Central locking and alarm

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BadDave
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Sat Aug 04, 2007 9:28 pm

Just been fitting an alarm system today after EVENTUALLY finding a wiring diagram for it(my OLD Clifford system)

Got the door/bonnet/boot swithches wired up to it and all it's sensors,siren etc :)

Would REALLY like to know which 2 wires I need to tap into at the relay so the alarm can activate the central locking(common lock/unlock)?

ALSO

Where is the best place to tap into the leccy window wiring to fit the window closure module?.

AND

Which wires do I need to look for??.

ALSO

Would like to know which wires to tap into(near relay/stalk if possible) to enable the indicators to flash during the arm/disarm cycle?.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Dave
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Aug 04, 2007 9:57 pm

Connection points for nearly all wires for an alarm/immobiliser are thoughtfully provided by BMW around the area of the glovebox.
Lock request is yellow/blue and unlock request is green/blue. Both are accessible where they go behind the LH speaker panel en route to the LH door socket.
Indicators are blue/black and blue/red, and should be connected at the multipin plug in the front left corner of the glovebox.
BadDave
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Sat Aug 04, 2007 10:27 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:Connection points for nearly all wires for an alarm/immobiliser are thoughtfully provided by BMW around the area of the glovebox.
Lock request is yellow/blue and unlock request is green/blue. Both are accessible where they go behind the LH speaker panel en route to the LH door socket.
Indicators are blue/black and blue/red, and should be connected at the multipin plug in the front left corner of the glovebox.
Thanks Brian :thumb:
Much appreciated

Any ideas about the leccy window wires to close them if accidently left open?

This is the wiring diagram for the closure module
Image

Might need to save it and enlarge it :eek:

Which wires do I need to find for this module to work??
I know there at the swithces,Just wondering which ones

Dave
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Aug 04, 2007 11:25 pm

Saved and enlarged, but still can't read it!
Looks like it just connects to the two motor wires for each window. At the switches, these are the wires that are NOT green/grey (supply) or earth (brown).
BadDave
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Sat Aug 04, 2007 11:30 pm

Thanks Brian

Basically it shows cutting the 2 wires that go from the switch to the leccy motors and connecting them up to the ones from the module for both front windows

As always, your assistance is VERY much appreciated
P.S

Where are you located Brian(to the nearest county)

I'd like to buy you a beer if i'm ever in your neck of the woods

Dave
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Aug 04, 2007 11:37 pm

BadDave wrote:Where are you located Brian(to the nearest county)
Nearly as far from you as you can get! N. Devon.
BadDave
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Sat Aug 04, 2007 11:41 pm

If I ever happen to be down that way OR in a county nearby,I'll take a little detour and buy you a beer or 3 to show my,and the rest of my fellow Zoners appreciation.
You Damn well deserve it.
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smithy318i
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Sun Sep 09, 2007 5:58 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:Connection points for nearly all wires for an alarm/immobiliser are thoughtfully provided by BMW around the area of the glovebox.
Lock request is yellow/blue and unlock request is green/blue. Both are accessible where they go behind the LH speaker panel en route to the LH door socket.
Indicators are blue/black and blue/red, and should be connected at the multipin plug in the front left corner of the glovebox.
Sorry for bringing this up again Brian, but where exactly are these wires?
I dont want to start randomly cutting into the loom to find the correct wires. I assume it is the section marked A
and also, if it is that would mean the wires run through the section marked D ?

Image
Image
BadDave
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Sun Sep 09, 2007 6:21 pm

smithy318i wrote:
Brianmoooore wrote:Connection points for nearly all wires for an alarm/immobiliser are thoughtfully provided by BMW around the area of the glovebox.
Lock request is yellow/blue and unlock request is green/blue. Both are accessible where they go behind the LH speaker panel en route to the LH door socket.
Indicators are blue/black and blue/red, and should be connected at the multipin plug in the front left corner of the glovebox.
Sorry for bringing this up again Brian, but where exactly are these wires?
I dont want to start randomly cutting into the loom to find the correct wires. I assume it is the section marked A
and also, if it is that would mean the wires run through the section marked D ?

Image
I just tapped into mine behind the speaker kick panel
Easy to find the correct wires.
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Brianmoooore
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Sun Sep 09, 2007 9:55 pm

The yellow/blue and green/blue come out from behind the LH speaker and then go downwards and back along the LH cill, so they have to be connected behind the speaker panel.
The blue/red and blue/black for the indicators are available at the big white plug just to the right of the blue relay.
smithy318i
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Mon Sep 10, 2007 12:49 pm

And would the...

