alot of engine help... please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Billwill
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Post Fri Dec 20, 2013 2:43 pm

You obviously replaced your 80 deg C thermostat with the correct....for the M40....88 deg C thermostat so now your temperature is now good. The 80 deg C thermostat is for the 6 pots.
The temperature gauge looks a bit high to me though on idle...make sure your viscous fan is working properly....when the engine is cold you should be able to stop the fan with a rolled up newspaper...once the engine warms up the newspaper should not stop the fan!

Also make sure you have bled the system properly...on the M40 the front of the car should be parked facing up a hill or on jacks. You need to bleed out the air at the metal screw on the thermostat housing and also on the large black plastic screw on the plastic reservoir bottle next to the radiator. Also use the correct anti-freeze/water ratio.

Do not get confused about the method of adjusting the idle. The throttle cable must be relaxed and the screw that adjusts the throttle opening is factory set as stated and should not be moved..if it has been moved then adjust this screw until the "butterfly" virtually closes off the throttle body.

At this stage you should hear the TPS switch under the throttle body "click" as the throttle is relaxed...this means the TPS switch is making properly and tells the ECU to handle the idle.
The fact that you have the idle fine now means that you have achieved this so do not move that throttle stop screw again!

That spare connector is definitely for the carbon canister...I have cable tied mine out of the way.

The screw on the AFM is for the Oxygen mixture...if you have bad fuel economy you will need to have the air mixture checked and then adjusted at that screw.

Good luck with your M40...it is a great engine if you replace the timing belt when due and maintain the oil and oil filter changes. Sludgey oil will block the small holes that oil the camshaft lobes and cause early wear...engine gets noisy and will not rev into the red! :wink:
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Brianmoooore
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Post Fri Dec 20, 2013 3:04 pm

Billwill wrote:
The screw on the AFM is for the Oxygen mixture...if you have bad fuel economy you will need to have the air mixture checked and then adjusted at that screw.
Again, this was adjusted at the factory, and never needs moving. If the mixture is wrong, then that indicates that there is a fault (usually worn injectors or inlet side air leaks) that need attending to.
There is normally a red seal over this adjustment to stop it being messed with, but if this is not present there's no way of telling if a muppet has been there, and it's a sad fact that most E30s have now been in the hands of a muppet or two by now.
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BenHar
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Post Fri Dec 20, 2013 3:22 pm

Useful document here: http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j& ... eIAn8QFeIA

Sorry about the strange google link.

Ben
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benurminge
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Post Sun Dec 22, 2013 5:53 pm

okay guys more news. I brought a new throttle body off ebay as my tps was not clicking and this refurbished throttle body was cheaper then a new tps!!

I can now hear the tps click.

BUT... the engine still idles around 1700-2000 rpm and now I am not touching anything on the throttle body because I no everything is wear it should be...

which is leading me on to either the AFM or the ICV.

my suspect is the idle control valve. the Haynes manual says if the ICV connector is unplugged the engine will idle around 2000 rpm... interesting.

I havnt even begin to look at the ICV so il do all the tests on that, it might just need a clean out. and see where that gets me.

fingers crossed I don't need a new one as they are £100...

what do you guys think?

and yes engine temp never goes above half way now I bleed it correctly.

cheers guys.
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benurminge
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Post Sun Dec 22, 2013 5:58 pm

sorry the first bit isn't explained well...
a refurbished throttle body with TPS was cheaper then a new tps on its own.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sun Dec 22, 2013 6:16 pm

Disconnect the ICV feed hose under the big air tube, and block both ends with your fingers when the engine is idling. What does this do to the idle speed?
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benurminge
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Post Sun Dec 22, 2013 6:20 pm

okay il test that tomorrow. how does that disconnect? just yank it?

what should happen? engine cut out? is this testing for air leaks?

cheers
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sun Dec 22, 2013 6:36 pm

Just pushes in - a double ended plastic joiner, linking a stub on the big hose and the feed hose to the ICV. Don't dislodge the other end at the ICV itself.
You are testing to see if the throttle butterfly itself is closing anything like the required amount. If it is, the engine should struggle to run, only turning over at around 450 RPM or so. The ICV can only increase idle speed, not reduce it.
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benurminge
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Post Tue Dec 24, 2013 11:03 am

right, good new only this time (for now!)

start the bmw this morning to drive it around my mates for him to help me check the ICV and get it running properly. I took the elect connector on the ICV off to check weather it was a 2 pin or 3 and plugged it back it, start idling at 2000rpm at first, let it warm up abit and started to drive to my mates, 2 mins later it was idling like a dream!?

note this is the first time I have drove it since I fitted the new throttle body and TPS.
which I didn't think changed anything as I started it on my drive aftert and let it warm up and there was no change.

so either the throttle body and new TPS fixed it and it just needed a little run for things to adjust and reset.

or unplugging and plugging in the ICV done something and that fixed it.

either way happy days for now!!

still getting water in my rear arch sections in the boot where the medic-kit is fitted and the other side.

when I jet washed the car before a wash and wax the other day I sat in the boot whilst my dad jet washed it and no water came in... could it be from the air vent from this heavy weather which have drains attached from the sunroof (I think?) or either coming up from the arch from spray?

whats common? shouldn't be from spray on the arches as I just got some welding done on the rear arches...