Hi guys,
Wondering what my next step is to maybe save spending money unnecessarily.
So the car was a 320 but now a 325.
Last summer was running fine, then started having to crank a bit longer on hot days after a 15 min drive.
It’s now got a off idle stumble, blip the throttle and it want to die. Occasionally it does but normally saves itself.
Idles fine, hot or cold.
Drives fine, although don’t have anything to compare to.
I checked plugs today and they sooty and some wetness.
I’m thinking leaky injectors?
I know no history of the engine/ injectors.
The 2.5 Afm I got has the red bung missing.
I don’t know if this might be causing a issue?
I smoked tested, got small bit from valve cover and a small bit from under the throttle body.
When I spay these areas with carb cleaner it has no effect on the idle.
Do I get a fuel pressure gauge?
Do I bite bullet and get injectors refurb/ new ones?
It’s had New blue and brown coolant sensors.
Am I missing anything else to check?
Running rich next step?
Moderator: martauto
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fixedwheelnut
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 906
- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: South East London
I would start by checking the signal from the blue temperature sensor to the DME control unit, it is common for the round wiring plug connecter under the inlet manifold to get corroded and affect the reading at the control unit.
I would still rectify the two air leaks as well.
Test the function of the fuel enrichment valve at the front of the fuel rail, ideally a fuel pressure gauge would help.
I would still rectify the two air leaks as well.
Test the function of the fuel enrichment valve at the front of the fuel rail, ideally a fuel pressure gauge would help.
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fixedwheelnut
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 906
- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: South East London
yes it is, the vacuum pipe can split causing it to run at the higher fuel pressure.
With the engine running fuel pressure should be 3.0 bar, under acceleration it should increase to 3.5 bar
With the engine running fuel pressure should be 3.0 bar, under acceleration it should increase to 3.5 bar
I inspected the c191 plug and all seems fine.
I’m getting good readings at the ecu from the blue sensor.
The brown coolant switch also seems to be operating as it should.
Other things I have noticed are charging voltage is 13.8
Also when running, unplugging the icv makes little to no difference in idle. Also when plugged back in it sometimes then stalls and cranks slightly longer to get going again.
The icv hums when engine off, and checked resistance across the pins is correct.
Don’t know if this changes things?
I’m getting good readings at the ecu from the blue sensor.
The brown coolant switch also seems to be operating as it should.
Other things I have noticed are charging voltage is 13.8
Also when running, unplugging the icv makes little to no difference in idle. Also when plugged back in it sometimes then stalls and cranks slightly longer to get going again.
The icv hums when engine off, and checked resistance across the pins is correct.
Don’t know if this changes things?
It's also worth checking tps readings, firstly at the tps, and then at the ecu plug to make sure the wiring is in good order.
There are many tests you can do with a multimeter to ensure the engine management is in good order and that readings are reaching the ecu plug.
Something else often overlooked is the snorkel or intake tube on the airbox. You should have a rubber tube and then a plastic surround that fits next to the headlight cover. It ensures the engine is getting the right flow of cold air.
There are many tests you can do with a multimeter to ensure the engine management is in good order and that readings are reaching the ecu plug.
Something else often overlooked is the snorkel or intake tube on the airbox. You should have a rubber tube and then a plastic surround that fits next to the headlight cover. It ensures the engine is getting the right flow of cold air.
Hi, thanks for the reply.
The rubber snorkel is off at the moment so I will reattach when I next test.
The valve cover was leaking massively yesterday, Worse than when I originally did it, so ordering that.
While the cover is off I’m going to send the injectors for service.
I shall test the tps next when the rain stops
The rubber snorkel is off at the moment so I will reattach when I next test.
The valve cover was leaking massively yesterday, Worse than when I originally did it, so ordering that.
While the cover is off I’m going to send the injectors for service.
I shall test the tps next when the rain stops
I’ve reset throttle plate, cable and lockdown cable.
Got new injectors, and done valve cover gasket and the rocker arm rubbers.
Annoyingly still leaks very slightly near the injectors. Not sure what else I can do about that.
Drives a lot better but still got the off idle hesitation.
Will test fuel pressure next and the tps readings next
Got new injectors, and done valve cover gasket and the rocker arm rubbers.
Annoyingly still leaks very slightly near the injectors. Not sure what else I can do about that.
Drives a lot better but still got the off idle hesitation.
Will test fuel pressure next and the tps readings next
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boiliebasher
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 269
- Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2014 11:00 pm
I had a similar problem with mine and sent my injectors off to be ultrasonically cleaned on the recommendation from the forum to InjectorTune.
Total waste of time and money. The guy was a complete idiot and despite me sending them back twice they still leaked.
In the end I just got different set of injectors which seemed to do the trick
Just because they've been "cleaned" from a so called professional don't assume they still don't leak....
The pintles were worn out on my injectors and this was predominantly causing starting issues. 20 mins after engine and fuel pump was turned off, injectors would leak, dropping fuel pressure to zero and thus taking it a few cranks longer to enable fuel pressures to rise sufficiently enough to reach the desired 3 bar.
Total waste of time and money. The guy was a complete idiot and despite me sending them back twice they still leaked.
In the end I just got different set of injectors which seemed to do the trick
Just because they've been "cleaned" from a so called professional don't assume they still don't leak....
The pintles were worn out on my injectors and this was predominantly causing starting issues. 20 mins after engine and fuel pump was turned off, injectors would leak, dropping fuel pressure to zero and thus taking it a few cranks longer to enable fuel pressures to rise sufficiently enough to reach the desired 3 bar.
I opted for brand new ones, with the updated pintels.
I’m glad I did! Has made a fair difference to car on the whole.
I shopped around and ended up getting 5 brand new ones for the cost of refurbing the 6 old ones.
I’ve recently had trouble with AUTODOC and I feel your pain when dealing with other people, and you don’t get what you expect or want.
I’m glad I did! Has made a fair difference to car on the whole.
I shopped around and ended up getting 5 brand new ones for the cost of refurbing the 6 old ones.
I’ve recently had trouble with AUTODOC and I feel your pain when dealing with other people, and you don’t get what you expect or want.