service lights/temp/rev counter

[andye30nut]

when the batteriers are knackerd does that affect the temp gauge and rev counter?

[dan16229]

I dont think it should effect the rev counter, could be wrong, but it will definatley effect your temp gauge and service lights

[Chris-W]

Yes, it can affect the rev counter as well.

[Brianmoooore]

The batteries don't just fail - they go short circuit and drag down the supply voltage to other things.
Rev counter and temp gauge can be affected, and if the batteries leak, they can corrode the board and cause even more problems!

[andye30nut]

if i replace the batteries will that fix the problem

[dan16229]

Yeah will do, if you find replacement batteries let me know, i tried allover, maplins, farnell nobody seems to do em

[Chris-W]

Better to sort a replacement board - if the batteries have leaked, replacing them is the first of your problems.

[Brianmoooore]

As Chris-W says - if they have leaked, the board is scrap. If they haven't, then CPC (part of Farnell) do a 2/3 AA size NiMH tag ended battery that is suitable. Tags wont fit the board, but the shorter length allows you to fit wire links.

[andye30nut]

ive got a spare set clocks but there just the same il try find one else where cheers guys. if another board is the same could there be any other faults? cheers

[slinky2000]

I suppose if they've leaked also the petrol guage could be affected also??

[DrBen]

my board originally had 2 aa nicads and before i got the car one was replaced by diodes and a 3.6v lithium AA soldered in the other spot..

[Dr Firefly]

I suppose if they've leaked also the petrol guage could be affected also??

Doesn't give you a definite answer, but when I sorted exactly this problem it didn't fix my petrol gauge - it was the sensor in my tank that had died.

If you haven't got the faulty revs, temp, mpg gauge or mad service indicator lights I wouldn't be suspecting the SI board. There's a grounding nut on the back of the fuel gauge that often comes loose and makes it flicker all over - use the search with something like "nut fuel gauge" and look for threads where Brianmooore's posted for more info

[Dr Firefly]

Has anyone every done that mod where you extend wires to under the dash knee-roll panel, so that if they ever go again you can change the battery much more easily. Thought it sounded like a good idea but don't know where I heard it.

[slinky2000]

I also read that post, I'm thinkin of doin that when I get around to takin my SI board out.

my problems are:

faulty fuel guage,
faulty temp guage (even after replacing thermostats)
SI lights do not work atall
handbrake, abs, brake wear lights don not work (they could all be the bulbs)

[Brianmoooore]

I also read that post, I'm thinkin of doin that when I get around to takin my SI board out.

my problems are:

faulty fuel guage,
faulty temp guage (even after replacing thermostats)
SI lights do not work atall
handbrake, abs, brake wear lights don not work (they could all be the bulbs)

Fairly pointless fixing remote batteries for something that only has to be done about once every fifeteen years!

Fuel gauge - very unlikely to be anything to do with with SI batteries. Depending on what the symptoms are, the problem is much more likely to be with the level sender(s) in the tank - some models have two.

Temp gauge - small brass nut on the back of the cluster, and SI batteries are probably dud.

SI lights - If nothing lights at all, then it's possible that someone has removed the small daughter board with the lights on it! + the batteries are probably dud.

Handbrake light - bulb or wire has come out of switch on top of the back of the lever.
ABS light - probably removed to mask faulty ABS.
Break wear light - Also probably removed to mask faulty circuit. Look up '220 ohm resistor' in the forum archives.

This car has obviously previously been owned by a complete muppet / skinflint / bodger, so expect anything, anywhere!

[slinky2000]

lol fair enough, ABS defo works now, got that sorted at the weekend there. still light doesnt work

Fuel gauge - from empty to full is about 30 litres, goes up and down normal but obv doesnt show the full tank range.

Temp gauge - screwed the brass nut but still doesnt go above 1/4 temp

others - havnt a clue

[Brianmoooore]

lol fair enough, ABS defo works now, got that sorted at the weekend there. still light doesnt work

Fuel gauge - from empty to full is about 30 litres, goes up and down normal but obv doesnt show the full tank range.

Temp gauge - screwed the brass nut but still doesnt go above 1/4 temp

others - havnt a clue

ABS light is a bulb in a holder on flying leads that pushes into a hole in the back of the cluster, with the wires coming across from behind the radio area.
Is it physically there, with a bulb in it. Should come on with ignition and go out when the engine starts.
Fuel gauge: Either your cluster is fitted with a two sender fuel gauge, and your tank only has one sender, or it has two senders, and one is stuck at full. Look under the LH inspection plate under the rear seat cushion, and see if there is a level sender there.
Temp gauge: 1/4 temp mark is quite normal. As long as it's well clear of both the blue and red sections, and doesn't move around much under normal driving, then it's fine.
The gauge is not linear - the centre section only covers a few degrees.

[dan16229]

I was having a problem with the instrument cluster which after reading this post led me to believe the battery bourd was dead, the symptoms were:-
1. ABS light not coming on when ignition in position 1
2. SI board showing inspection and all 5 lights on
3. Temp gauge stuck at full as soon as ignition switched on
Today i took the instrument cluster out and found the ABS bulb holder not in the hole (thanks brianmoooore) , ground nut totally missing from temp gauge (thanks firefly) , but am still having a problem with the service lights, so I reset them, now when I turn the ignition on it reads inspection and all lights are on, when I start the engine I still get inspection but only have the amber and red lds on, so I took the battery board out and tested the voltage with a multimeter and they both read 3volts each, now I think I must have a newer battery board because the two batteries are not AA as described in other posts, they are shorter but wider, could I have another problem somewhere? or is it just the batteries are not dead yet but on there way out?

[Brianmoooore]

but am still having a problem with the service lights, so I reset them, now when I turn the ignition on it reads inspection and all lights are on, when I start the engine I still get inspection but only have the amber and red lds on, so I took the battery board out and tested the voltage with a multimeter and they both read 3volts each, now I think I must have a newer battery board because the two batteries are not AA as described in other posts, they are shorter but wider, could I have another problem somewhere? or is it just the batteries are not dead yet but on there way out?

These later boards don't normally give trouble.
Are you sure you are resetting the lights properly?
The lithium batteries don't go short circuit if and when they fail (never seen any yet), and aren't actually used when the car battery is connected. They are solely for memory retention when the car battery is disconnected. If a SI board with these batteries is stored for a long time, then the batteries should be disconnected by removing a link on the board.