How to remove (diesel) crank

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Sjoerd320i
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 4:27 pm

I found a diesel crank for someone on the zone, but the crank is still in the block. I need help on how to get it out i.e. what tools etc.

the block is complete but the head is off, the complete bottemend is still together.

I am pickking it up on saturday so need help reletivly quick please

:cheers: Sjoerd
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 4:38 pm

Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most :lol:

fook that too far for me mate :lol: :lol:
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Jimbob
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 5:49 pm

Remove the sump, then remove the oil pump, then you should be faced with the conrods which are torx, undo those and the pistons should fall through, good luck undoing the crank bolt though.....


Hmm, I'm sure there's something I've missed :banghead:
Last edited by Jimbob on Wed Sep 07, 2005 6:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
E30Mark
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 5:57 pm

Jimbob wrote:Remove the sump, then you should be faced with the conrods which are torx, undo those and the pistons should fall through, good luck undoing the crank bolt though.....


Hmm, I'm sure there's something I've missed :banghead:
Removing the gearbox / clutch / flywheel...

Undo the crank bolt whilst the engine is still in the car... assuming the engine is still in the car ??

Don't have a clue what size spanners / sockets you need, sorry :(
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Jimbob
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 5:58 pm

I was assuming the engine was out and just the block, sounds crazy to remove a crank with it still in a car!
E30Mark
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 6:01 pm

Trying to undo the crank nut outside of the car is a RPITA !

been there done that and got the T shirt !
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Jimbob
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 6:07 pm

A cheeky tip my mechanic gave me and Adam, bend a valve and lock it in place on the flywheel. Voila.

However he told me this when we were doing the crank back up, when we undid it Adam turned the bar whilst me and his bro were standing on my block!
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 6:13 pm

Jimbob wrote:A cheeky tip my mechanic gave me and Adam, bend a valve and lock it in place on the flywheel. Voila.

However he told me this when we were doing the crank back up, when we undid it Adam turned the bar whilst me and his bro were standing on my block!
I ended up chasing the engine and stand around my garden trying to undo the nut. I was try to change the crank oil seal as a precaution, but didn't bother in the end and just put the engine in the car. Thankfully i doesn't leak!
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 6:27 pm

i removed a 325 crank the following way:

have the block upside down (the engine mounts still on the engine to aid lifting) and undo everything you can

i.e. water pump, tensioners, flywheel, pulleys, crank pulley - just have the block on its own

take off the sump and there are i think 19mm bolts

undo all these and knock the pistons out of the bottom. The mounts help here as you can lift up the engine and push out the pistons. Basically, you will then have the crank in the block.

on the front and back of the block, there are several 10mm bolts on each side, undo these and the crank should lift out with the end plates in place.

I'm happy getting the crank like this :cool: :lol:

(& Thanks!!)

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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 6:28 pm

Sounds like yet another time you really want an impact wrench! Must get a compressor...

Maybe us Dorset lot should get one between us?! & a welder for that matter!
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 6:32 pm

Ziggy wrote:Sounds like yet another time you really want an impact wrench! Must get a compressor...

Maybe us Dorset lot should get one between us?! & a welder for that matter!
got the welder dude!

and a compressor .... but it's in Essex ! and too big to fit in my garage down here!
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chu346
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 6:32 pm

You don't need to undo the crank pulley yet.

You can take the front main seal housing off with the crank bolt still in place as i did, just leave the housing on the crankshaft. Then take the crank to a shop to get checked and get them to undo it then.

For the Rod bolts i use a torx style socket which said e12 and for the main bearings i used a 15 or 17mm socket

HTH
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 6:34 pm

E30Mark wrote: got the welder dude!

and a compressor .... but it's in Essex ! and too big to fit in my garage down here!
Sweet! I'll have to have a go sometime - been meaning to learn for aaaages. If you want to keep the compressor nearer to home, there's room in my garage! :thumb:
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 7:52 pm

thanks guys, I want to do it as quick as possible, yes the block is out of the car :)

any ideas on what torx sizes I need?

and I only want to remove the strictly necessery (spell) things to get thew crank out.

everything is still on there except the head
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Jimbob
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 7:56 pm

Sorry mate, can't help you on the size of torq, it's a smallish size so a small torq kit should have the correct size. if you take the sump off (10mm I think?) then you have the oil pump (13 or 15mm at a guess, but again a socket set will have you covered). Unsure of crankbolt, 22mm + probably!
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chu346
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Post Wed Sep 07, 2005 10:09 pm

:yeahthat:
Crank bolt 22mm

As for the torx bolts, just buy a set.
Sjoerd320i
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Post Thu Sep 08, 2005 10:48 pm

cheers guys :wink:

so not any special tool I need for it except the torx stuff?

any long "bars" for bolts that are very tight?
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Jimbob
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Post Thu Sep 08, 2005 11:39 pm

Probably, for the crank bolt!
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Post Thu Sep 08, 2005 11:47 pm

Home brewed crank lock :D Bolted to the starter housing.

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Sjoerd320i
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Post Fri Sep 09, 2005 11:41 pm

so I don't have to take the pulley of then?
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