Image

be this plug ?

Image
Image
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Brianmoooore
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Mon Sep 10, 2007 7:47 pm

Yes, but the wire going to the right is going to an existing immobiliser. If you want to retain this and use the new one, cut one of the green wires on the RH cable, and connect your immobiliser to the two cut ends.
JPTas
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Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:09 pm

Hi guys,

Been trawling through the posts on immobilising E30s and I keep seeing reference to the 'green loop' behind the glovebox taped to the loom. I haven't quite figured out exactly what this does, other than that it has something to do with a factory option immobilisation circuit? (Fuel pump relay related?)

Pardon my ignorance, but is it not a simple matter (if you were a thief) of separating this plug from a connected immobiliser and fitting a loop of wire to activate whatever is being immobilised? Would it not be better to solder a connection upstream of this 'loop' point? Or do you figure if they got that far they'll get past it anyway?

Also, I've started to fit an alarm/immobiliser system to my '89 325is (Aus) by connecting to wires next to the steering column, but I'm now thinking from comments here that it is better to do it behind the glovebox? :(

If my immobiliser has two normally open immobilisation circuits, what's the best way to attack immobilising the car? I've read the guru Brianmoore's comments on grounding fuel pump wire being better etc, but I don't quite get how to do this. :mad:

Sorry for the length, but I have obviously been under-utilizing the E30 Zone despite having had E30s for over 6 years and I now have lots of questions!! Thanks for all your tips and avice! :D

JP
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Brianmoooore
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Sun Sep 16, 2007 3:12 pm

JPTas wrote:Hi guys,

Been trawling through the posts on immobilising E30s and I keep seeing reference to the 'green loop' behind the glovebox taped to the loom. I haven't quite figured out exactly what this does, other than that it has something to do with a factory option immobilisation circuit? (Fuel pump relay related?)

Pardon my ignorance, but is it not a simple matter (if you were a thief) of separating this plug from a connected immobiliser and fitting a loop of wire to activate whatever is being immobilised? Would it not be better to solder a connection upstream of this 'loop' point? Or do you figure if they got that far they'll get past it anyway?

Also, I've started to fit an alarm/immobiliser system to my '89 325is (Aus) by connecting to wires next to the steering column, but I'm now thinking from comments here that it is better to do it behind the glovebox? :(

If my immobiliser has two normally open immobilisation circuits, what's the best way to attack immobilising the car? I've read the guru Brianmoore's comments on grounding fuel pump wire being better etc, but I don't quite get how to do this. :mad:
BMW have provided a socket above the glovebox which is simply a break in the ignition feed wire to the engine loom. On cars with no factory fitted immobiliser this socket has a plug inserted into it which has just a short loop of green wire connected between its two pins to complete the circuit. If the car has a factory fitted immobiliser, the alarm unit will be plugged into this socket, and the loop of wire with a plug will just be tied up to the loom nearby.
As you say, this is easily bypassed. Most easily by a wire from the battery + terminal to the + terminal on the coil.
Your immobiliser most probably has two normally closed contacts, which open when the alarm is activated, not normally open.
These are best used to break the ignition circuit, as per factory alarm, and to break the feed to the fuel pump, which is a green/purple wire coming down the snorkel tube from the fusebox to behind the glovebox, and then disappearing behind the LH speaker panel.
Earthing the fuel pump wire is better than open circuiting it, because if an attempt to bypass the immobiliser is made by linking the coil to battery, then the fuel pump fuse will blow, giving the potential thief even more problems. To do this, you will need an immobiliser with one normally open or a changeover contact.
JPTas
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Mon Sep 17, 2007 12:42 am

Thanks Brianmooore, you really know your stuff!

...but please clarify a couple of things for me.

This is the alarm system I have http://www.dynamco.com.au/cgi-bin/produ ... odel=P775B

It says that it has two 30amp normally open contacts for the immobiliser. The 'activated' alarm state would therefore break any circuit connected across the immobilisation wires (not drawing power, relay open), and re-connect the circuit when the alarm is deactivated (drawing power, relay closed), yes?

Connection is as in the diagram above - cut the wire and join each end to an immobiliser wire. I'm not sure if the relay being in the open position (when system armed) grounds whatever wire is connected, or open-circuits it. Is there a general rule?

