1.1 TO 1.3 Motronic on a 1986 325i

[Kedge]

Dave, just to confirm, it's only part 2 that needs changing
on my set up, not part 1:?:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=20

Affraid not Rob, that'd be too easy, it's #1 you are changing and reusing #2.

Kedge, can I leave this one with you now, for any changes/updates?

Yea no problem, you can just recheck for formatting purposes if you like Will try to get some added over the next couple of nights while i'm at work.

[gooner1]

Cheers Dave
Does the toothed wheel need to come from a 325i

[Kedge]

Not too sure on that Rob, i'd say it'd at least have to come from an M20.

[Kedge]

Here's a picture that'll give you a good idea where the pulley is and how it fits, water pump pulley needs to come off as well.



The outer pulley unbolts and then the toothed pulley will just slide off it's locating pin.

[Kedge]

Quick question, the small sensor under the manifold in the block. Is that for oil pressure or is it just a level sensor? Also is for the check control panel function?



There are two options with this, either use the sensor from a facelift block to match the facelift loom or chop the plug off the facelift loom and fit a spade connector. Or in my case if it's just a check panel function, do nothing at all since my car was just a 316.

[e30topless]

it's oil pressure, and the toothed wheel is the same on 320i and 325i

[Kedge]

Cheers Steve, that mean it's only of any use if the car has a check control panel?

Did you say you've done Jetronic to M1.3? If so is it all pretty much the same just with the added job of the distributor as per the Wiki?

[e30topless]

actually I think it's the oil level sender ! and the sender on the front of the lower sump is for the check control !!

yep done jet to 1.3 it's pretty much the same but for the dizzy, but when removing the dizzy from jet the blanking plate needs to go back in from the 1.3, IIRC the blank also has a bearing which guides the oil pump drive

[Kedge]

Bit high up to be a sender isn't it?

Still sounds fairly simple then, just get to get my head round the blanking plate bit as i can't picture the difference on the two. Might take mine apart when i get sometime.

[hongkongfuey]

I have a complete, setup for a 1.3 swap, loom, ecu, pullies, sensors,leads,brackets etc, let me know if any one needs

[Brianmoooore]

'Sensor' in the pic. is the oil pressure switch - for the red 'stop the engine right NOW' light on the instrument panel - nothing to do with the 'check' panel.
The early and late switches are identical in function, but have different connectors, so the old switch needs to be replaced by the later type.

[Kedge]

Thanks Brian. Surely just swapping the plug on loom would work instead of changing the switch?

[Brianmoooore]

It would, but that would be a bodge, IMO. Removing a proper sealed connector and replacing it with a spade terminal that you would expect to find in some '70's British Leyland cr*p.

[Grrrmachine]

Kedge, this bit is already covered as the Oil Level Sensor in the Jetronic part of the Wiki article

[Kedge]

Very valid point that Brian, i'll be after a facelift sensor for my car then!

Rich, it's only the level sensor that's covered in the Wiki, the one that sits in the sump on the near side, this is in the block on the offside.

[gooner1]

Dave, just PM'ed you mate.
Started disconnecting all my 1.0 Loom this afternoon.
All good until I found that the Injector loom part seems to be incorporated into
the rest of the engine loom.

Bearing in mind that I intended to use my original injectors, and other people
have managed to do this, how do they manage to seperate the two looms

[clipper]

Surely you're just replacing the original "one piece" loom with a more modern (and more prone to failure ) "two piece" loom ?

[gooner1]

Surely you're just replacing the original "one piece" loom with a more modern (and more prone to failure ) "two piece" loom ?

To be honest, if I could have used my lightened Flywheel
with my original Loom, I may well have not bothered.

[Brianmoooore]

Why are you trying to split the loom? Swap in the whole thing.

[Kedge]

Rob, i've replied to your PM. As already said here though, you take the whole loom out and replace with the 2 piece M1.3 loom.

[Brianmoooore]

Since when has a M1.3 engine loom been in two pieces?

[Kedge]

I'm trying to make things clearer for Rob here Brian.

