water in oil ???
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ross2009
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right guys this one is a little odd
took the car the other week to get it remapped and had a little bit of smoke out of the exhaust which got worse on the way home and its blue so its burning oil which we believed to be the valve stem oil seals as it seemed to drop idle every now and then
so i ordered a new set i got the car home still drove home fine,
that weekend i took the head off replaced all the stem seals new head gasket from euro car parts it was a victor rainz one
got it all bk together got it running and noticed in the filler cap it was like milk shake
thinking there might have been water get in there while the head was off i dumped the oil changed it new filter got it running again and water in the oil again now there wernt non in there when i drove it home and only started doing it since i put the new head gasket on could it be just a case of dodgy head gasket ?
obviously water in oil normally points to head gasket or a cracked head or block maybe but was fine all the way home that night
and i know that the engine has never got hot or boiled over
any thoughts or suggestions guys ??
took the car the other week to get it remapped and had a little bit of smoke out of the exhaust which got worse on the way home and its blue so its burning oil which we believed to be the valve stem oil seals as it seemed to drop idle every now and then
so i ordered a new set i got the car home still drove home fine,
that weekend i took the head off replaced all the stem seals new head gasket from euro car parts it was a victor rainz one
got it all bk together got it running and noticed in the filler cap it was like milk shake
thinking there might have been water get in there while the head was off i dumped the oil changed it new filter got it running again and water in the oil again now there wernt non in there when i drove it home and only started doing it since i put the new head gasket on could it be just a case of dodgy head gasket ?
obviously water in oil normally points to head gasket or a cracked head or block maybe but was fine all the way home that night
and i know that the engine has never got hot or boiled over
any thoughts or suggestions guys ??
You may have cracked the head doing it back up again. Also did you mop the oil out of the bottom of the stud holes in the engine before bolting the head back down? I have done this on a race bike engine and on the odd occasion the hydraulic pressure of the oil in the holes can crack the block.
Either way its gotta be a head back off and have a peek job IMO
Either way its gotta be a head back off and have a peek job IMO
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ross2009
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head bolts are arps wont be swapping them for new ones lolSGP wrote:Hi, looks like something went wrong with the gasket swap, you might need to skim the head and order a new gasket and another set of head bolts.
i means thats the only thing ive done and changed since its started doing it is the head gasket
Oh definitely the pressures under there are absolutely mental. If the thing is not very flat it will definitely leak. Obviously the amount depends on the warp. I skim them if they are over 0.007 (seven fag papers) but i'm a perfectionist. The motorbike engines i use have to be within 0.003 otherwise they burn when the gasses escape.
Precisely. I would imagine you would be looking at similar pressures to those I see inside the bikes. That head needs to be really nice and flat. A straight edge won't give you the answers. I would put it on the kitchen top and get someone to hold it down. Then try and slide some paper under the end and the middle. If you can get it under fold it in half and try again. this will give you an idea of how its bent and by how much.ross2009 wrote:thats pressures on a normal engine mines turboed aswell lol
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ross2009
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right well ive just had a quick go but i really dont think my surface was flat enough i had it on a glass table the only thing thats close to flat and could get .006 under it easily but i turned the head around and tried it the same place and was still .006 on the other end of the head so i dont think thats quite acurate
Got ya. Right that head is warped IMO. I would say it definitely needs skimming. The heads original thickness is 4.921" to 4.929" If the head has been skimmed before the re conditioner needs to be careful when they are grinding it to no take off more than 0.012". Otherwise you can get valve head strike.
So in summary you need to measure the overall height of the head and it must not end up less than 4.909"
So in summary you need to measure the overall height of the head and it must not end up less than 4.909"
Yeah that is a bit odd but its not inconceivable with machining tolerances. Did you measure that with a mike or a vernier? I'm only going by previous experience and what it says on BMW's microfiche.
My suggestion would be to have the bare minimum surface ground off until it cleans up. Some conditioners mill them and its crap IMO. It also is a bit too brutal and they can take off too much by mistake. That way you should still be within tolerance. Obviously you still want a working head after you spend money on it.
Make sure you wind it over by hand though once its seated to ensure it doesn't clobber the piston heads.
My suggestion would be to have the bare minimum surface ground off until it cleans up. Some conditioners mill them and its crap IMO. It also is a bit too brutal and they can take off too much by mistake. That way you should still be within tolerance. Obviously you still want a working head after you spend money on it.
Make sure you wind it over by hand though once its seated to ensure it doesn't clobber the piston heads.
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ross2009
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im an engineer by trade mate i know about tolerences and machining
you cant grind ali it just clogs the wheels up they get fly cut one single tipped cutter that does the whole lot
yeah measured it with a vernier
my pistons and forged low comp there plenty of clearance there lol
you cant grind ali it just clogs the wheels up they get fly cut one single tipped cutter that does the whole lot
yeah measured it with a vernier
my pistons and forged low comp there plenty of clearance there lol
And me mate. I grind ali every day with a 90 grit white wheel and plenty of Soluble and it cuts fine. I grind the heads on the bikes and I did my 320 head.
I recon with a mike it will probably be a bit smaller in reality and with your pistons it will be fine I should think.
I recon with a mike it will probably be a bit smaller in reality and with your pistons it will be fine I should think.
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ross2009
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really ? that works i would have thought it buggers the wheels up
yeah a mic will be more acurate but ive only got a 0-25 mm one not big enough to do a head
i think ill take it down and get it skimmed might be best
yeah a mic will be more acurate but ive only got a 0-25 mm one not big enough to do a head
i think ill take it down and get it skimmed might be best
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maggspower
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Personally I would never skim a cylinder head until it has been hot pressure tested first.
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maggspower
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In all honesty it is probably warped, aluninium is a very strange metal, it constantly changes throughout its life as a solid object.ross2009 wrote:just incase it is cracked ?
but like i said it wasnt like it before i took the head off so thinking about it, it must have distored when i took it off
I have never experienced replacing a head after a rebuild, to find out its cracked, but I would imagine it is quite exasperating
Its just a peace of mind thing, that and the fact that you could be throwing money away skimming it.
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ross2009
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yeah i know they move all over the place
and mine being turboed aswell it will get hotter than most normal m20s
i suppose i really should get it pressure tested its about 40 quid i know a guy that can do it
at least it will stop me worrying that the head is cracked
and mine being turboed aswell it will get hotter than most normal m20s
i suppose i really should get it pressure tested its about 40 quid i know a guy that can do it
at least it will stop me worrying that the head is cracked
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maggspower
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Yes you can get it tested off the car, £40 is about right.
- Brianmoooore
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Pressure test checks for cracks from the coolant jacket. Nothing to do with valves.SGP wrote:All a pressure test on a head does is tell you is whether the valve seats are sealing properly or not.
Correct me if I'm wrong
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ross2009
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yeah what Brian say
they get a tank of water heat it up they clamp plates over the water jacket holes
dunk the head in the hot water so if there is any cracks it opens them then they add air pressure to the head if bubbles come up its cracked if they don't it's all good
they get a tank of water heat it up they clamp plates over the water jacket holes
dunk the head in the hot water so if there is any cracks it opens them then they add air pressure to the head if bubbles come up its cracked if they don't it's all good



