Clutch pedal issues on 88 325i tourer **Changing clutch**

Post Tue Jan 19, 2010 6:56 pm

The clutch has always been a bit on the heavy side but has never slipped. However the pedal has suddenly developed a strange grinding feel half way through the pedal stroke, from the outside you can hear a metallic clunk that happens exactly as the grinding sensation happens. I can't see any evidence of leaking fluids and the reservoir is still just under max, gear changes are fine and no different at all to before.

Can anyone shed any light as I'd like to get this sorted as it's my other halfs tourer.. she would never forgive me if I let her get stranded somewhere due to car issues..

Any advice would be grately appreciated

Charlie

Post Tue Jan 19, 2010 7:19 pm

sounds like the pressure plate has failed dude, pull the lower sump extension off and look up, typically the springs will have snapped or the cover itself has cracked.

New clutch will sort it.

HTH

Post Tue Jan 19, 2010 7:23 pm

Now would be a good time to teach her how to drive without using the clutch - start the engine in first gear, how to get the box out of gear by lifting off, how to rev match to get it into the next gear, how to look ahead on the road and anticipate, so that you don't have to come to a halt, etc., since very soon the clutch pedal isn't going to do anything!
The clutch release bearing is breaking up, I'm afraid, and it's a gearbox out job to replace it. It's normal practice to replace the whole clutch at the same time. About £120 for OE quality parts.
The release bearing doesn't normally do anything between gear changes, but driving with the left foot on the pedal keeps it engaged, and will drastically shorten its life. (Not that I'm insinuating anything about women drivers!)

Post Wed Jan 20, 2010 3:33 pm

Cheers for the advice chaps, so new clutch and release bearing it is then.. perfect time of year to be pulling gearboxes out on the drive. Do you have any tips for droppping the box with the engine in situ without the use of a ramp, I do have supersized axle stands and trolley jack but also an engine hoist.

Brian with regards to driving without a clutch, how does one learn to rev match for gear change? This is one of those things that I've been meaning to learn

Thanks again

Charlie

Post Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:40 pm

Is there any difference in early & late model M20B25 clutch's, for example would THIS fit or is there a difference in the flywheel.

Post Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:47 pm

charlE30 wrote:Is there any difference in early & late model M20B25 clutch's, for example would THIS fit or is there a difference in the flywheel.

Looking at the list of applications i think that clutch is for vehicles fitted with dual mass type flywheels, so no it wont fit.

Post Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:55 pm

The picture doesn't show a plate for a dual mass flywheel, although he does say it's a 'stock' picture.
I certainly wouldn't buy without cross referencing the Sachs part number.

Post Thu Jan 21, 2010 1:40 am

I did have my doubts about that clutch which was a pity at that price and the fact he's based in the same town as where I live. I'll find out what brand GSF do as they are a lot cheaper than Eurocar parts, euro's would be a Sachs part.

So any tips for removing the gearbox on my drive?

Post Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:33 pm

Cheers Willnz, I'll most probably use ramps on the back axle then stands at the front, it gets the car higher enough for me to sit upright underneath the transmission tunnel (no gearbox/engine in obvisouly lol) My only concern is as you've stated getting to the bolts and then getting it properly lined up with refitting the gearbox.

I've got an engine hoist already and was thinking maybe it would be quicker in the long run to remove the lot as it'll only mean draining the coolant system and disconnecting fuel and loom on top of what has already been done.

Post Thu Jan 21, 2010 7:17 pm

To get it "lined up" during refitting, you buy a couple of 6" M12 bolts, and cut the heads off of them, or use a couple of 6" pieces of M12 studding, and screw them into the two M12 holes on the engine that are nearly opposite each other. Slide the box into place along the bolts, and all you have to do is make sure that the gap between bell housing and engine remains parallel.

Post Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:14 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:To get it "lined up" during refitting, you buy a couple of 6" M12 bolts, and cut the heads off of them, or use a couple of 6" pieces of M12 studding, and screw them into the two M12 holes on the engine that are nearly opposite each other. Slide the box into place along the bolts, and all you have to do is make sure that the gap between bell housing and engine remains parallel.

Cheers Brian, excellent yet simple tip

I'll give it a go.