Central locking problems please help !
Moderator: martauto
-
shane281189
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2012 11:00 pm
I've jus brought a cab and the central locking ain't working , I've had to have a alarm put on this week for insurance purposes and they couldn't connect the central locking with out it working grrrr so gunna have to pay to get that wired in after !! But what I've done in took the relay from behind the door speaker to find it had some water damage and the thermal resister thing had unsoldered so I borrowed a mates one that is working but still nothing ? Any ideas ? The plug has green corrosion in it how do I clean with our damaging it or does it need a new plug ? Any help would be great
-
Grrrmachine
- E30 Zone Wiki / Team Member
- Posts: 8043
- Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: Warsaw, Poland
'89 325i Touring | Touring Resto Thread | In-Dash Screen install
-
Rav335uk
- E30 Zone Meets/Events Team
- Posts: 27978
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Mad mad mad
Have you carried out the £Red/black" wire mod on this yet???
If not, look for it in the WIKI section.
If not, look for it in the WIKI section.
If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
-
Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49360
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Probably a good idea to work out why the sill drain slots didn't do their job, and allowed water to damage the locking ECU before you replace it.
Sadly, if the locking ECU gets wet it tends to apply power to all the lock motors continuously, instead of just a brief pulse, resulting in a full set of burnt out motors.
After doing the red/black wire modification, I recommend you test the lock motors using wire links in the ECU socket, before you refit the ECU, to see if this has happened.
The fusible link in your existing ECU isn't intended to be repaired, but if you do, it's important that you only do so with the existing solder, which is a special low melting point type. DO NOT add ordinary solder.
Sadly, if the locking ECU gets wet it tends to apply power to all the lock motors continuously, instead of just a brief pulse, resulting in a full set of burnt out motors.
After doing the red/black wire modification, I recommend you test the lock motors using wire links in the ECU socket, before you refit the ECU, to see if this has happened.
The fusible link in your existing ECU isn't intended to be repaired, but if you do, it's important that you only do so with the existing solder, which is a special low melting point type. DO NOT add ordinary solder.