Hi all i bought some o-rings from zimmer bimmer so i can replace the o-rings in my pipes.
I have been given 3 2 small and one bigger.
Can anyone inform me where they go to save me removing ALL of the pipes.
R134a A/C o-rings
Moderator: martauto
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Martinaston
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You'll need 10 and then two new valves. i've just come back from BM's and they want £12 just for the valves, i'll try the tyre shop and get that down to under a quid.
The three you have are for the new pressure switch and the newer valves that fit over the top of the old ones.
The three you have are for the new pressure switch and the newer valves that fit over the top of the old ones.
There is NO nucleus.
You can order the O rings seperately Sam. Have a count up and see how many and what sizes you need.
There are roughly ten in all. I will have a close look tomorrow as I have an A/C system on the bench.
There are roughly ten in all. I will have a close look tomorrow as I have an A/C system on the bench.
Thanks alot dameon that would be great. im going to the south of france in 4 weeks and it will most likely be scorthing. Especially on black leathers!!!!
I have the correct compressor and a new reciever drier and the new filling/empty valve's. all i need now are the r134a o-ring.
As i said 3 doesnt seem like enough.
I have the correct compressor and a new reciever drier and the new filling/empty valve's. all i need now are the r134a o-ring.
As i said 3 doesnt seem like enough.
Correct compressor? I didn't realise there was a incorrect one. Is this a retrofit that you're doing or refurbing the system already fitted. As far as I know all the E30 compressors are compatible with R134a 
Could you confirm what you meant by that?
Anyhow, I'll have a good look at it tomorrow for you.
Could you confirm what you meant by that?
Anyhow, I'll have a good look at it tomorrow for you.
pre 88 arent compatable. Its the seiko seiki compressors that are the ones to have. So im led to belive.
I have an original factroy set up. i have had it all out before during my rebuild so im familiar with it.
Do you have the bosch type dameon? there are types that are incompatable.
I have an original factroy set up. i have had it all out before during my rebuild so im familiar with it.
Do you have the bosch type dameon? there are types that are incompatable.
Sam,
You need to order the following O rings.
No. (1) 64508390601 Qty 5
No. (2) 64508390602 Qty 2
No. (3) 64508390603 Qty 2
No. (4) 64508390604 Qty 1
Looking at it as a circuit it goes like this - starting at the Compressor hot side (4) - Bulkhead joint (3) - Evaporator (3) - out of the evaporator (1) - to Bulkhead joint (1) - Dryer (1) - out of Dryer (1) - into Condensor (1) - out of condensor (2) - into compressor (2)
Hope that helps you out..
Edit: just got your PM, will have a look in the morning for you.
You need to order the following O rings.
No. (1) 64508390601 Qty 5
No. (2) 64508390602 Qty 2
No. (3) 64508390603 Qty 2
No. (4) 64508390604 Qty 1
Looking at it as a circuit it goes like this - starting at the Compressor hot side (4) - Bulkhead joint (3) - Evaporator (3) - out of the evaporator (1) - to Bulkhead joint (1) - Dryer (1) - out of Dryer (1) - into Condensor (1) - out of condensor (2) - into compressor (2)
Hope that helps you out..
Edit: just got your PM, will have a look in the morning for you.
Actaully dameon there is. i dont want to push my luck here but i have a new pressure switch and i dont know what to do with the 4 wires. my old one just had 2 connectors going onto it.
so now im left with 2 connectors and 4 wires and no electrical knowledge...I imagine its something to do with high/low pressure ...maybe 
I cant use the old one as it wont fit
pics below
New
Old
so now im left with 2 connectors and 4 wires and no electrical knowledge...I imagine its something to do with high/low pressure
...maybe I cant use the old one as it wont fit
pics below
New
Old
the 2 blue wires are supposed to go to the condenser and the 2 balc and green are the compressor relay. But not all systems need both functions to be wired in and i dont know if E30's need both to be wired in.
how is your pressure switch wired in Dameon?
how is your pressure switch wired in Dameon?
