My 1989 325is has problems starting!!!
It needs to crank over about 4 or 5 times before it kicks over and then when it kicks over it runs pretty rough and almost stalls until it is driven for a few hundred metres or so.
It only has starting problems when the car has been off for about 1/2 an hour or longer (ie it starts perfectly when hot but poorly when cold). The strange thing is that occasionally it starts perfectly when cold and it does idle and drive a tad better when it starts easily. I've had the problem for months and months but its not getting worse.
I use good fuel and i've changed the fuel pump, filter and regulator, i have new plugs have had the throttle and throttle switch adjusted aswell i have replaced by idle stabiliser valve, i've checked main battery terminals and earths and relays. The starter cranks well and i have done the electrical tests in the service manual but i'm simply stumped about the problem.
Anyone have any ideas, i'm not keen on leaving my car at the mechanics for a few days as its very inconvenient. BUt its looking like that will have to be my option to fix the problem once and for all.
Cheers
Starting Problems
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TOURINGDADDY
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Wilson
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there is prob plenty to do first, but I had exactly the same problem which I had given up on... I changed the injectors not long ago for a different reason and also because I had some spare lieing around and it cured the problem!!!!! Injectors themselves are very expensive, approx Ԛ£70 - Ԛ£100 each, but I think having them cleaned is fairly cheap..
As I said though there is probably easier stuff to check first, which I'm sure people on here will advise
Thanks
Marc
As I said though there is probably easier stuff to check first, which I'm sure people on here will advise
Thanks
Marc

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reggid
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i forgot to mention that the injectors have already been cleaned. I have also replaced my ICV (idle stabiliser/control valve).
The rough running and poor drivability when cold leads me to believe it is mixture related. But this doesn't narrow things down much as many variables will affect this
The rough running and poor drivability when cold leads me to believe it is mixture related. But this doesn't narrow things down much as many variables will affect this
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320Touring
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couldnt be anything to do with the blue sensor on the front of the engine???
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reggid
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do you mean the temperature sensor? i've checked the resistances at various temps and it seems to be within the limits320Touring wrote:couldnt be anything to do with the blue sensor on the front of the engine???
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320Touring
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yeah, if you've tested t then all seems to be ok on that frontreggid wrote:do you mean the temperature sensor? i've checked the resistances at various temps and it seems to be within the limits320Touring wrote:couldnt be anything to do with the blue sensor on the front of the engine???
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rowemeister
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I would check you big black pipe from the AFM to the TB. They can split (usually underneath) where it is ribbed. Also check the oil breather pipe from the rocker cover to the TB.
Then there is the Fuel pressure reg or AFM to check.
After checking the pipes and you have found nothing wrong, start the engine and pull off the pipe that goes from the inlet manifold to the fuel pressure reg. Pull off @ the fuel pressure reg end and block hole on pipe with your finger.There will be a small vacuum. This will increase fuel pressure.
If the revs settle down or smooth out a little I would be tempted to change the reg. Just fit a second hand one.

Then there is the Fuel pressure reg or AFM to check.
After checking the pipes and you have found nothing wrong, start the engine and pull off the pipe that goes from the inlet manifold to the fuel pressure reg. Pull off @ the fuel pressure reg end and block hole on pipe with your finger.There will be a small vacuum. This will increase fuel pressure.
If the revs settle down or smooth out a little I would be tempted to change the reg. Just fit a second hand one.
325i Sport with Hartge H27 lump


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Guest
this sounds a little like my problem. Hard to start only sometimes, and stalls during driving for a few seconds at which point the ABS light comes on. The only things i have changed are fuel filter,plugs, leads and rotor arm. that was just as part of service but was hoping it might fix the issue.
Next move is to change dizzy cap as that is worn and coil. Any other ideas?
Next move is to change dizzy cap as that is worn and coil. Any other ideas?

