I may as well ask if anyone knows about my tracking problem while i'm here but i think however its solved it must be tracking because it definatly pulls to the left regardless of road surface.
any tips are much appreciated as always
Moderator: martauto




hahaha wil doeko wrote:Sump swap on a 2.5 is a couple of hours work DIY.
Track rod ends can and often do sieze on E30`s so its easier to just buy new replacement rack eands from GSF/ECP/dealers then get it tracked up.
Tell the so called mechanic to fook off


he aint my mechanic, first time I've been to him. my uncle uses them to do his mots from his garage so my dad told me to go there because they would of done the tracking for £25.Bob_S wrote:your mechanic is a bullshitter..
replace the sump check your pressures and then see if it pulls e30's are quite sensitive anyway

imgoing to the wrong places then. Another place i went to today in perivale wanted 40! Im goin to find out the toe in/out spec and do it myself me thinksasmith88 wrote:25s an average price for tracking really
but the track rod doesn't need to be heated up, the locking nut is briefly heated with oxyacetylene to expand it so it will move, Ive seen many cars done this way and they dont get new track rods afterwardseltelturbo wrote:if nut and bolt or whatever has completly seized up usually the last resort is to heat the join until the metal expands and un-sticks. this works a treat for most things but heating a metal in this way changes its properties so the trackrod might not withstand the forces its designed for.


yea ur absolutly right. nothing that mechanic said can be justifiedbodger wrote:but the track rod doesn't need to be heated up, the locking nut is briefly heated with oxyacetylene to expand it so it will move, Ive seen many cars done this way and they dont get new track rods afterwardseltelturbo wrote:if nut and bolt or whatever has completly seized up usually the last resort is to heat the join until the metal expands and un-sticks. this works a treat for most things but heating a metal in this way changes its properties so the trackrod might not withstand the forces its designed for.

+1 - I've heated up that many I'd definitely be dead now if that were true!eltelturbo wrote:yea ur absolutly right. nothing that mechanic said can be justifiedbodger wrote:but the track rod doesn't need to be heated up, the locking nut is briefly heated with oxyacetylene to expand it so it will move, Ive seen many cars done this way and they dont get new track rods afterwardseltelturbo wrote:if nut and bolt or whatever has completly seized up usually the last resort is to heat the join until the metal expands and un-sticks. this works a treat for most things but heating a metal in this way changes its properties so the trackrod might not withstand the forces its designed for.