Sam, the E30 as standard has two switches in the dryer, one low and one high pressure. As far as I understand, the new switch from BMW cuts out hi/lo as a single pole two wire device. However you have an aftermarket binary switch that does both on two circuits. As you said, one circuit protects the compressor from low pressure and the other protects the system from overpressure.
I would wire both circuits individually as the original BMW system. Ian Haynes would be the best person to query here but I believe that as long as both circuits open and disengage the compressor in the event of a hi/lo situation, then it doesn't matter which switch you apply to which circuit. I don't have a wiring diagram to hand so can't tell you and my memory from the last time is terrible!
I would wire both circuits individually as the original BMW system. Ian Haynes would be the best person to query here but I believe that as long as both circuits open and disengage the compressor in the event of a hi/lo situation, then it doesn't matter which switch you apply to which circuit. I don't have a wiring diagram to hand so can't tell you and my memory from the last time is terrible!
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Martinaston
- E30 Zone Addict
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- Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: London
You could just link the two switces together in series and it should work the same as the original.
But are the blue wires one switch and the black the other or is it a blue and a black on each
But are the blue wires one switch and the black the other or is it a blue and a black on each
There is NO nucleus.
In answer to that I would use a multimeter and find which pair is which. I would think that Blue/Blue and Black/Black are pairs.
The Hella website lists this as a trinary switch which does low/medium/high pressure, this means that it will be in circuit on both pairs whilst at medium pressure. Ie. when the pressure is too low or high then one pair goes open circuit.
HTH.
Sam, if you get really stuck then come over to my place with the switch..
The Hella website lists this as a trinary switch which does low/medium/high pressure, this means that it will be in circuit on both pairs whilst at medium pressure. Ie. when the pressure is too low or high then one pair goes open circuit.
HTH.
Sam, if you get really stuck then come over to my place with the switch..
Ok thanks for the offer Dameon. I will have a good stab at it first. I have some wiring diagrams with it but they all say 'if your car has x setup do x and if it has x setup do x. So i just get confused and paranoid that i will do more damage than good!
Thanks
Thanks
sorry to but in but i had the same problem with my ac system brought a new resiver dryer and it only had space for one switch i no you all ready no this but to save cuting in to your loome you can still get the earler dryer witch your old switches will go straight in either call mobil air or partco cost me about 30 quid also got a brand new condensor for 35 quid from euro car parts and belive it or not it was right first time !!!!
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ian332isport
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Fine if you're sticking with r12 (or a drop in replacement), but won't work with r134a, as the pressure switches are wrong (switch at different pressures).dano0 wrote:sorry to but in but i had the same problem with my ac system brought a new resiver dryer and it only had space for one switch i no you all ready no this but to save cuting in to your loome you can still get the earler dryer witch your old switches will go straight in either call mobil air or partco cost me about 30 quid also got a brand new condensor for 35 quid from euro car parts and belive it or not it was right first time !!!!
If it aint broke - Modify it...
the kit ive got on mine came with this dryer and its a 134a setup the later compressor ect ect r12 and 134a both work at the same pressures its just a diffrent gas his system worked on the earler swithes before why would,nt it now????
With the existing set up both switches are closed when the gas pressure is within the high and low limits, so with your switch out of the box, un-plumbed, one of the switches should be open circuit - that should identify the low pressure switch. The remaining two wires are for the high pressure switch, which will be closed ie. have continuity.
On your old r/d the HP switch is the one with just the metal prongs coming out. The LP switch is the one with the two short leads coming out.
On your old r/d the HP switch is the one with just the metal prongs coming out. The LP switch is the one with the two short leads coming out.
to be honist either switces will work just make up your mind witch to youse as you all ready have the new type dryer and switch id youse that just cut off your old connectors and do as niiick said to find out witch wires are witch and it should work. i was just to tight to bye the modified switch good luck