The car started first time this morning with no problems, drove to work, parked up as normal, Came out later on and the car started first time as always, drove for about ten min's and then it just lost power.
Car is turning over freely and sounds find but it's not firing or even trying to, it just keeps turning, tried to bump start it but still nothing.
Any ideas where to start, I've checked the plugs and leads etc no problem there, and there is no petrol smell so I'm guessing It may be a fuelling problem.
HELP
E30 320 Cut out while driving
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DaveGT
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Last edited by DaveGT on Wed Jan 10, 2007 11:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
Health and Safety Officer: "What would happen if a cameraman were to slip over?"
Clarkson: "Well, he'd probably have to stand back up again"
Clarkson: "Well, he'd probably have to stand back up again"
- Brianmoooore
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Fuel pump probably.
First, pull up the rear seat cushion, then remove the oval cover on the RH side.
Pull out the fuel pump relay (probably orange, and remember which socket it came from - you probably have an unused socket there as well) under the plastic cover near the air filter, and link together pins 30 and 87 of its socket with a short piece of wire.
This should make the fuel pump run, so go and listen. Should be able to hear it buzzing easily with the inspection cover off. If its not, check fuse 11 is OK, then go give the pump a good thump and with luck it will come back to life.
Last time I had to do this, I used a 10" 1/2" socket extension bar to administer the treatment.
First, pull up the rear seat cushion, then remove the oval cover on the RH side.
Pull out the fuel pump relay (probably orange, and remember which socket it came from - you probably have an unused socket there as well) under the plastic cover near the air filter, and link together pins 30 and 87 of its socket with a short piece of wire.
This should make the fuel pump run, so go and listen. Should be able to hear it buzzing easily with the inspection cover off. If its not, check fuse 11 is OK, then go give the pump a good thump and with luck it will come back to life.
Last time I had to do this, I used a 10" 1/2" socket extension bar to administer the treatment.
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DaveGT
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Hi
Thanks for the info.
Got back to the car this afternoon and it kept turning over again without firing, let if again for a few mins tock the back seat out ready to start work but decided to get it one last chance and the bloody thing started?? Still sound like a feul pump?? Going to replace it anyway i think to be on the safe side
Thanks for the info.
Got back to the car this afternoon and it kept turning over again without firing, let if again for a few mins tock the back seat out ready to start work but decided to get it one last chance and the bloody thing started?? Still sound like a feul pump?? Going to replace it anyway i think to be on the safe side
Health and Safety Officer: "What would happen if a cameraman were to slip over?"
Clarkson: "Well, he'd probably have to stand back up again"
Clarkson: "Well, he'd probably have to stand back up again"
- Brianmoooore
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Non starting car can be lots of things, but, until it's been proved otherwise, or you come up with symptoms that suggest otherwise, fuel pump is favourite
Bit weird but exactly the same thing happened to me today after work with my 1991 e30 320i. Got in the car plugged in imobilizer and it started fine, drove 50 metres and then it just cut out or lost. It started by up fine but then after 5mins of driving it cut out again. Again it started fine. Now parked up for the night.
The guy I bought it off told me that this had happened twice in the 16 years he had had it but said he thought it was the imobilizer plug being out when driving. I don't think the imobilizer has anything to do with it as it's been fine for the past 4 months I've had it.
The guy I bought it off told me that this had happened twice in the 16 years he had had it but said he thought it was the imobilizer plug being out when driving. I don't think the imobilizer has anything to do with it as it's been fine for the past 4 months I've had it.
- Brianmoooore
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Wire up a small lamp or LED between the + terminal of the ignition coil and earth, and position it somewhere you can see it.ajonesy wrote:Bit weird but exactly the same thing happened to me today after work with my 1991 e30 320i. Got in the car plugged in imobilizer and it started fine, drove 50 metres and then it just cut out or lost. It started by up fine but then after 5mins of driving it cut out again. Again it started fine. Now parked up for the night.
The guy I bought it off told me that this had happened twice in the 16 years he had had it but said he thought it was the imobilizer plug being out when driving. I don't think the imobilizer has anything to do with it as it's been fine for the past 4 months I've had it.
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DaveGT
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I've found a pump and relay, with any luck that'll be the end of the problem for the time being. I'll re-post when fitted!
Thanks for the help!!!!!
Thanks for the help!!!!!
Health and Safety Officer: "What would happen if a cameraman were to slip over?"
Clarkson: "Well, he'd probably have to stand back up again"
Clarkson: "Well, he'd probably have to stand back up again"
Cheers Bianmoooore, will try tomorrow.
Richy325iTouring mentioned in a different post that he fixed a similar problem yesterday by by changing the white relay? Is the white relay in the electrics of the engine bay? What would this do and how could it be the fix?
Richy325iTouring mentioned in a different post that he fixed a similar problem yesterday by by changing the white relay? Is the white relay in the electrics of the engine bay? What would this do and how could it be the fix?
- Brianmoooore
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White relay is the main DME (ECU) relay. Orange one is the fuel pump.
Trouble with random swapping of bits without first proving what the problem is, is that the part you change may not be the culprit, and might be faulty itself, and the faulty part may be temporarily repaired by disturbing it.
You then end up highly confused with a problem that you think you fix, then comes back again when the other faulty part starts acting up.
The art of successful fault finding is to prove exactly what the fault is without disturbing anything that might be relevant to the fault
Trouble with random swapping of bits without first proving what the problem is, is that the part you change may not be the culprit, and might be faulty itself, and the faulty part may be temporarily repaired by disturbing it.
You then end up highly confused with a problem that you think you fix, then comes back again when the other faulty part starts acting up.
The art of successful fault finding is to prove exactly what the fault is without disturbing anything that might be relevant to the fault
Sound similar to what mine is doing. Can drive fine for 5 mins/20 mins then out of the blue cut out completely. Doesnt always start up. Can take ages like today (3 times this morning). I have noticed it tends to do it when the temp outside is cold?
I thought and still do to a point that it is the idle control valve as that was buzzing, but not always. Unplugged that and replaced and it starts up (well sometimes anyway). Been told to clean it out ut dont know where to start to be honest.
Did your changing the DME relay fix it?
I thought and still do to a point that it is the idle control valve as that was buzzing, but not always. Unplugged that and replaced and it starts up (well sometimes anyway). Been told to clean it out ut dont know where to start to be honest.
Did your changing the DME relay fix it?
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munky30
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wise words indeed.Brianmoooore wrote:White relay is the main DME (ECU) relay. Orange one is the fuel pump.
Trouble with random swapping of bits without first proving what the problem is, is that the part you change may not be the culprit, and might be faulty itself, and the faulty part may be temporarily repaired by disturbing it.
You then end up highly confused with a problem that you think you fix, then comes back again when the other faulty part starts acting up.
The art of successful fault finding is to prove exactly what the fault is without disturbing anything that might be relevant to the fault
duke wrote: I could throw a spastic round a corner with better precision
crank sensor chaffing on water pump??? mine cut out intermittantely for ages before finally giving up the ghost
Only in the good lord we trust.. In everything else we check!!
1988 325i Tourer, Lowered, Deep Dish Alloys, Obc, Cruise Control, Heated Leather Sport Seats....
1988 325i Tourer, Lowered, Deep Dish Alloys, Obc, Cruise Control, Heated Leather Sport Seats....

