Hi everyone, can anyone help, my central locking was stiff to operate on drivers door and when I parked the car up before the snow I dead locked it.
When I tried to open it only the drivers door and boot unlock with a key and the passenger door is deadlocked won't open with a key, or from inside.
I have dismantled, cleaned all the electrical connections in the A pillar of the drivers door and connections in the bottom of the door.
No change car still locked.
I can manually pull and push down the door lock with door card off but when the card is back on with the door closed this cannot be done.
Help please as I have nearly finished running the new engine in and the sun is starting to shine.
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Central locking gone down and passenger door deadlocked
Moderator: martauto
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
If you've taken the passenger door card off, remove the two 8mm self tapping screws that hold the lock motor in place - they are just under the edge of the card.
This will allow you to unlock the door, but will,of course, disable the central locking on that door.
Is the rest of the central locking still working, or is it all dead?
This will allow you to unlock the door, but will,of course, disable the central locking on that door.
Is the rest of the central locking still working, or is it all dead?
Hi thanks, I cannot remove the passenger door card as being a cabriolet their is a sill brace running the entire length of the door which would mean destroying the door card t get access.
Re central locking, unfortunately yes the complete system is not working.
Could this be the motor located in the drivers door at the bottom right hand side of the door?
Re central locking, unfortunately yes the complete system is not working.
Could this be the motor located in the drivers door at the bottom right hand side of the door?
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
The central locking ECU lives underneath the loudspeaker in the footwell, on the driver's side.
Remove the trim and speaker, and dig it out. Connect a 12 volt bulb between the red/black and brown wires, and see if it lights at full brightness.
Remove the trim and speaker, and dig it out. Connect a 12 volt bulb between the red/black and brown wires, and see if it lights at full brightness.
Brian, thanks I took the ECU out and cleaned the terminals yesterday, when I tried the central locking the door it emits a click occasionally but nothing happened.
I will try the bulb test tomorrow, what would any reduced brightness indicate please?
I will try the bulb test tomorrow, what would any reduced brightness indicate please?
Hi Guys 
I received a pm from WIllNZ following looking up previous posts of which Brian you are extremely knowledgeable so a Big thanks for the help and advice.
On this occasion I fixed the central locking without a bulkb or chopping wires, it was the soldered joint and the picture WillNZ was a great help to me so thanks.
Resoldered the joint with the original solder on the joint, cleaned the terminals at the same time with a piece of Emery cloth, put it back together now works perfectly - super quick.
Thanks again Brian, WillNZ
I received a pm from WIllNZ following looking up previous posts of which Brian you are extremely knowledgeable so a Big thanks for the help and advice.
On this occasion I fixed the central locking without a bulkb or chopping wires, it was the soldered joint and the picture WillNZ was a great help to me so thanks.
Resoldered the joint with the original solder on the joint, cleaned the terminals at the same time with a piece of Emery cloth, put it back together now works perfectly - super quick.
Thanks again Brian, WillNZ
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Finding the 'joint' sprung apart is NOT a fault. It is a symptom of a fault elsewhere.
You've cured the symptom, but not necessarily the fault.
Do the 'red/black wire mod.' anyway - there are reasons for doing it other than repairing the locking.
Three red/blacks on a cab, BTW.
You've cured the symptom, but not necessarily the fault.
Do the 'red/black wire mod.' anyway - there are reasons for doing it other than repairing the locking.
Three red/blacks on a cab, BTW.
The car prior to the failure had been stood out whilst I finished buildinga 6m x 6m double garage to house this and my 67 MGBGT in.
Yes you've guessed it the worst snow fall for many many years and the cabbie copped it so I think that water in the base of the A post could be the culprit.
I intend to to take both door actuators out and strip down + clean up as they have probably been untouched for over 20 years!
Can you explain please as to why the red/black wore mod is so important to do please as i am unsure as to what will happen.
Also in the bottom of the A post I found a yellow/brown wire witha male spade connector loose and there is a purple/brown wire which has been split with a female connector, I am loathe to put them together any ideas as to what they may be please.
Yes you've guessed it the worst snow fall for many many years and the cabbie copped it so I think that water in the base of the A post could be the culprit.
I intend to to take both door actuators out and strip down + clean up as they have probably been untouched for over 20 years!
Can you explain please as to why the red/black wore mod is so important to do please as i am unsure as to what will happen.
Also in the bottom of the A post I found a yellow/brown wire witha male spade connector loose and there is a purple/brown wire which has been split with a female connector, I am loathe to put them together any ideas as to what they may be please.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
E30 A pillars are supposed to have water passing through them - but it's supposed to drain straight out through the slots at the bottom. Ensure these are clear, and the locking ECU will be fine.
The yellow/brown and purple/brown wires are associated with the wiring changes needed for an interior light delay module (socket near the locking ECU).
Most central locking faults, and a selection of other faults, are caused by corrosion of pins in the door pillar plug and socket. This type of corrosion requires water (often caused by the rubber cover not being replaced before the plug is replaced), and electricity. By performing the 'red/black wire' modification, the permanently live pins in the connector are removed, and the likelihood of corrosion is greatly reduced. The next corrosion promoter in the connector is one of the pins for the door mirrors, but this one is only live when the ignition is on.
The yellow/brown and purple/brown wires are associated with the wiring changes needed for an interior light delay module (socket near the locking ECU).
Most central locking faults, and a selection of other faults, are caused by corrosion of pins in the door pillar plug and socket. This type of corrosion requires water (often caused by the rubber cover not being replaced before the plug is replaced), and electricity. By performing the 'red/black wire' modification, the permanently live pins in the connector are removed, and the likelihood of corrosion is greatly reduced. The next corrosion promoter in the connector is one of the pins for the door mirrors, but this one is only live when the ignition is on.
Will, Brian , Thanks absolutely knocked out by your knowledge guys, i wish you were local I'd buy you both several beers, sincerely, thanks.
My cabbie does not have the pin in the A post to which you both refer, I thought this odd when I opened my Bentley manual at first, all I have are several connectors located in the A post which I carefully pried apart one a t a time cleaned then reassembled.
The drain holes are clear thanks, i will leave the spare wires alone in situ.
I have just been out into the garage and checked the drain holes of which both are clear.
I think the cause initially was the amount of snow that fell at the time coupled with the freezing conditions in Gloucestershire all of which did not suit the cabbie much.
My fault I sheeted my MG in a temporary garage I built but stupidly did not sheet the cabbie at the same time. All sorted now I have a decent space in which to house and work on them now without interference from inclement weather.
Brian if your in the area or attending please let me know I will willingly buy you a pint, Will sorry mate nothing as of yet planned to visit NZ, but if your over drop me a line dude.
My cabbie does not have the pin in the A post to which you both refer, I thought this odd when I opened my Bentley manual at first, all I have are several connectors located in the A post which I carefully pried apart one a t a time cleaned then reassembled.
The drain holes are clear thanks, i will leave the spare wires alone in situ.
I have just been out into the garage and checked the drain holes of which both are clear.
I think the cause initially was the amount of snow that fell at the time coupled with the freezing conditions in Gloucestershire all of which did not suit the cabbie much.
My fault I sheeted my MG in a temporary garage I built but stupidly did not sheet the cabbie at the same time. All sorted now I have a decent space in which to house and work on them now without interference from inclement weather.
Brian if your in the area or attending please let me know I will willingly buy you a pint, Will sorry mate nothing as of yet planned to visit NZ, but if your over drop me a line dude.