The old M1.0 loom he is removing is all once piece (injector loom doesn't unplug), i've refered to the M1.3 as a two piece since the Injector loom unplugs. Yes i guess that means it's two sperate looms but to those of us that aren't technical types and do this as a hobby it might be easier to understand with that kind of description

[Brianmoooore]

Ah, right. I see what you mean by "two piece now"!

[Kedge]

Ah, right. I see what you mean by "two piece now"!

[gooner1]

So, both the later 1.3 Looms I have, should have come with the Injector loom

[clipper]

TBH it begs the question why BMW thought it was a good idea to suddenly introduce a plug in the injector "sub-loom" in the first place...
I've had my chromie for nearly 9 years now, done quite a bit of work on the engine, but never once thought "if only the injector part of the loom unplugged from the rest of the motor loom"..... I wonder what BMW's reasoning for it was at the time ?

And yes, if I bought a Motronic 1.3 motor loom, I'd expect it come with the injector loom too, but maybe that's just me.

[e30topless]

So, both the later 1.3 Looms I have, should have come with the Injector loom

yes

88's usually had a plug-in injector loom with individual injector plugs (and the blue and brown temp sensor) just like the one piece early 1.0 or jetronic,

a plastic rail type will do you just fine Rob, if you don't have one I can send you one for the post cost

[Speedtouch]

TBH it begs the question why BMW thought it was a good idea to suddenly introduce a plug in the injector "sub-loom" in the first place...

At a guess, it would be to cater for the fitting of either 4- or 6-pot (or diesel) engines to the same bodyshell, while keeping the main wiring loom the same across the board, thus rationalisation of parts and hence, production costs.

[clipper]

TBH it begs the question why BMW thought it was a good idea to suddenly introduce a plug in the injector "sub-loom" in the first place...

At a guess, it would be to cater for the fitting of either 4- or 6-pot (or diesel) engines to the same bodyshell, while keeping the main wiring loom the same across the board, thus rationalisation of parts and hence, production costs.

Good rationale that man.

[Brianmoooore]

Good rationale that man.

But unfortunately, totally wrong.
The different engines option is taken care of by the C101 engine loom lug and socket. The only reason I can think of for the introduction of the detachable injector loom on later M20s is so that the inlet manifold can be removed and fitted as a complete assembly.
Performing the BMW approved mod of a little nick in the lower rubber boot, backed up by a little silicon grease will ensure it never gives trouble.

[gooner1]

So, both the later 1.3 Looms I have, should have come with the Injector loom

yes

88's usually had a plug-in injector loom with individual injector plugs (and the blue and brown temp sensor) just like the one piece early 1.0 or jetronic,

a plastic rail type will do you just fine Rob, if you don't have one I can send you one for the post cost

PM'ed Steve.

[gooner1]

Have now removed all of my old Loom
However, i have the two leads, pictured above, remaining.
Both were connected to the + connection to the Battery terminal.
The thicker of the two goes directly into the fusebox, the thinner
one leads under the fusebox, not sure if it enters it somewhere.
Any ideas on what they are, and if so do I just connect them
to the + Battery terminal on the 1.3 Loom

While I'm here, how does the Injector Loom that Steve has kindly posted FOC, , connect to the Injectors themselves
Could someone kindly post a pic of the relevant area.
Thanks.

[Brianmoooore]

If it's plain red, it connects directly to 12 volts live - in this case, directly to the battery +.
One is the power feed to the fusebox, and on to the ignition switch and the rest of the car.
The other one is the feed to the ABS pump.
Injector loom just snaps onto the injectors.

[gooner1]

Thanks Brian.

[gooner1]

Right, there is no way my Ecu plug is going to fit through the current aperture
in my Cabs Bulkhead.
So, as I'm only trial fitting this 1.3 Loom to see if it works before fitting
my 2.8 rebuild block, can i just leave the Ecu lead, with Ecu attached in the engine bay.
Not bothered too much with the instrument side of things atm, so with this in mind, what is the bare minimum of stuff I need to connect.
I'm thinking Battery leads, Coil, Starter motor and alternator.
Anything I've missed among that lot