Central locking - non red/black problem
Moderator: martauto
-
grantfk10
- E30 Zone Meets/Events Team

- Posts: 2926
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: UFOland, Central Scotland
Ok, I've done the red/black wire mod, my central locking still does not work, what's next?
-
BenHar
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 3089
- Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:00 pm
- Location: Reigate, Surrey
There is not enough information for anyone to help.
You need to describe the symptoms.
Ben
You need to describe the symptoms.
Ben
-
grantfk10
- E30 Zone Meets/Events Team

- Posts: 2926
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: UFOland, Central Scotland
Drivers door opens with key but does not lock. Same with passenger door. All doors can only be locked by pushing their respective buttons down. Tailgate locks/unlocks with key. Petrol flap does not lock.
Thanx in advance.
Thanx in advance.
-
Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49360
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Pull out the locking ECU from its hiding place, disconnect it, and connect a 12 volt bulb across the red/black and brown wires in the plug. The bulb should light at full brightness.
If it does, the next step is to open up the ECU and check out the thermal overload fuse on the circuit board.
It consists of a resistor with metal end caps, mounted vertically in the corner of the circuit board, with a small leaf spring soldered to the upper cap of the resistor.
If the spring blade isn't soldered in place, then the fuse has blown.
It can be repaired by soldering the spring back into place, but it's important not to add any fresh solder, as the original is a special low melting point type.
If it is tripped, you can repair it, but don't plug the ECU back into circuit. Report back here, as there are tests to do first.
If it does, the next step is to open up the ECU and check out the thermal overload fuse on the circuit board.
It consists of a resistor with metal end caps, mounted vertically in the corner of the circuit board, with a small leaf spring soldered to the upper cap of the resistor.
If the spring blade isn't soldered in place, then the fuse has blown.
It can be repaired by soldering the spring back into place, but it's important not to add any fresh solder, as the original is a special low melting point type.
If it is tripped, you can repair it, but don't plug the ECU back into circuit. Report back here, as there are tests to do first.
-
BenHar
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 3089
- Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:00 pm
- Location: Reigate, Surrey
You need to fix the drivers door lock so that you can lock the door with the key.
Don't worry about checking the central locking until you've got the lock itself working.
This may help: http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWE30Door ... ebuild.htm
Ben
Don't worry about checking the central locking until you've got the lock itself working.
This may help: http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWE30Door ... ebuild.htm
Ben
-
Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49360
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
I agree that the driver's door should be fixed so that it will lock with the key, and until it does, there's a chance that the central locking still won't work from this door, even after it's fixed, but this has no bearing on the fact that the central locking doesn't work from the passenger door or boot lock either.
-
BenHar
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 3089
- Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:00 pm
- Location: Reigate, Surrey
I'm not arguing , Brian. Just pointing out that he needs to fix the lock.
Ben
Ben

