Anyone done a head gasket before. We need to change one on our track car. 325 (M20).
Haynes doesnt appear to be much use.
Anyone got any info on how long this takes, new bits needed and a step by step guide for dummies would also be useful !
Also what has happended to ther zone shop there is no longher a link??
head gasket replacment
Moderator: martauto
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march109
- Engaged to the E30 Zone
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Zone shop is now the Evolve link!
Can't help on the other, sorry never done it myself.
Can't help on the other, sorry never done it myself.
325i Tech 1 Touring, breaking.
2.5 high comp. M20, 3.64 LSD, Fully undersealed, Spax springs & Bilstein shocks, s/s exhaust, Alpina rep wheels and more.
2.5 high comp. M20, 3.64 LSD, Fully undersealed, Spax springs & Bilstein shocks, s/s exhaust, Alpina rep wheels and more.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
New bits required are a gasket set and a set of bolts.
New bits to be considered are cam belt and idler, thermostat, water pump, and exhaust studs.
The head should be lightly skimmed while it's off, even if just to get a professional to give an opinion on it.
Tools required are a torque wrench with a torx bit to suit the head bolts, and an angle torque gauge.
Head bolts must be undone and torqued up in the correct order. Mark a line on the head of each bolt with a marker after the initial tightening with a torque wrench. That way you can check if you've remembered to angle torque all the bolts properly when you've finished.
Take the inlet manifold off before removing the head, leave the exhaust on. DON'T break the exhaust studs when you do remove it.
New bits to be considered are cam belt and idler, thermostat, water pump, and exhaust studs.
The head should be lightly skimmed while it's off, even if just to get a professional to give an opinion on it.
Tools required are a torque wrench with a torx bit to suit the head bolts, and an angle torque gauge.
Head bolts must be undone and torqued up in the correct order. Mark a line on the head of each bolt with a marker after the initial tightening with a torque wrench. That way you can check if you've remembered to angle torque all the bolts properly when you've finished.
Take the inlet manifold off before removing the head, leave the exhaust on. DON'T break the exhaust studs when you do remove it.
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bmwe30mtech
- Engaged to the E30 Zone
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- Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 11:00 pm
Just to emphasise this point. Its vital you turn all the bolts this extra 90 degree turn. I forgot when i did mine and the engine kept overheating.Brianmoooore wrote:Mark a line on the head of each bolt with a marker after the initial tightening with a torque wrench. That way you can check if you've remembered to angle torque all the bolts properly when you've finished.
The main thing with a head gasket it to make sure the surfaces are very very clean. Get the head skimmed, and sand the block with wet and dry paper yourself to remove mess.
1988 M3 EvoII, Macau Blue/EvoII trim
1989 325i Sport M Tech II, Diamond Black/Black leather
1989 325i Sport M Tech II, Diamond Black/Black leather
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Vital you do it twice, in fact!bmwe30mtech wrote: Its vital you turn all the bolts this extra 90 degree turn.
id get the head checked for cracks while its off. in fact you should get it reco'd with new stem seals and a valve re-grind.
"DON'T break the exhaust studs when you do remove it."
i always spray them with a lot of wd40 or rost off or what ever u can get. they are a pain.
"DON'T break the exhaust studs when you do remove it."
i always spray them with a lot of wd40 or rost off or what ever u can get. they are a pain.