M30 3.5

[scjimbo]

I'm onto a M30 3.5 for reasonable ish money. What is a sensible price to pay considering its going to need a rebuild. Also what should I be looking out for with them other than the usual stuff.

CIA

[Rich320I]

drop rav a pm i think he is head of the fleet

[Speedtouch]

Bottom ends are usually bullet-proof, being a forged crank and well-balanced.

However, check the spark plugs for heavy sooting, as many tended to run too rich which could cause bore wash and hence wear - do a compression test if possible.

Heads are generally strong, but the rockers can be a weak point, as can water pumps.

Also, check that you're buying an M30B35, and not the earlier M30B34 version - check the engine number to be sure what you're buying.

[scjimbo]

Cheers boys compression test is ok apparently which I will get verified when I go to see it. It may be a B34 model I think. Are they not worth having then?

[Speedtouch]

Check the Zone guide here:
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 93&start=0

Also:
http://www.rtsauto.com/wp-content/uploa ... geinfo.pdf

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=75954

All depends what you want it for; a B34 would be ideal for dropping into an E28 or early E24, however, for an E30, it's best to go for the later and better M30B35 - it will have been developed over the years to iron out any weak points, and you'll have the later and better Motronic 1.3 engine management.

If it comes with the ECU, check the part number; early M30B35s had the 0 261 200 150 (Motronic 1.1), while later ones had the 0 261 200 179 (Motronic 1.3).

The engine numbers should be stamped on a flat horizontal area above the starter.

[Rav335uk]

I have an early E34 engine, and doing a full engine rebuild atm.

As Maurice said above, compression test is a must on any engine.
Is it in the car, can it be heard running, or is it out of the car?