own then you'll have to get out from underneath and do the handbrake yourself.

At this point, you'll either find there's enough movement in your joints that you can sort of wiggle the shaft out of the cups on the diff end, you'll have to start thinking of getting some more movement. Whether that means dropping the arm or losening the diff bolts a bit is up to you. IIRC, it's easier to move the diff end of the shaft, upwards, and then bring it round down the outside of the cups on the diff, then try popping it down, if that makes sense. Then from there, knock it out of the hub end.

Be aware that the bolts for the shaft on the diff are tight, and it'd be wise to use a good fitting hex bit and knock it in with a hammer to stop it round any of them out.

Post Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:47 pm

Thanks very much, ill be doing this on my own. It take it refitting the new shaft will just be the reverse? I was concerned that I may need a press to do any of the work.

Post Sun Jan 06, 2013 3:24 pm

Shouldn't need one. If you were doing a rear wheel bearing, then yeh, but the driveshafts just bolt on and off.

It's important to torque up the big hub nut and lock it with the locking ring. If you can torque the driveshaft onto the diff, that would be good practice as well.

IIRC, the big hub nut is a 30mm and the driveshafts are 8mm hex keys.

I always find the hardest bit actually get a socket onto the big hub nut when the locking ring is on it.

Post Sun Jan 06, 2013 5:24 pm

capnmchl wrote:Shouldn't need one. If you were doing a rear wheel bearing, then yeh, but the driveshafts just bolt on and off.

It's important to torque up the big hub nut and lock it with the locking ring. If you can torque the driveshaft onto the diff, that would be good practice as well.

IIRC, the big hub nut is a 30mm and the driveshafts are 8mm hex keys*.

I always find the hardest bit actually get a socket onto the big hub nut when the locking ring is on it.

* Male torx on later cars.

Post Mon Jan 07, 2013 8:21 am

Thanks guys, I don't have any of those socket sizes so will pick them up before making an attemp at changing the shaft.

Post Mon Jan 07, 2013 9:22 am

the biggest PITA is removing the 30mm nut. Its most likely been on there a while in the scottish elements.

I removed the safety collar no probs but the nut wouldnt shift so ive just dropped it of at the garage to have a bearing replace.

Post Mon Jan 07, 2013 10:58 am

Ive got a 3 foot long breaker \ torque bar so I'm hoping it should be enough to get that 30MM bolt budging. Its worked on everything else I could get it on so far.

As much as its now a scottish E30 it hasn't seen winter use in over 15 years and most of that was when it lived down south so most of the nuts \ bolts etc arn't too rusty.

But we'll see, I reckong I'll be back on with several questions soon enough.

Post Mon Jan 07, 2013 11:07 am

Before refitting, use an old toothbrush and WD40 on the hub flange splines to clean them up. A bit of copper grease on the driveshaft splines is a good idea, but before you refit the hubnut, clean all traces of copper grease or oil from the flange surface where the big nut grips on - carb or brake cleaner is ideal. This must be clean and dry otherwise the nut will not grip correctly. Make sure you torque it correctly as well.
On the CV joint bolts, it's a very good idea to threadlock them as well.

Getting the bolts out can be a bastard. If you have the old type bolts, use a small screwdriver to fully clean all the muck and shite out of them so the alley key can go fully in. If you do end up rounding one out, you'll need a suitable spline drive to hammer in as well as a new bolt to refit.