With the green loop (ignition feed wire), the alarm requires a wire to tell it when the ignition is on. If I use this loop for one of the immobilisation circuits, what can I use for the ignition input? I have already hacked into the yellow/black starter wire under the steering column (going to move it all to the glovebox), but does the green loop take care of this anyway?

Crikey, why didn't I just get the man to do it for me!!!

Your help is truly invaluable!!
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Brianmoooore
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Mon Sep 17, 2007 9:12 am

This alarm has plenty of whistles and bells, but like most of them, is not at all difficult to bypass.
It appears that they do not provide a relay contact that you can use to short circuit the fuel pump supply, although there is some mention of a third contact available as a special order.
It does have its own back up battery, which is good, but to be effective, this needs to be in the siren housing (as with the OE BMW alarm), and the siren placed where it can't be reached (as is the horn for the alarm built into the OBC).
You can use the wires to the 'green loop' as one of the immobiliser circuits, and take your ignition feed from the same wire - you'll have to check with a lamp to find which one.
There is another plug and socket above the glovebox for breaking into the black/yellow starter wire, but, again this is easily bypassed by a wire link in the diagnostic socket.
I wouldn't advise immobilising the starter circuit, as cranking an engine that won't start is likely to attract the attention of passers by.
JPTas
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Mon Sep 17, 2007 11:10 am

Thanks Brianmoore, good advice as always.

So what really is the point of an immobiliser if so many can be easily bypassed if you know where to poke and prod? I suppose the benefit of an alarm is a deterrent before they can get to doing bypassy type stuff.

So with the two immobilisation circuits that I have, what would be the best way to proceed?
The green loop plus the fuel pump? Would that be ok? Even though the fuel pump wire will not be grounded? I will ask about getting a relay contact that will short to ground - does this make it fail-safe? At least until they find the immobiliser and re-route the wires... :wink:
Is the ignition loop separate to the starter - ie will the starter still crank if the green loop is immobilised? (attracting attention)
Whoever thought it was so easy to get around an immobiliser! Not me that's for sure. Not such a problem with theft where I am though...touch wood.

Brian, you are doing well if you don't have a gigantic ego by now because you are such a champion!
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Scoupe
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Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:54 pm

nearly finished mine now, after having wiring threading, and rain problems :roll:

does anybody happen to know if the central locking is a "negative pulsed" system?
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Scoupe
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Tue Oct 23, 2007 1:30 pm

and whilst im at it, does anyone know what number is the fuse for the interior light, and the constant for the stereo please?

cheers guys
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Brianmoooore
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Tue Oct 23, 2007 2:38 pm

Alarm designers/fitters use different terminology from me, but the C/L is momentarily earthed to operate, so I would assume this is 'negative pulsed'.
Interior light and constant supply for radio memory are on fuse 21
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Scoupe
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Tue Oct 23, 2007 4:35 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:Alarm designers/fitters use different terminology from me, but the C/L is momentarily earthed to operate, so I would assume this is 'negative pulsed'.
yeah thats the one mate, spot on!

and cheers for the fuse!

As a slightly random aside (and not an effort to hi-jack the topic!) Do you get all of this information from somewhere? Or is it all from your head?

Cheers again mate!
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Brianmoooore
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Tue Oct 23, 2007 7:25 pm

Scoupe wrote:As a slightly random aside (and not an effort to hi-jack the topic!) Do you get all of this information from somewhere? Or is it all from your head?!
Don't tell anyone, but half of it comes straight out of the E30 owner's handbook, that originally came with your car.
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grantfk10
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Tue Oct 23, 2007 11:26 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:Don't tell anyone, but half of it comes straight out of the E30 owner's handbook, that originally came with your car.

Lol, maybe a small part of that IS true, but you know your E30's!

Pity I only just found out through reading this thread that you're in N.Devon. :cry: I was down that way in June and could have dropped by.
BadDave could've given me some £Â£ to get you a few beers, lol!!!
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Scoupe
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Wed Oct 24, 2007 12:56 am

Brianmoooore wrote:
Scoupe wrote:As a slightly random aside (and not an effort to hi-jack the topic!) Do you get all of this information from somewhere? Or is it all from your head?!
Don't tell anyone, but half of it comes straight out of the E30 owner's handbook, that originally came with your car.
I presumed that the really simple stuff would've been, but I didn't get a handbook with the car :(. Cheers anyway mate is all good stuff
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