Cylinder head Q's

[StuBeeDoo]

I'm fitting another 'head soon, and I don't know the head bolt torque settings, or the valve clearances.
Answers, please?????

Oh! ......& is there anything tricky I ought to know about??
TIA
Stuart.

[Simon]

Hi Stu

Valve clearences are in the articles section, there's a guide in there somewhere on setting them.

As for the head bolt torque's then it's different for torx and Hex head's, the procedure is as follows, torx head is to 22lbft for the first sequence, then they need to be turned 90 degree's for the second sequence, then another 90 degree's for the third sequence.

Make sure you've got all the gaskets/seals you require, there's quite a few!!

The breather pipe that runs from the bottom of the inlet manifold to the block is always a pain, best way is to either cable tie the spring or use some string to hold the spring tight, without doing this, it's a job that requires 2 pairs of hands!!

Also please remember to clean the head thread holes in the block, this is vitaly important, as any fluid in these will create such pressure that they will crack the block!

[StuBeeDoo]

Thanks Simon Top Man!!

torx head is to 22lbft for the first sequence

Hell!! I'll have to buy another torque wrench. Mine starts at 40lb/ft.

The breather pipe that runs from the bottom of the inlet manifold to the block is always a pain, best way is to either cable tie the spring or use some string to hold the spring tight

By that, do you mean compress the spring??

[Simon]

The breather pipe that runs from the bottom of the inlet manifold to the block is always a pain, best way is to either cable tie the spring or use some string to hold the spring tight

By that, do you mean compress the spring??

Yes mate, it's a pain otherwise!

[Globulator]

You'll need an E14 Torx socket for the (new!!) head bolts - impact drive ones are 1/2" drive, regular ones are 3/8". I used a 3/8" with a 3/8-1/2 adapter on a 1/2" swivel bar to get a decent leverage.

Bolts: 30NM, 90deg, 90deg
Valves: 0.25mm cold. And check them twice. Turn engine in 5th with wheel.

Buy a decent 3/8" torque wrench - go for e.g. a Sealey/Draper pro - one that is calibrated and has clear markings, I threw out one torque wrench as I could never read the scale!

Blow out the holes where the old bolts went with an air line - you'll be amazed at the variety of crud that comes out of those 14 holes.

You can whip out the old bolts with a nut gun - I did - but I'm not sure if this is recommended. If you do not have a compressor then buy a V-twin (i.e. Hyundai - ebay) one, you'll thank yourself every time you work on your car...

[tourer-dan]

remove your head bolts in reverse of tightening sequence only unless you're scrapping it.
Having done it a few times I'd recommend undoing them just 1/8 turn at a time - sounds like not much, but they'll be unlocked by the third time round.
Doing it this way helps prevent any unnecessary warping or crack stress.

[Chaos]

there u go, hope that helps

[StuBeeDoo]

Thanks all of you.
Shouldn't have anything go wrong with all that knowledge!!

[StuBeeDoo]

The breather pipe that runs from the bottom of the inlet manifold to the block is always a pain, best way is to either cable tie the spring or use some string to hold the spring tight, without doing this, it's a job that requires 2 pairs of hands!!

Top tip Simon! It went in first time, with one pair of hands. Cheers matey.
Stuart.