what happened if timming belt not fit properly

[markus_74]

Hello

I want asking about my car e30 m40 318i.

What if my timming belt not fit properly, may be jump 1 tooth at the camshaft?

does the engine still run? or what happened?

also I think I ever see someone here post how to make a tool for holding the camsaft so can install the timming belt perfectly.

it is a rod and some triangular metal?

thanks in advance
markus

[GWB]

if the engine has been run without this first being sorted it'll be kaput and cheaper to source another engine.

Ah just seen your location, best pull the head and get some photos of whats what.

[markus_74]

The engine will not run properly if the belt is a tooth out.

You dont need the tool, just ensure the top of the square at the end of the camshaft is parallel with the top of the head.

tool looks like this..

Hello, Willnz

Please, can you send the picture to my email?
ciptakaryafurniture@yahoo.com

because the picture at this e30zone is not clear because of imageshack not registered yet?

Thank you in advance
markus

[Andyboy]

The M40 belt is a funny one to change, easy when you know how but tricky the first time. You should lock the crank with a suitable drill bit (or even better, the correct locking pin) and whilst you can set the cam with a setsquare, the proper locking tool is best. I made one from 5mm thick perspex using the diagram in the Haynes manual and even with a setsquare, it's suprising how far out the timing can be - 2 or 3 degrees.
You must always slacken the cam pulley centre bolt as well. The idea is that the cam bolt is slack so that the pulley can rotate a few degrees either way on the cam. You set the cam and crank to the correct positions, fit the belt, tension it (you'll see the pulley move to it's position) and then tighten the cam pulley bolt to nthe correct torque (threadlock it as well).

M20's will run badly one tooth advanced, or very sluggishly one tooth retarded. No idea on M40's, but would be about the same.

[markus_74]

The M40 belt is a funny one to change, easy when you know how but tricky the first time. You should lock the crank with a suitable drill bit (or even better, the correct locking pin) and whilst you can set the cam with a setsquare, the proper locking tool is best. I made one from 5mm thick perspex using the diagram in the Haynes manual and even with a setsquare, it's suprising how far out the timing can be - 2 or 3 degrees.
You must always slacken the cam pulley centre bolt as well. The idea is that the cam bolt is slack so that the pulley can rotate a few degrees either way on the cam. You set the cam and crank to the correct positions, fit the belt, tension it (you'll see the pulley move to it's position) and then tighten the cam pulley bolt to nthe correct torque (threadlock it as well).

M20's will run badly one tooth advanced, or very sluggishly one tooth retarded. No idea on M40's, but would be about the same.

I need to copy the tool and make it here.

do you have any diagram of it and size? also I see a metal cylinder stick (diameter?) and where I should insert it if I change the cambelt?

please, can you send to me the diagram to my email? ciptakaryafurniture@yahoo.com

[markus_74]

I'm curious that my car has jump 1 tooth, because when I'm run slow with 2nd gear the car is like kangarooing.

is it correct my assumtion?